1950 Tudor new front brake drums

Joe B.

Joe B.

Senior Member
If I want to install new front drums, is there a way to separate the drum from the hub, then install a new drum with new studs, with home tools? Nothing in the "Green Book" about this. I don't want to damage the hubs as they are hard to find. Thanks in advance.
 

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Joe B. said:
If I want to install new front drums, is there a way to separate the drum from the hub, then install a new drum with new studs, with home tools? Nothing in the "Green Book" about this. I don't want to damage the hubs as they are hard to find. Thanks in advance.
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I haven't done '50 Ford drums but I've done lots of others over the years. I take a brass hammer and put it on top of the stud and then hit it with a big steel hammer, one or two hits and the stud comes out. Then put the hub in the new drum and hit the studs back in using a heavy steel punch, the sound will change when the studs are driven in all the way. I spread the hits out among the studs until they are all in to prevent warping the drum. It's just the same as if you had a broken stud and needed to replace it, except you pound then all out. Be careful so that you don't warp the new drum beating them back in.
 
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glennpm said:
Joe, can ytou post a closeup of one of the studs on the outside of the drum?
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19Fordy said:
Joe, see the tack weld? Studs may already been replaced once.
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I do not have a good close up after cleaning. But, I can not tell if there is any peening. Hence my original question.


Fordy, I examined the drums very closely after a thorough cleaning and see no tack welds or anything else.
 

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My problem was a persistent pull left on braking. I tried adjusting, swapping, etc. until my face turned blue. The brakes looked good. So in August, I replaced the shoes (again), hardware, wheel cylinders and hoses, scuffed up the drums, which judging from the records I have are original, turned in the late 80's. Since then, the car is stopping straight, but it got me thinking about my original question. After lots of reading, I still don't have a definitive answer on the 1950's. Thanks for the links, Glenn.
 

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Joe B. said:
My problem was a persistent pull left on braking. I tried adjusting, swapping, etc. until my face turned blue. The brakes looked good. So in August, I replaced the shoes (again), hardware, wheel cylinders and hoses, scuffed up the drums, which judging from the records I have are original, turned in the late 80's. Since then, the car is stopping straight, but it got me thinking about my original question. After lots of reading, I still don't have a definitive answer on the 1950's. Thanks for the links, Glenn.
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I think that from 1949 and later that Ford started using the modern, ridged type bolts, moving away from the swedged type. Searching this morning I was able to confirm this after looking at this very informative link from the "Model A Garage", https://www.fordgarage.com/pages/swaging.htm

This shows a removed swedge type. A hole saw or special cutting mill, cuts the part of the stud that is deformed to fit into the chamfered hole in the drum.

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This is how the installed, deformed shoulder of the swedge studs appear when installed.

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and here is a modern type, what you have.

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To remove your studs, you need to back up the hub on the inside with a large pipe that either goes inside the stud flanges or just outside of them. You could get by with a large deep socket and do them one by one as long as you can get a good stable flatform for the drum. Put a nut on the stud and use a BFH or press to push them out. Doing this prevents bending the hub.
 
I was just going to give you the same advice as Glenn. A 20 doesn't take up much more room nor costs a lot more.
 
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