1940 Ford Fiberglass running board

Brooks

Brooks

Senior Member
I have a question about fiberglass running boards on a 1940 ford. Can you put rubber covers on the fiberglass boards? Will they fit right when glue on to the fiberglass? Have any of you every done this. Thanks to everyone for info.
 
Sorry I can't help you with your question but if you haven't already purchased the fiberglass boards, I would recommend you look at the covered repops by Bob Drake. Just got some for the '39 and they are really nice.
 
39topless, the car has fiberglass boards. The customer wanted me to put on rubber covers. I have not done this before.
 
'40 garage
I would not touch it.
Hard enough to do successfully with original steel.
Just my opinion.
Bruce
 
First, put a "Test dab" of contact cement on the underside of the fiberglass to see how it reacts with the fiberglass material. Also, you may find that the fiberglass running boards
DO NOT have the exact same contour as the OEM boards thereby creating a bad fit. Take a radius gage and a ruler and compare the two boards. If the contours and lip are not the exact same, the running board cover will not fit. You don't want top end up having to buy your customer new running boards.
 
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The expansion and contraction of fiberglass vs steel may not lend itself to accepting the rubber covers. The glue may not hold in the heat. I also agree with 19Fordy as the lip of the fiberglass board is thicker than the steel board and the "lipped" covers are not designed for the extra thickness.I wouldn't touch that job as it will come back to haunt you.
 
A fiberglass board that is properly made for a smooth street rod board SHOULD NOT be considered for a rubber cover. A smooth board should have been compensated in thickness to the OUTSIDE dimensions of a rubber covered board.

A well made board that was built to the uncovered dimensions of an original steel board should work OK. If anyone ever made any like that, I don't think so. Any heat expansion/contraction is not an issue, and if it was it would be a problem with steel. Again any glue that would not hold due to heat would not hold to steel either.
 
Karl Wescott said:
A fiberglass board that is properly made for a smooth street rod board SHOULD NOT be considered for a rubber cover. A smooth board should have been compensated in thickness to the OUTSIDE dimensions of a rubber covered board.

A well made board that was built to the uncovered dimensions of an original steel board should work OK. If anyone ever made any like that, I don't think so. Any heat expansion/contraction is not an issue, and if it was it would be a problem with steel. Again any glue that would not hold due to heat would not hold to steel either.
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Listen to this man's advice... it is GOOD advice indeed.
If your client desires rubber covers and (obviously) he is not seeking concourse quality, I would suggest he purchase a set of Drake boards, perhaps selling the plastic boards to recoup some of his investment. In the "long run' I think he will be happier and ultimately his total investment more reasonable.
 
I had bedliner sprayed on the glass boards I put on my 53 F100. I like the look much better than smooth boards.
 
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