1940 Ford Running Board Covers

Don't worry guys. It's not that difficult. As has been said DO NOT pull or stretch the covers when installing. Also, do not install them outside in the hot sun as the rubber will stretch. Just let the covers lay down.
 
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I've never done the 1939/40 running boards but I am aware that FoMoCo had the rubber vulcanized on most all of the cars after 1932 or so. The metal of the boards was originally prepped to hold or grip the rubber material better during the vulcanizing process. I was curious to those in the know of just how rough the metal is on the 39/40 models after you get all the old rubber off?

I've used a lot of different metal based fillers from Aluma-Lead to Metal 2 Metal and even Devcon plastic steel. These fillers have a difficulty factor to them that surpasses any type of normal filler material. My reason for wondering about the board texture is just to question how much filler will be needed to smooth them out. After the covers are on, the boards are fairly well water proofed and any good Rage filler or maybe Duraglass should work OK depending on how thick it is. Generally, it's the condition of the underlying metal that caused delamination of the filler materials with time. Strong changes in temperature and exposure to sun & weather also take there toll.
 
I have a set of 41 covers to install. I was thinking maybe construction adhesive would work better than contact cement. Anyone have trouble with contact cement letting loose in the hot sun?
 
Rubber, whether natural or synthetic, usually needs a rubber cement or contact adhesive like super weather strip adhesive to bond it to metal substrates. I've used a lot of Pliobond for rubber adhesive. It was made to attach wing de-icer boots to the leading edges. Scotch brand adhesives are pretty good quality and work well if they are designed for rubber like materials. Now if someone used a superglue or Gorilla glue or what not, it would be interesting to know if it held up. Most folks go for the recommended tried and true materials. I tend to go that route myself and let others take the risky trail.
 
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rotorwrench said:
I've never done the 1939/40 running boards but I am aware that FoMoCo had the rubber vulcanized on most all of the cars after 1932 or so. The metal of the boards was originally prepped to hold or grip the rubber material better during the vulcanizing process. I was curious to those in the know of just how rough the metal is on the 39/40 models after you get all the old rubber off?

I've used a lot of different metal based fillers from Aluma-Lead to Metal 2 Metal and even Devcon plastic steel. These fillers have a difficulty factor to them that surpasses any type of normal filler material. My reason for wondering about the board texture is just to question how much filler will be needed to smooth them out. After the covers are on, the boards are fairly well water proofed and any good Rage filler or maybe Duraglass should work OK depending on how thick it is. Generally, it's the condition of the underlying metal that caused delamination of the filler materials with time. Strong changes in temperature and exposure to sun & weather also take there toll.
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Rotor, You've posed a great inquiry. I can only offer my opinion and comments which is based on quite a bit of experience.
Once the authentic rubber is removed, the board metal appear to be fairly smooth. I find it very difficult to believe that Ford added any process to "roughen" the metal prior to the vulcanizing. No doubt, the metal was left "as is" from the stamping and forming processes.
In regard to what type of filler is best or simply "good enough"... I prefer a metal impregnated filler for this purpose. Perhaps not necessary but it allows me a certain amount of confidence that I don't get with plastic fillers. I am extremely careful during the preparation process of the metal and do not worry about the filler becoming dislodged from the metal. Rather, I worry about the adhesion properties of plastic fillers (glue).
As for "how much" is necessary.... not much. I'd say the deepest area I have ever encountered was less than 1/32".
 
mrtexas:
Construction adhesive will not "flow out" and will leave bumps and ridges.
I Used Contac Cement , spreading it out with a Bondo spreader on both the running board and the underside of the running board cover. Once the cement dried to being "tacky" I placed wax paper in between the cover and the board and slowly pressed down the cover to the running board as I pulled out the wax paper. Use a roller to "push out" any air bubbles.
Or, you could apply the Contac Cement to just the lip of the cover and the curved edge of the board, let both 'Tack up" and then join the two together. This will permit you to lay the rest of the cover down on clean metal to see how the final fit will be. Then lift up on the cover, apply another coat of cement to a new area of the board and the cover, let it "tack up" and then press cover down into position. Keep doing this a little at a time until done. Do a "practice run" first to get your technique down pat.
I used ALL-METAL body filler to make the top of the running board nice and smooth. I did not apply any top coat to the filler. The FL sun has not caused any problems since install in 1988.
http://www.tptools.com/USC-All-Meta...ign=ME-14060&gclid=CJ35l47ao84CFQQzaQodymMFHg
 
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I read a post somewhere (maybe here or the HAMB) that mentioned some year model that had ribs or some form of surface irregularity to aid in gripping the rubber to the board. It must have either been from earlier year models or I got it mixed up with some other make of car. It sounds like the 39/40 models were straight forward and shouldn't be to much of a chore to do. It's pretty much just regular paint & body work.

The metalized fillers are very hard materials whether they are polyester based or epoxy based. Mostly due to the metal content. I always had to use an air file with some heavy grit paper to work it down but you have to watch the high spots. The rough stuff will remove as much metal as filler if a guy isn't careful. All that work taught me to work the metal as much as possible before using the fillers.

I would have figured using a spray type rubber adhesive might be easier. Sort of like doing interior trim work. Lay the thing out for fit then pull it up and spray a bit at a time. Let it tack up then lay it down. Start in the middle & work your way out. You just really need to know its in the right place before you start. Once it's placed, it don't like to move much.
 
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mrtexas said:
I have a set of 41 covers to install. I was thinking maybe construction adhesive would work better than contact cement. Anyone have trouble with contact cement letting loose in the hot sun?
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I used Vintique covers and contact cement. Fit like a glove and hasn't come loose in about 17 yrs.
 
19Fordy said:
mrtexas:
Construction adhesive will not "flow out" and will leave bumps and ridges.
I Used Contac Cement , spreading it out with a Bondo spreader on both the running board and the underside of the running board. Once the cement dried to being "tacky" I placed wax paper in between the cover and the board and slowly pressed down the cover to the running board as I pulled out the wax paper. Use a roller to "push out" any air bubbles.
Or, you could apply the Contac Cement to just the lip of the cover and the curved edge of the board, let both 'Tack up" and then join the two together. This will permit you to lay the rest of the cover down on clean metal to see how the final fit will be. Then lift up on the cover, apply another coat of cement to a new area of the board and the cover, let it "tack up" and then press cover down into position. Keep doing this a little at a time until done. Do a "practice run" first to get your technique down pat.
I used ALL-METAL body filler to make the top of the running board nice and smooth. I did not apply any top coat to the filler. The FL sun has not caused any problems since install in 1988.
http://www.tptools.com/USC-All-Meta...ign=ME-14060&gclid=CJ35l47ao84CFQQzaQodymMFHg
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Exact method I used. Works great.
 
Makes sense to start at the edge that is key to best look and fit then just carefully lay it over to prevent wrinkling.
 
mike42 said:
Hope........let me know how you do. Did you buy Drakes covers ?
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Mike 42.

I'm postponing the application of the running board covers, because i have to do some work on the board, and i have to get the proper "mindset" to do it.

Bought my covers from Joe's Antique in Uxbridge Ma. And they are Vintique.:)
 
Actually I used four guys and a lot of clamps to put mine on my 40. Many hands make the job easier and NO BEER OR PIZZA til the job was done. also prefit the covers to the boards twice BEFORE glueing (WELDWOOD CONTACT CEMENT).
 
Question??
Instruction is to start at edge, and also recommended by those that have done it before, But my question is when you glue the edge and let it sit., if i remember right when you contact the two opposite its instant there and will not mouve.
The lip on the rubber looks like to me has to slide on about 1/4"--3/8" am i expecting a problem that is not there????
 
hope said:
Question??
Instruction is to start at edge, and also recommended by those that have done it before, But my question is when you glue the edge and let it sit., if i remember right when you contact the two opposite its instant there and will not mouve.
The lip on the rubber looks like to me has to slide on about 1/4"--3/8" am i expecting a problem that is not there????
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That's why you do a dry run first using masking tape on the top of the board and the cover as alignment markers.
 
I'm going to use Weldwood Contact Cement. Already bought a couple pints of it.

Am I correct in understanding that I should "NOT" use a Rustoleum Primer on the boards after I sand them down ?

I crawled under the driver's side board over the weekend and wanted to see how many bolts there are and there's a stamp underneath saying "Made in Argentina" ! That can't be original is it ? These are very flat boards from what I can see.

Thx for all the comments. The covers come next week, so I'll advise.

Mike
 
Original boards are not made in Argentina. You have some old reproduction boards. The metal on those boards is thinner than the originals. I would suggest you find some originals to cover.
 
Sounds like some of the old reproductions. A lot of stuff was made in Argentina over the years.

There are as many ways to do a job as there are people who do them. Personally, I would never go without some form of primer. I would put a heavy enough coat of epoxy primer on that a person could sand it well without going through. Clean the sanded surface then apply the contact cement for the boards. The contact cement can act as a primer to a certain degree but it likely has no corrosion inhibitors in it. A good clean sanded surface should allow anything to stick to it whether it's bare metal or primer. You want a primer that will stick as good as possible that the Weldwood won't lift off. The thinners in the contact cement can lift a lot of different primers. The only rattle can stuff I would use would be PTI zinc chromate and it would have to be set in the sun for a week to bake it on good.
 
rotorwrench said:
Sounds like some of the old reproductions. A lot of stuff was made in Argentina over the years.

There are as many ways to do a job as there are people who do them. Personally, I would never go without some form of primer. I would put a heavy enough coat of epoxy primer on that a person could sand it well without going through. Clean the sanded surface then apply the contact cement for the boards. The contact cement can act as a primer to a certain degree but it likely has no corrosion inhibitors in it. A good clean sanded surface should allow anything to stick to it whether it's bare metal or primer. You want a primer that will stick as good as possible that the Weldwood won't lift off. The thinners in the contact cement can lift a lot of different primers. The only rattle can stuff I would use would be PTI zinc chromate and it would have to be set in the sun for a week to bake it on good.
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While I have a ton of respect for your knowledge and willingness to share, I can only agree with you in part on the primer issue.
I see NO need for primer in this case as the metal will be completely covered in glue and subsequently rubber. If the covers are applied correctly, water, etc. can not enter and corrode the metal.

The risk of the primer being attacked by the solvents within the glue is too high for this guy.
Your advice to choosing a primer that won't lift off is spot on.
 
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