1946 front door assembly procedure

[SHORTDOOR]

I searched the threads and can't find a procedure on loading the bare doors. This car was totally disassembled when I acquired it. I have my green bible and all the parts. I see the drawing, but what have others done to put the glass, regulator, and the leading glass run stainless u channel in.

 

[Bruce_MO]

On my ‘46 Mercury, I put the glass in last. Regulator and door latch mechanism first, then channels and felt pieces. Then the glass. Obviously check for smooth operation and no binding. I used lots of white lithium grease on all the moving metal connections. I recall that the felt/stainless strips were really difficult and time consuming to install. The kit was from Vintique (sourced from Dennis Carpenter) and it was properly bent to fit, but I had to punch or drill all the holes for the clips. I had most of my original clips; replacement clips from Drake were too short and wouldn’t hold to the door frame. I used a few of the small Phillips screws that came from Vintique when I ran short of original clips.

 

[Bruce_MO]

I’ll add that the stainless divider at the front of the glass run has some allowance for adjustment. Holes in the inner door frame at the bottom are slotted, and the screw at the top goes thru a slotted tab at the top. So you’ll have some fore and aft movement in that glass channel. I pushed the vertical run back for a snug fit on the glass window, and tightened the screws and tested up/down motion for smooth action and no binding. Then tightened it all up permanently.

 

[SHORTDOOR]

Thanks Bruce MO. I got all the felts and "U" runs installed. But the real question was loading the door with all the goodies. After an hour and a half of trying different things, I got it! The other door took just 10 minutes! I will share. Stainless front of window guide through the rear hole of the "X" inner panel, feed it up and through the window opening. swing the bottom toward the hinge area. You can now load in the regulator. Secure it with the 5 screws. Now swing the stainless window guide bottom to the rear of the door, you now can slide the window bottom in and position it in the rear door guide while locating the stainless front guide in place. I did not need the 5 hands I thought I needed.

 

[Bruce_MO]

Lots of folks aren’t aware that there was approx. 1/8” welting between the door frame and the garnish moulding all along the garnish (except along the bottom of the moulding. See the picture of an original ‘46 Merc. My Merc was a pretty nice original car and it had the welting. I used the welting from Thirdgen Automotive and painted it gray with upholstery spray paint from SEM. Both the leading and trailing edges of the welt get tucked in behind the moulding near the bottom as shown in the photo. Most restorations leave it out, and it makes for a more finished appearance.

 

[petehoovie]

Lots of folks aren’t aware that there was approx. 1/8” welting between the door frame and the garnish moulding all along the garnish (except along the bottom of the moulding. See the picture of an original ‘46 Merc. My Merc was a pretty nice original car and it had the welting. I used the welting from Thirdgen Automotive and painted it gray with upholstery spray paint from SEM. Both the leading and trailing edges of the welt get tucked in behind the moulding near the bottom as shown in the photo. Most restorations leave it out, and it makes for a more finished appearance.