1940 Front Brake Drums

mike42

mike42

Well-known member
Good morning .....

I'll be reworking my '40 brakes soon and if the drums must be replaced......who is recommended for good drums. I guess I mean NON-China stuff !

Thx....Mike
 
mike42 said:
Good morning .....

I'll be reworking my '40 brakes soon and if the drums must be replaced......who is recommended for good drums. I guess I mean NON-China stuff !

Thx....Mike
Click to expand...

Hey Mike....Realistically, you have two QUALITY choices. The simplest, yet most-costly would be to send (or take) your drum/hub assemblies to:

https://www.jgrelining.com/

They're located in McHenry, Illinois, about 50 miles northwest of downtown Chicago....not TOO far down the road from you, and their work is superb. They will machine your old drums for fitting new, cast-iron liners. Your drums are cosmetically restored to 'like-nu', and they have the capability of 'arcing' your shoes to the new drum surfaces. Their web site is extensive. Go over it thoroughly!

Your other choice is MT CAR PRODUCTS/Boling Bros. replacement drums. They are beautiful, high-quality American-made works of art. They cost about $135/ea., but their use requires the old drum to be removed from the Ford hub by cutting the shoulder on each of the five swaged wheel studs which hold the drum and hub together. Not a process to be taken lightly, but with careful planning and a few necessary tools, the 'right' guy can do it at home. The original factory-style studs are essentially non-obtainable any more. There is a recommended stud which is widely-available which must be pressed-in to the hub flanges after reaming each of the five holes to the recommended size. From then on, the drum is easily removable from the hub like more-modern drum/hub assemblies. Quite a few guys on the forum here using these MT PRODUCTS drums. "Krylon32" here on the forum is one of several dealers for "MT" stuff, and he OFFERS (I believe 10%) A DISCOUNT to 'Barn members! DD

New "MT Products" Drum below

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I was happy with using stock F1 studs. I also had good results using a 9/16in deep hole saw. I did not use the drill in the hole saw holder. It cut the swedges without hurting the hub. You do not need the carbide tip saw. The cheap one cut great.
 
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