1940 Ford V8 Wouldn't Start

C

Capuano

Member
Electric fuel pump provides fuel to carburetor. Put inline spark checker on plug 1 and saw spark was occurring. Possibly dirty carburetor. Tried gum out in carburetor throat. I am considering removing carb and have a professional clean or send to MAC for a rebuild.comments
 
Capuano said:
Electric fuel pump provides fuel to carburetor. Put inline spark checker on plug 1 and saw spark was occurring. Possibly dirty carburetor. Tried gum out in carburetor throat. I am considering removing carb and have a professional clean or send to MAC for a rebuild.comments
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IF you are going to have the carb rebuilt, send it to CharlieNY here on the barn OR to Mike at Third Gen Automotive, Charlie is having cataract surgery tomorrow SO he may be a little delayed IF you are in a great hurry!!!
 
Gentlemen, thank you for responding. I sprayed acetone and poured gasoline in the carburetor throat. It didn't even fire up or start. I checked the number one spark plug after this and it was completely dry. My next step will be to have the carburetor repaired I assume since it does not appear fuel vapor is getting into the manifold. Comments would be appreciated if this makes sense,
 
It should have sputtered at least, or maybe even ran for a few seconds on gas poured down the carburetor. Doesn't sound like a carb problem to me.
 
Again thanks for the response. As I said previously the electric fuel pump is supplying fuel to the carb. I checked the spark with an inline spark checker on plug 1 and it was working. After spraying the acetone and putting gasoline in the carb throat no sputtering even. Checked the number one plug and it was dry.
 
I hear ya. I think the number one plug is too far from the carburetor to be wet from pouring some gas down the the carb, unless you really poured way too much in there.

You've verified you have fuel, even put fuel right into the engine bypassing the carb, and still not even a sputter. Not sure why you still think it's a fuel delivery problem.

I take it the car was running fine until recently?
 
With the air cleaner removed, actuate the throttle to see if there is a squirt of fuel from the crossbar nozzles inside the air horn. If no squirt, remove the air horn itself, and see if there is fuel in the reservoir. If there is fuel in the reservoir, determine if there is debris clogging the two main jets. Please post the results of your investigation, and we'll take it from there.
 
Again, thank you gentlemen. I am afraid I may have confused some. I poured gasoline and sprayed acetone in the throat of the carb not the intake manifold. I will try as a neophyte as Ford38v8 suggested.
 
To Ford38v8 and CharlieNY.

I operated throttle at carb. No squirts. Removed air horn and the bowl was completely dry. Checked gas flow at the carb and it was OK. When actuating the float the shut off valve did not move. It is either stuck open or closed.

At this point because the carb is over 80 old same as me. I do not see a rebuild. I am considering either a MAC rebuild or complete new carb. Present is Ford model 91-99 carb for my 1940 Ford. Hopefully the replacement carbs have the same connections for the choke and throttle.

Comment would be appreciated. Gas appears to have small particles. Had difficulty with this gas station on the quality of gas for the car and my gas lawn power equipment.
 
I think most on this forum would advise against buying a new aftermarket part, if your original part can be rebuilt by one of the know quality rebuilders. That would apply to the carburetor too. Charlie NY is known for excellent carburetor rebuilds.
 
Capuano, just to be sure you understand the terms. A rebuild like is being suggested by the previous post involves a complete rework of the carburetor, not just cleaning and installing a kit of some kind. What you get back will look like a new carburetor except it will be much better.
 
I would run a "Charlie ny" rebuilt before any new carb out there. Period.

New (mass produced) ain't better than rebuilt (done by a true craftsman).
 
These carbs are so simple, you can do it yourself, get a carb kit from Daytona Parts and a can of brake cleaner, will need a little air to make sure passages are clear.
 
fortyfords said:
These carbs are so simple, you can do it yourself, get a carb kit from Daytona Parts and a can of brake cleaner, will need a little air to make sure passages are clear.
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That's what I thought as well. The first time I did it, the car ran worse with the rebuilt than with the original (I had installed a leaky power valve). The simpler it is, the more difficult it is to do everything right.
 
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