1952 stuck flathead

V

vernlee

Member
I bought a 52 F100 flathead complete engine but froze up , I pulled the heads cylinders and pistons look very good , very clean no carbon , I fought the valve removal for two weeks , finally got them out today what a JOB , put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and pop it freed up turns smooth and easy , I kinda assumed it was the valve train that was hanging everything up , now my question , should I go ahead a pull the oil pan and check everything , or just work on the top end with new valves , seats , springs ect .and go for it ? , motor still had clean oil in the original air cleaner and oil filter , crankcase oil looked good also , no signs of moister or anything , motor had been setting for 25 years , what do you think ?

Vern
 
vernlee said:
I bought a 52 F100 flathead complete engine but froze up , I pulled the heads cylinders and pistons look very good , very clean no carbon , I fought the valve removal for two weeks , finally got them out today what a JOB , put a socket on the crankshaft pulley and pop it freed up turns smooth and easy , I kinda assumed it was the valve train that was hanging everything up , now my question , should I go ahead a pull the oil pan and check everything , or just work on the top end with new valves , seats , springs ect .and go for it ? , motor still had clean oil in the original air cleaner and oil filter , crankcase oil looked good also , no signs of moister or anything , motor had been setting for 25 years , what do you think ?

Vern
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Hi Vern, now's the time to put all new parts in there? Not really all that expensive considering.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I would also put in some bronze-lined guides, they'll last forever and eliminate any chance of "hanging" a valve over time, been there, done it!
 
Some plastic gauge, rotate the motor and about 2 hours of your time is "Cheap" insurance both in not only the piece of mind of "knowing" BUT also making "SURE" everything is jam up and jelly tight!!!!
 
It has been my experience that the valve train is most likely the problem with a stuck flathead, cast iron valve guides and steel valves. oil drains out of the valve guides and rust sticks the valves to the guides. I would at the least pull the pan and check the connecting rods for wear with plastigauge . clean the oil pan/screen if they check ok and go for it!
 
the clean looking oil is an illusion. after a long time the dirt settles to the bottom of the pan, and the oil looks new again
 
Id hook up a battery and mechanical oil pressure gauge , change oil and check oil pressure while cranking . If good and you cant move the pistons down while each has just gone past TDC , id say , run it . Check after running for leaks = cracked block . Unless of course you have good supply of money for a rebuild.
 
Sounds like good advise from all , think at the very least I'll pull the pan and check the oil pickup screen and just have a look .
 
Plastigauge is a great invention. Rods and mains for sure. For the most part the engines I have checked were in excellent shape. It's a great feeling seeing that wide stripe when you remove the cap!
 
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