1949 Merc bellhousing drill?

BillW810

Member
Any problem drilling through the trans mount hole and removing/drilling out that apparently spot welded doubler on the bellhousing on a 1949-53 Merc? The engine steady rod mounts through that hole. 8CM in a '39 Ford. On the '39 Ford that is a through hole. On the 8CM it is threaded and bottoms out. That "doubler" keeps the rod from fitting. I could cut and shorten the rod just looking at an option.
I have clutch chatter. I know it could be oil on clutch disc but Ford put those rods there on the '39 to stop the chatter. I do understand the cause.
The hot rodder in me says "Drill it out or remove it no rules in hot rodding." The backyard engineer in me says "Ford designed it that way for a reason."
 

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Bill, Before you proceed any further read all the thread posted below and the links that are included within it.
I have an 8BA in my 40 and made new steady rods to literally bolt to ears I welded on the stamped steel Merc bellhousing. You will also see some adapters in the thread. Make sure your clutch and brake pedals "clear" them.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291163&highlight=anti+chatter+rods+8ba

Thanks.
I thought I had searched around for answers..
:cool:A bracket like in the thread was another idea. You wouldn't happen to know if the guy in the pic is still around. I searched members he isn't listed under his name. Apparently he made some brackets. That was a few years ago may not still make them. Probably not a large volume item. I have limited tools, hacksaw to cut this, so it might be easier to buthanks,
Bill
 

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Radius rods were actually an after thought. When the motor mounts deteriorate, the torque tube would move the whole motor & drive assembly due to the spongy mounts. Ford redesigned the rear motor mount after the war and was confident that they didn't need radius rods with the new mount. The post war mount could and did get spongy with age and deterioration so their deletion of the rods was premature. If the car has open drive then it won't need any radius rods. A single radius rod kit was available from aftermarket sources for the post war Fords and they worked OK. Most folks fabricate radius rod mounts and rods when making custom applications as some of the other links illustrate.

The 1949 through early 1951 Mercury cars were the only ones to use the stamped steel half bell. Late 51 thru 53 have the cast iron full bell housing with the inspection cover on the bottom. Ford trucks used the cast iron half bell for light duty 3-speed applications.
 
Bill, I sent you a PM about a kit like this that I used on my 40.
Just make the threaded rod longer and you'll be fine. You cab buy the threaded rod at Home Depot or Lowes. This is a substitute for the OEM steady (anti-chatter) rods.
 

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