I'm back to the windshield again. Does the headliner AND tacking strip have to be removed to provide room for the seal and glass from the inside? Kube's book states the windshield is a loose fit and is held in by the garnish. I certainly am not encountering a loose fit. Am I doing something wrong? Thanks
1940 windsheild install
- Thread starter 4d fjord
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19Fordy
Well-known member
As I recall, the answer to your question is NO. The headliner and tacking strip DO NOT have to be removed to install the glass. Another reason I say NO is because suppose your glass and rubber seal was already installed and later on the windshield had to be replaced. It doesn't make sense that the tacking strip for the headliner would also have to be removed in order to install the new windshield because that may damage your headliner unnecessarily, creating more problems and making the job more difficult. I found that the windshield is definitely NOT a loose fit and is held in place mainly by the windshield rubber. The garnish molding just covers it all up and makes it look nice.
Here is an excellent video that will really help. I installed my windshield the same way as the video.
https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...7C7B074D204FE0E154FD7C7B074D204FE&FORM=VAMGZC
Here is an excellent video that will really help. I installed my windshield the same way as the video.
https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...7C7B074D204FE0E154FD7C7B074D204FE&FORM=VAMGZC
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I was thinking that same thing all along. Windshield replacement should be fairly routine on older vehicles and not require tearing up the upholstery. I have watched that video at least 5 times and I can't figure out why I don't have the clearance to fit the glass and seal assembly close to the pinch weld so I can rope it in. Thanks Jim
19Fordy
Well-known member
When you install JUST the rubber seal, does it fit nicely without the glass?
Then, when you try to install the rubber and the windshield (like in the video) where exactly does it "get stuck"?
This is a crazy idea but could it be that there are points along the pinch weld that are "higher or lower" and NOT in the same 180 degree plane. ?
If you lay the windshield glass on top of the pinch weld does it rest fully on the pinch weld all the way around the window or are there some gaps?
Silly question: Was there a windshield already installed in this car when you bought it?
I know it's driving you nuts but, don't do anything rash as glass doesn't bend too easily.
Then, when you try to install the rubber and the windshield (like in the video) where exactly does it "get stuck"?
This is a crazy idea but could it be that there are points along the pinch weld that are "higher or lower" and NOT in the same 180 degree plane. ?
If you lay the windshield glass on top of the pinch weld does it rest fully on the pinch weld all the way around the window or are there some gaps?
Silly question: Was there a windshield already installed in this car when you bought it?
I know it's driving you nuts but, don't do anything rash as glass doesn't bend too easily.
Kube
Super Moderator
Apparently, you are working on a closed body style.
Any reference I may have made to a "loose fit" in my book (I can't recall) would have been for the convertible coupe.
Okay, the tack strip does not get disturbed nor does the headliner.
My first concern is the glass you have. Where did you get it? I have seen some cut straight along the bottom edge which not only will make it quite difficult to install, sooner, rather than later, the glass is likely to crack from the bottom.
The bottom edge has a definite curve.
When installing the glass, use a lot of glass cleaner as lubricant.
I use .060" diameter nylon thread to aid the installation. When you install the nylon thread into the rubber gasket, it should be planned so the last place you install / remove the thread, is at a corner.
Any reference I may have made to a "loose fit" in my book (I can't recall) would have been for the convertible coupe.
Okay, the tack strip does not get disturbed nor does the headliner.
My first concern is the glass you have. Where did you get it? I have seen some cut straight along the bottom edge which not only will make it quite difficult to install, sooner, rather than later, the glass is likely to crack from the bottom.
The bottom edge has a definite curve.
When installing the glass, use a lot of glass cleaner as lubricant.
I use .060" diameter nylon thread to aid the installation. When you install the nylon thread into the rubber gasket, it should be planned so the last place you install / remove the thread, is at a corner.
19Fordy
Well-known member
Wow, Kube makes a great point. I bet your glass was cut flat along the bottom edge.
Please let us know what you discover.
Just curious: How thick is your glass?
I don't know if these photos will help.
Also, I don't know but, did the stock OEM 1940 windshield glass have a tint? Or, was it 100% clear.
Please let us know what you discover.
Just curious: How thick is your glass?
I don't know if these photos will help.
Also, I don't know but, did the stock OEM 1940 windshield glass have a tint? Or, was it 100% clear.
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Kube
Super Moderator
100% clear
Thanks, guys, for the valuable information. I haven't been able to work on the car the last couple of days. You raise some good points and I am going out there later as soon as I can to check and recheck these items. I will post my findings later. I try not to be too much of a bother but this coupe really frustrates me at times Thanks again for offering your experience and knowledge.
Kube
Super Moderator
Rest assured you are never a bother. There are a number of good guys on this forum that are happy to share what they have learned.
Frustrated, are ya? Welcome to the club! You are now an official member
I checked over the potential problem areas The new glass (Auto Glassics) matches my old glass perfectly in size and thickness and has the curve on the bottom. I'm using Drake seals as well as the Drake rope install tool. The surface of the pinch weld is flat and basically smooth. What I did find is that when I try to fit the glass and seal assembly to opening it was hitting on the tacks for the headliner. A lot of them were so loose I could pull them out with my fingers. I removed all the tacks, cleaned it all up, but left the tack strip in place and tucked the headliner out of the way. I tried a quick test fit, and the top still hits but just slightly. I think when the bottom part of the seal is in place and everything is lubed up, I will hopefully succeed. Hopefully I can recruit my wife to help me tomorrow and see what happens. If it doesn't work out, I can always blame her. HA! Thanks, Kube and thanks for the pics and all 19Fordy
Kube
Super Moderator
I think you are on the correct path. If your wife is willing, I have found it easier if a person puts a little pressure on the glass from the inside.
Don't be shy with the glass cleaner. The nice thing about glass cleaner is it will dry and won't later suds.
Well, it didn't go well again. Either I'm doing something wrong or I need to try a different brand of seal. I don't have much faith in that Taiwan rubber. I started by using the rope tool from Drake and when I got to the first corner it began binding again. Everything seemed so tight. So, I dug out my nylon rope from way back that I used for truck rear glass, motorhome glass and custom van windows. It is about half the diameter of the Drake rope. It seemed to give me a little more room, but I still managed to ruin the seal. I wanted to see if the glass would in fact fit and it did go in place. The edge of the seal that touches the rope is so thin and tender and tears easily.
Has anyone used the windshield seals sold by Steele? I guess I could start looking for a pro glass guy to come out but it would be a long drive and finding one that would tackle this may be difficult. Any more ideas on what I'm doing wrong? I might have to do like the one guy posted a while back and get out my goggles.
Has anyone used the windshield seals sold by Steele? I guess I could start looking for a pro glass guy to come out but it would be a long drive and finding one that would tackle this may be difficult. Any more ideas on what I'm doing wrong? I might have to do like the one guy posted a while back and get out my goggles.
Kube
Super Moderator
The last closed car I did was three years ago. At the time, the Carpenter front windshield seals were superior and the Drake rear windshield seals were best for that position.
You are not alone in the "ripping the seal" club.
LOTS of glass cleaner... WET.
19Fordy
Well-known member
Could it be that you're not pushing the glass from the inside enough for rope to squeeze between the edge of the seal and the metal flange. When I did mine I used a piece of thin strand of cotton string plus dish soap along the inside edge of the rubber. Had to push the corners of the seal pretty hard.
Kube
Super Moderator
Nope, not that I'm aware of.
My friend Kent, who has operated the most respected glass shop in this area for decades told me about the glass cleaner "trick" years ago.
I'm going to have to learn how to post photos. I'll have to get wife to show me how. She has the smart phone; I only have a not so smart flip phone. I'm too rough on expensive phones. I'm not sure I know what you mean about where I pull the string. Is there a special way to pull the string? It goes fine until I get to the corner, then it starts to bind up. I've done these types of windows (install using string) long ago and never had a problem. I was thinking I was putting too much pressure from the inside, but I guess maybe not. I've got a Carpenter seal on the way and I'm hoping that outside feather edge will be more durable. Thanks, guys, for taking an interest in my dilemma. I'll keep updating.