1940 windshield garnish install

4d fjord

Junior Member
Which goes in first, the center divider bar or the moldings? I don't want to fumble around and scratch something by doing it wrong the first time. (my usual method) Thanks.
 
Which goes in first, the center divider bar or the moldings? I don't want to fumble around and scratch something by doing it wrong the first time. (my usual method) Thanks.

Right and left moldings, THEN the center molding.
 
My 40 garnish molding used straight slotted screws. Be sure to cover the tip of the screwdriver blade with electrical tape to have a better fit and avoid slipping and scratching by screw driver. They are just SNUG. Don't overtighten and deform the molding. Being anal, I made sure the screw slots all faced in the same direction. Of course, Ford did not do this. Also, don't forget to install the welting between the top of dash and garnish molding.
 

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My 40 garnish molding used straight slotted screws. Be sure to cover the tip of the screwdriver blade with electrical tape to have a better fit and avoid slipping and scratching by screw driver. They are just SNUG. Don't overtighten and deform the molding. Being anal, I made sure the screw slots all faced in the same direction. Of course, Ford did not do this. Also, don't forget to install the welting between the top of dash and garnish molding.
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Which goes in first, the center divider bar or the moldings? I don't want to fumble around and scratch something by doing it wrong the first time. (my usual method) Thanks.

Keep in mind the welt is an 1/8" bead, half the diameter of fender welt. Mike Driskell, I believe, sells it. The welt is the same color as the instrument panel as you can detect in my photos. Not certain what model you are working on so attached photos of two of mine...
The screws are slotted as has been mentioned. Most guys use stainless these days. Oval head, not flat.
 

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4d:Just to Kube's dashes are georgeous. Just to add a little more info: Here is what the dash welting looks like - 2 1/8 beads sewn together that tuck in behind and between the dash and the molding. No fasteners used. I needed a maroon piece. I think I still have this brown piece of welting that I never used, if you need it. I would have to do a house search. You could also get an upholstery shop to make you the same piece. That little maroon plastic button covers the antennae hole.
 

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4d:Just to Kube's dashes are georgeous. Just to add a little more info: Here is what the dash welting looks like - 2 1/8 beads sewn together that tuck in behind and between the dash and the molding. No fasteners used. I needed a maroon piece. I think I still have this brown piece of welting that I never used, if you need it. I would have to do a house search. You could also get an upholstery shop to make you the same piece. That little maroon plastic button covers the antennae hole.

And to add even more :)

The two beads were done to expedite installation. Not really necessary for me as I do one car and well, maybe another in a year.
Installing a zillion (a certain exaggeration) each day on a fast-moving assembly line required this double bead.
I am 99% certain Driskell makes the double bead stuff.
 
4d:Just to Kube's dashes are georgeous. Just to add a little more info: Here is what the dash welting looks like - 2 1/8 beads sewn together that tuck in behind and between the dash and the molding. No fasteners used.
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Kube and others,
How do the two beads expedite installation and when installed, do BOTH beads show or does the inner most one tuck under the garnish and the outer one show?
 
Kube and others,
How do the two beads expedite installation and when installed, do BOTH beads show or does the inner most one tuck under the garnish and the outer one show?

One bead was tucked under the molding. The molding then held the welt in the exact position needed for a nice installation. An installer would have "wrapped" a molding, pushed it all in place and installed the screws.
 
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