1945 Ford conversion Ignition Switch Replacement

[will.rynerson]

Hi guys,

I’m looking to replace my ignition switch. I need to get 12volt to the coil. The old switch is only allowing 5.6volts.

Anybody out there do this before and can you give me some suggestion on the switch replacement? I could really use that.

 

[Bob C]

Have you bypassed the resistor?

 

[will.rynerson]

Yes.

I’ve updated the wiring diagram I received to show how I have it currently. See attached. I found an aftermarket ignition that has three position. https://youtu.be/-9_TKao-prE
I purchased it and hooked it up, but I still no power to crank it.

 

[38 coupe]

The factory switch parts can be readily repaired by removing the cover on the back of the switch. New parts are available: https://thirdgenauto.com/product/ne...tion-switch-terminal-plate-and-contact-brush/

 

[will.rynerson]

Thank you I appreciate the link.if I go that direction I’ll probably need the entire ignition kit.

 

[will.rynerson]

I tested the battery straight to the aftermarket ignition and the coil Terminal gave me 12 Volts.

I didn’t ran a new wire dedicated to the coil from the original ignition switch terminal. I got 9.8 Volts.

So clearly it’s ignition switch on the back of the column. So thanks again for that link I will be investigating that now.

 

[Ken/Alabama]

Place a jumper wire across the Batt terminal and coil terminal on the old switch then check coil voltage. If you get 12 then I’d say the switch is dirty. Not uncommon with them. It can be taken apart and cleaned.

 

[Bob C]

Maybe you have the wrong solenoid. The original solenoid is an insulated base like #2. With the switch you have you need a grounded base like #1.

 

[petehoovie]

Maybe you have the wrong solenoid. The original solenoid is an insulated base like #2. With the switch you have you need a grounded base like #1.