1952 F1 starting problem

jetrod

Member
Barners; My 51-F1 EAB/ 6 volt starter spins fast and starts fast when cold, after running for 10-15 miles won't spin fast enough to start, let it set for an hour and it's fine again. What is going on here???? Jerry
 
Barners; My 51-F1 EAB/ 6 volt starter spins fast and starts fast when cold, after running for 10-15 miles won't spin fast enough to start, let it set for an hour and it's fine again. What is going on here???? Jerry
Possibly caused by poor connections at the battery and ground connections. Thoroughly clean up all connections involved in the starter circuit. When this happens, check the battery cables for heat....
 
all connections are good--over size cables. It seems like the starter doesn't have as much torque when warm. ??? Jerry
 
A person might check the distributor to make sure the spark is going all the way back to retard the spark for starting. If the springs are bad or the plate is stuck at full advance then it might make it hard to start.

On a starter that is abnormally slow due to heat build up then it may have a bushing problem or an armature that has an open wire that opens further when it gets hot. It would take a growler and an ohm meter to find stuff like that but it may have to be warmed up to perform a test. I'd look for obvious signs of damage first and go from there. Turn the head lights on and see if the lights dim out during a difficult start. If they come back bright after the attempt then it could have a starter or a conductor cable problem. If the lights stay dim then I'd start checking the battery. Check grounds as well as feed conductors. The electrical pathway has to be good and clear for optimal starter function.
 
^ I agree on that stater commentary.

What shape is the coil in? I'm wondering if the spark you get when cold is the same as the spark you get when things are warm. (yes I'm aware the complaint is slow-cranking when warm.....)
 
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I'd also look at the starter. I had an "iffy" one in my '51 for years. It always started the car, but I was never confidant it was 100%. Last summer, I decided to change it out for a spare I had. The new starter solved all of the problems. I found that the original had a cold solder joint where one set of brushes were connected to the case.
 
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