1941 1 Ton bed
- Thread starter 411Ton
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GB SISSON
Well-known member
I have made a new bed front panel with 11 gauge steel and a length of 3/4" black pipe welded to the top. It did not have the indented ribs, but that did not matter to me. I have also used 3/4" pipe for the bottom of tailgates twice on recent tonner builds. After welding and priming I created a fillet of polyurethane sealant so the part looked formed. 3/4" pipe is close to 1" OD.
pistonbroke
Well-known member
You might also look at ridged steel electrical conduit. The pressed side panels will be the hardest to make. Being a welder I would lean towards splicing two short bed sides togather but I think 1tons were taller sides as well as longer. Tim
Did you use 11 gauge because you wanted it stronger? I thought the beds were 16 gauge? I was imagining to use a long pipe, tack weld the sheet and just hammer over and remove the pipe...
fortunately, the sides of my bed are OK, its just the front. And the 8' bed front, sides, tailgate and pockets are different from the 6' bed too, and no one repro's any of it
ActionYobbo
Senior Member
For the front panel on my 39 1 ton I used the roof from a 94 E150 ford van to make the repair panel. The ribs are a close enough to look the part. I would not attempt to make the sides. Doing the front panel repair and the bottom of the tail gate recreation and all the rust repairs on the bed sides was a major job. I feel your pain. The beds do come up for sale now and then. After almost 2 years of searching and finding beds on the other side of the universe and priced in the thousands I got lucky and picked up a rusty bed with tailgate only 5 hours drive away for $400
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what a deal. I'd be all over that too! I have a sheet of 16 gauge, and new 36" bead roller, and I can make the front panel without much problem. that damn 1" roll is a stymie for the time being.
OldGold360
Well-known member
If you have any metalworking companies near you (or within a reasonable distance) that has a press brake with the size and tonnage capacity, you may want to reach out to them. It is possible they may have the tooling to form these panels for you. You'll want to ask if they have "curling dies" and hopefully in the size you want. If they do, this is an easy job for them.
If not, you may reach out to some metalshaping shops that have specialty equipment that would be able to perform this work. I have created similar closed profiles using my erco flanger and pullmax. It is more work than curling dies in a press brake, but results can be similar if the operator knows what they are doing, but this probably isn't a good option if you are wanting them formed in 11 gauge. I do agree that 11 gauge is really thick for what you're building.
Good Luck!
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GB SISSON
Well-known member
I used 11 gauge because I had it AND because it's stronger. I really think there is a pretty good argument in your particular part for welding a piece of pipe/tubing/conduit onto your 16 gauge new panel. 1) the rolled round section dies into the 45 degree flare so you cannot see the wall thickness. 2) The majority of the weld would be hidden by the cab. 3) It's a one ton pickup and while that happens to be my favorite type of vehicle of all the old fords, it just doesn't seem worth the money to me to have it custom rolled. But.....Rawlir,Revenski and Expaver have all built stunning examples of tonner pickups, so I will close with my advice just being my $.002worth.
OldGold360
Well-known member
Even if you went the welded route, why would anyone use pipe or conduit when you can just buy steel tubing in whatever size and thickness you want? Plus it won’t be coated with things that are horrible for you when welding it.
Thanks! I'd never heard of curling dies, but clearly that seems to be what I"m looking for. Now to research and see where I could get that done!
thanks for the suggestions!
GB SISSON
Well-known member
Because I have run a cabinet shop for over 40 years and now have a bunch of pipe clamps that use 3/4" black pipe(not galvanized). The clamps, up to 10' long now go unused for the most part. I also live on an island where we can't buy tubing so it's a trip to the mainland or go online and order a length of storebought tubing, and then wait. I do have a pretty good supply of thin walled tubing I bring home from the dump, but since I'm not a very good welder I think I'd burn through when welding to the 11 gauge. OldGold, I have never seen such amazinly beautiful reproduction parts as what you share here. You are a metalworker among metalworkers, and I'm even in awe of your photography as you present them on the forum. I just enjoy using found materials to fix my beater trucks. You had to ask
GB SISSON
Well-known member
Oh great, now I see revenski has chimed in a few minutes ago. Now my repairs are really gonna look bad, but here goes. I found two pictures on my phone of tonner tailgates that have an old pipe clamp for a bottom tube. Perfect for the guy that is prone to overloading his trucks, but certainly not for everyone.
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Ray in La Mesa
Well-known member
OK, I give Gary, what is the fan/motor in the back of your red truck?
GB SISSON
Well-known member
Never seen an Aerothrust bicycle attachment? Mine isn't completely original as I've hidden a kawasaki coil under the crankcase. Starts easily though. 2 stroke opposed twin, about 1920.The ad shows the smaller version with a vertical single cylinder. I'll show it off sometime here, but it's pretty off topic and this thread is about bed repairs.
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OldGold360
Well-known member
Because I have run a cabinet shop for over 40 years and now have a bunch of pipe clamps that use 3/4" black pipe(not galvanized). The clamps, up to 10' long now go unused for the most part. I also live on an island where we can't buy tubing so it's a trip to the mainland or go online and order a length of storebought tubing, and then wait. I do have a pretty good supply of thin walled tubing I bring home from the dump, but since I'm not a very good welder I think I'd burn through when welding to the 11 gauge. OldGold, I have never seen such amazinly beautiful reproduction parts as what you share here. You are a metalworker among metalworkers, and I'm even in awe of your photography as you present them on the forum. I just enjoy using found materials to fix my beater trucks. You had to ask
Ha! I completely understand and appreciate your response as well as your ingenuity. There is nothing wrong with using materials that you have on hand, as long as it is not dangerous. I have a friend that used pipe rather than tubing to make a roll cage for his race jeep. This is not recommended due to the differences in material. Also, I hope you know that my question was merely curiosity and not criticism. Thank you for the kind compliments.
GB SISSON
Well-known member
Oldgold, I get it that you get it. I'm nearing 50 years on this rock and if it wasn't for salvaged steel and auto parts I woulda been SOL in the old vehicle 'hobby'. We are both well versed in what we do, we just work to different standards, and both of us are happy with our results. I call that a perfect situation.
rawlir
Senior Member
Amigos,
Been following Tonner trucks around the US for some time now....boxes, rear fenders, tgates, running boards, wheels are virtually impossible to find, very difficult for folks to carry the restorations on...kinda sad. We need new blood....Have a great balance of 2024, all!!
Been following Tonner trucks around the US for some time now....boxes, rear fenders, tgates, running boards, wheels are virtually impossible to find, very difficult for folks to carry the restorations on...kinda sad. We need new blood....Have a great balance of 2024, all!!
OldGold360
Well-known member
Well said!