Hi Guys, just wondering if anyone can give me some direction to understand the distributor on my "41. It's stock, but I'm not familiar with this type of distributor. I'd just like to see some pictures of the assembly, how to change/adjust points and timing. My hands on engine experience didn't start until about '55, so I don't even know how to tune/time this puppy. Would like to find an article that explains tuning and specs. Also with regard to the ignition, if I choose to convert to 12v., neg. ground, do I just need to replace the coil with a 12v. unit? It runs fine so I wouldn't touch the points or timing. Thanks for any help...
1941 Ford flathead distributor
- Thread starter olguy
- Start date
petehoovie
Well-known member
Watch these videos > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnNbT8KV9HQ
and > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRt7ubyqa7o
and > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRt7ubyqa7o
For starters this dustributor us a complex little pup. It’s taken me years if messing with mine to get a bit of a handle on it. First if you do pull it pay really close attention to the plug wire connections and number 2 is be extr extra extra careful mounting it back in the car as it is very easy to crack the case because it sits in an offset slit on the cam. Watch those videos and before you pull yours buy an old one to tear apart
Jack E/NJ
Well-known member
Enjoy the Diving Helmet distributor I always look at the design of this contraption and wonder 'what were them Ford injuneers thinking?' http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_engine-pics/Flathead_Distributor_1937to41.JPG
fortyonerag
Well-known member
I just rebuilt the one on my 41 and it was a satisfying project.
It's pretty straightforward if you can forget other distributors you may have worked on.
It's pretty straightforward if you can forget other distributors you may have worked on.
corvette8n
Well-known member
Send your distributor to
Charlie Schwendler
Orchard Park, N.Y.
716 662-9159
The one on my ‘41 had a bent shaft and he machined it straight and made a bushing for it, now it runs like a top. Switching to 12 volts means changing lights, doing something about the gauges, starter and generator swap etc., usually more work than what’s it’s worth.
Charlie Schwendler
Orchard Park, N.Y.
716 662-9159
The one on my ‘41 had a bent shaft and he machined it straight and made a bushing for it, now it runs like a top. Switching to 12 volts means changing lights, doing something about the gauges, starter and generator swap etc., usually more work than what’s it’s worth.
I rebuilt one I purchased used for my C59A engine rebuild. Got rid of the crab style which many prefer, but I really like the oddity of the helmet. Lots of info on here, I think I have a fairly detailed thread on here of my rebuild. There is not much adjustment other than changing some internals and playing a bit with the advance brake mechanism IIRC. Here’s a recent pic of my build with the helmet. This thing is so cool looking IMHO and I’m glad I went ahead with the swap.
Attachments
petehoovie
Well-known member
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The 11A distributor is the last of it's design type. 1942 changed over to the original crab type (due to the cap used). After the war, they used a complicated distributor cap that is referred to as the rabbit ear design but the crab type cap can still be used.
The 11A distributor had the new advance flyweight unit that allowed a few more degrees of advance. Each year Ford published a new owner's manual for Ford's different model types. These instruction books have a procedure of using a steel rule to set up the timing and it's not all that difficult. There is no other adjustment to them except adjusting the gaps on the two sets of points and tension on the vacuum brake, which is rarely ever needed.
It's not a bad idea to pull them off every couple of years to put some oil on things and make sure the flyweights & vacuum brake are functioning normally. Other than that, they don't need a lot of maintenance. If a person finds burned points then you know it's time for a new condenser. They have two sets of points to extend the dwell time for the coil.
This is a Mallory design that was also subjected to Ford engineering scrutiny. Mallory made all of Ford V8s ignition components till the Holley design took over in 1948/49 with the 8BA family of engines.
The 11A distributor had the new advance flyweight unit that allowed a few more degrees of advance. Each year Ford published a new owner's manual for Ford's different model types. These instruction books have a procedure of using a steel rule to set up the timing and it's not all that difficult. There is no other adjustment to them except adjusting the gaps on the two sets of points and tension on the vacuum brake, which is rarely ever needed.
It's not a bad idea to pull them off every couple of years to put some oil on things and make sure the flyweights & vacuum brake are functioning normally. Other than that, they don't need a lot of maintenance. If a person finds burned points then you know it's time for a new condenser. They have two sets of points to extend the dwell time for the coil.
This is a Mallory design that was also subjected to Ford engineering scrutiny. Mallory made all of Ford V8s ignition components till the Holley design took over in 1948/49 with the 8BA family of engines.
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tubman
Well-known member
Check out this thread. I know Murre well, and he is an expert engine builder : https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=261218&highlight=stromberg.
tubman
Well-known member
I noticed he was on on April 11 of this year. I sent him an email last night, but nothing so far. He used to come to Paynesville, Minnesota every year (his dad's hometown) and fill a couple of containers with parts (that I would consider junk) and take them back to Europe and sell. I met him three times (once in Breezy point and twice in Paynesville). He is a very skilled and knowledgeable guy. I think he does repair work on large, ocean going vessel power plants and is buried in work.
SoCalCoupe
Well-known member
No expert here, but from following the FordBarn for a year and half, consensus seems to be that the helmet distributor is a solidly reliable piece of equipment. Some complaints about aftermarket points, condensers and coils though. Even though my helmet distributor was running fine with a modern coil conversion kit, I purchased two Skip Haney, better than new rebuilt coils, two Tubman condensers, and two sets of NOS points. If possible, my ignition is even stronger than before. Not seeing any reason I'll ever change it and I should be set for quite a while with my miniature set of spares. BTW, it's all 6 volt.
SoCalCoupe
Well-known member
Been having some momentary hiccups on moderate/heavy acceleration. Seems more like ignition than carburetor. At idle sounds like I'm hearing some sparking from the distributor.
Car runs really strong except for the hiccups. As above, have a new Tubman condenser and new Skip Haney coil. Ignition circuit from battery to switch to coil, including ignition resistor, seems good. Got brave and pulled the distributor. Mechanically everything looks good and all contact points look good. It's a PITA but the points are definitely less than .012" gap. Setting them by gap also looks like a PITA.
I've looked all the available timing fixtures on eBay, FordBarn and H.A.M.B., none of them are my dream but a couple are serviceable.
What's the trick? Looking at the screws, where do you loosen and where do you turn to adjust? Looks like the one on the far right with the star washer loosens the points. Is the one next to it without the star washer a cam to minutely adjust the gap? What's the tall "screw" more to the left? Looks REALLY hard to do this with a screwdriver and a feeler gauge.
Thoughts?
Car runs really strong except for the hiccups. As above, have a new Tubman condenser and new Skip Haney coil. Ignition circuit from battery to switch to coil, including ignition resistor, seems good. Got brave and pulled the distributor. Mechanically everything looks good and all contact points look good. It's a PITA but the points are definitely less than .012" gap. Setting them by gap also looks like a PITA.
I've looked all the available timing fixtures on eBay, FordBarn and H.A.M.B., none of them are my dream but a couple are serviceable.
What's the trick? Looking at the screws, where do you loosen and where do you turn to adjust? Looks like the one on the far right with the star washer loosens the points. Is the one next to it without the star washer a cam to minutely adjust the gap? What's the tall "screw" more to the left? Looks REALLY hard to do this with a screwdriver and a feeler gauge.
Thoughts?
