1950 ford custom/1990 ranger rear end install.

T

Terry Wilkerson

Member
I'm installing a1990 ranger rear end in my 50 ford custom. I have removed the shock mounts and spring perches on the ranger rear end. Ordered new perches to weld on.
I'm thinking of making a jig pattern off the stock rear end to locate the weld on perches. Is there an easier or better way to locate the new perches?
 
You need to focus more on your pinion angle.
Mark your axle at the distance the inside of the perch should sit then assemble the whole shebang and set your pinion angle then tack weld them perches to the axle. Take it all back out and weld up the perches a bit at a time allowing cooling between welds and apply paint
 
Ok so I checked pinion angle found trans 4 deg down, rear end 1 deg down. I think this is known as broke back pinion angle designed into the 50. Seems like a good time to fix this. I think I'll shoot for 2 to 3 deg up on the rear end.
 
Before you tack weld the perches, check the wheelbase on both sides; they should be the same. Also measure side to side to make sure it's in the middle.
 
I'm confused. I was under the impression that the correct geometry dictated that angles should be equal, offsetting each other. Why would you settle for 2º to 3º for the pinion when the transmission is 4º ?
 
ford38v8 said:
I'm confused. I was under the impression that the correct geometry dictated that angles should be equal, offsetting each other. Why would you settle for 2º to 3º for the pinion when the transmission is 4º ?
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There is much more to working out pinion angle. You need to allow for wrap which depending on your HP and suspension setup will change the pinion a few degrees under full load or cause axle bounce
 
ActionYobbo said:
There is much more to working out pinion angle. You need to allow for wrap which depending on your HP and suspension setup will change the pinion a few degrees under full load or cause axle bounce
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Good point. Henry Ford solved that problem with a torque tube.
 
The age of your original springs may account for the difference in angles. Prior to 1949, torque tubes prevented wrap, ensuring that angles remained equal.
 
You’re going to a lot of work to change the differential for what reason? If you were changing out the engine and transmission also, that might make sense.
 
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