1951 Ford F3 stroker questions

1951 Ford F3

Junior Member
I have a 1951 Ford F3. The engine was rebuilt within 5000 miles ago. I think the bore is 3.268. I want to build either a 4.125 or 4.250 stroker. I really do not want to machine the block and prefer just to install a stroker piston with a 3.268 bore.

I will source the Eagle crank and H beam rods from CNC machine. My next order of business would be to source a 3.268 piston or have the block machined again for 3.312 pistons.

Lastly, do the eagle rods require a bore notching to fit?

Oh an could I get away with just using the 3.75 stroke crank, adding a cam, 2 carbs, and machining the heads for a good driver? I know when I build drag bugs that the stroke makes all the difference.

As it is now, I may source the stroker crank and rods from CNC motorsports for a little over $1100 with 3/8ths rod bolts on a chevy journal

What say yee for a nice running 1951 Ford F3 with Borg and Warner 5 speeds , dual Strombergs, 236 effective at 050 .355 lift, 3.73 posi.
 
So it appears you have .080 over pistons - which I would think you could order an exact size to match from Ross, with whatever stroke you want. I would call Ross and ask for Ed in sales - he can help you out.

Having a longer stroke does provide more lower-end grunt - which sort of offsets the HP loss of a bigger cam . . . so I'd probably go with the stroker setup (I like spending your money!).

If you can, see if Ross can supply metric rings at that bore size - I like them a lot better than the old cast iron ones we all ran for years.
 
I ended up ordering an eagle 4.250 and some Scat rods. Some chromoly coated rings that are metric would be excellent. I am fairly certain that they are .080. I cleaned the tops of the pistons when the heads were off. Then again they could be .030 over. I am almost certain they are .080 over. If I can get the pistons, I wont have to tear it all apart and take it to the machine shop. I could just clean it in my parts washer and dingleberry hone it up.
 
I seriously doubt with that stroke that the rods are going to clear the block without some grinding using that bore size. I built a 4.250 stroker using Scat crank and rods and the rods just barely cleared with a 3 5/16” bore.
 
I ended up ordering an eagle 4.250 and some Scat rods. Some chromoly coated rings that are metric would be excellent. I am fairly certain that they are .080. I cleaned the tops of the pistons when the heads were off. Then again they could be .030 over. I am almost certain they are .080 over. If I can get the pistons, I wont have to tear it all apart and take it to the machine shop. I could just clean it in my parts washer and dingleberry hone it up.

Why not just measure the bore?
 
Yes, you could just throw it together . . . or you could have the whole rotating assembly balanced. Given this is all aftermarket stuff, the internal balance of the whole system is probably way off. I would have the rotating assembly balanced - no matter which piston size I ended up with.

Also, even though two pistons are marked the same for overbore - with one being a cast piston and another a forged piston, you really need to know your piston to cylinder wall clearances. They need to be correct for the type of piston you'll be using.
 
I cancelled the china crank order. I found a 4.125 stroker Merc crank that has already been ground and plugged. I do have to buy Scat H beam rods. What pistons should I get.
 
If your pistons are good, go with 'em. If you need new ones, I'd go to .125" over (3 5/16" bore).
 
I am just doing a low compression stroker. I have seen much of your excellent mechanical advice, but I have yet to hear anything related to a flathead 4 bolt main. Anyways, it will just be a low compression stroker with Merc cam and 74cc heads.
 
What's the application? that's a lot of money here!!! I'm in the process of building a 258, hi compression engine for the hills of vermont shoule have a lot of low end torque get good gas mileage, last forever and cost less than 3K
 
It is a nice torch red 51 F3. It is getting the following so I cn at least drive it into town here and there.

1. Ford explorer disc brake rear end 3.73
2. speedway front disc brakes
3 brake booster
4. dual strombergs
5. Borg and Warner 5 speed with adapter
6. 4.125 stroke crank'
7. H beam rods
8. Icon pistons 3.313
9. Delta camshaft 236 355 lift
10. Edelbrock heads
11. new valves, guides and springs

I will set the compression at about 8.5 to 1


It currently has a stock engine with between 10k and 20k that really just needs a cleaning, block surfacing, valve job, rings and bearings. I could leave it stock except for a nice cam and higher compression. It would have headers and dual strombergs with Mallory ignition. But, I have the crank. Part of me wants to just cut it for Speedway 3.750 stroke pistons, valve job , and a delta Cam. I want the 4.125 stroke so I can pull 5th gear on the highway. It wont see RPMs passed 4500 to 4700 max.


I will have between $3500 and $4000 into parts and machining.
 
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