1940 driver door control, remote link

Thomas Sargent

Thomas Sargent

Member
I am working my way around the four doors on my 40 deluxe four door, doing general repairs and insulating. I am at the drivers door now, and see that the link that connects the door latch to the inside handle is in very poor shape. I have found a new latch, but my searches come up empty for the connector link.
I believe the part number is 01A-7921819. The arm length is about 12". Is there any hope of finding this part? eBay has come up empty for me. see attached pix.
Also the pins I am finding on the crank and latch handles seem to be too short. Is there a source for a longer pin? Also I am finding the springs behind the handles in various positions. Where is the correct place for the big round coil spring? on the inside side of the door panel or on the outside under the round bezel? Are all the springs the same for all locations? I have found two types.
 

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That link appears to be just fine. Why do you believe it is not?
The shafts on the window crank and door latch are all one length. If they are not broken, they are correct. Why do you believe they are too short?
 
Thomas Sargent said:
I am working my way around the four doors on my 40 deluxe four door, doing general repairs and insulating. I am at the drivers door now, and see that the link that connects the door latch to the inside handle is in very poor shape. I have found a new latch, but my searches come up empty for the connector link.
I believe the part number is 01A-7921819. The arm length is about 12". Is there any hope of finding this part? eBay has come up empty for me. see attached pix.
Also the pins I am finding on the crank and latch handles seem to be too short. Is there a source for a longer pin? Also I am finding the springs behind the handles in various positions. Where is the correct place for the big round coil spring? on the inside side of the door panel or on the outside under the round bezel? Are all the springs the same for all locations? I have found two types.
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It's the pins that hold the crank and handle on that are too short. This morning I measured what I have and they are about 7/16" long, looks like 3/4" would be right. Looks to be 1/8" dia. I wonder if a roll pin would work.
The connector is very sloppy, the arm joint near the end of the tape measure is very sloppy and the square shaft support housing is also very sloppy. Seems if available, a new unit would reduce all that play and movement.
 
Thomas Sargent said:
It's the pins that hold the crank and handle on that are too short. This morning I measured what I have and they are about 7/16" long, looks like 3/4" would be right. Looks to be 1/8" dia. I wonder if a roll pin would work.
The connector is very sloppy, the arm joint near the end of the tape measure is very sloppy and the square shaft support housing is also very sloppy. Seems if available, a new unit would reduce all that play and movement.
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The connections are "sloppy". I might suggest you remove the arms, inspect for wear and weld up / file back to restore.
If the shaft(s) coming out of the mechanism(s) are sloppy, they can be rebuilt IF you can find a kit. That's a huge "if". Drake made reproduction latch assemblies as well as window crank mechanisms.

Oh, the pins are too short. Yes, roll pins would work so would any piece of /125 diameter steel rod cut to length.
 
I have discovered the pins that hold the door handle and window cranks on are 0.134" dia, and rod stock is available from Granger. 1/8" roll pins too small, fall through. 8D nails are about 0.010 too small. I also have discovered on this car the outside door handles on the driver side are held on by two external screws that are on the teardrop shape under the handle that are exposed when you rotate the handle. The passenger side is held on by a single screw that is on the side of the door, not visible when the door is closed. Very odd I think. Comments???
I am still in the market for a door control link that is pictured above. Any suggestions where I might find a good one? Nothing comes up when I search google or Ebay. The part number is 01A-7921819 THanks
 
Thomas Sargent said:
I have discovered the pins that hold the door handle and window cranks on are 0.134" dia, and rod stock is available from Granger. 1/8" roll pins too small, fall through. 8D nails are about 0.010 too small. I also have discovered on this car the outside door handles on the driver side are held on by two external screws that are on the teardrop shape under the handle that are exposed when you rotate the handle. The passenger side is held on by a single screw that is on the side of the door, not visible when the door is closed. Very odd I think. Comments???
I am still in the market for a door control link that is pictured above. Any suggestions where I might find a good one? Nothing comes up when I search google or Ebay. The part number is 01A-7921819 THanks
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Sounds like a 39 handle on one side and a 40 on the other. Photos?
 
While installing the metal blocks for sholder strap seat belts in the pillar between the doors, I discovered that the PILLER had been cut out and replaced. There was weld that prevented me from getting the block in from the bottom as I had done on the passenger side, (which I had done first.) The floor metal near the rear door was also wrinkled and clearly hammered back into shape. I think this car took a strong hit at the pillar, and both the pillar and both doors were replaced. Would 39 doors and piller fit the 40? For sure a good job was done, as everything seems to fit and align very well in this area. I will look for some pix
 
Here are pix of the drivers door and handle, and how the passenger door handles are held in with one bolt
 

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Granger has round stock 36" long, 0.134 dia that fits perfect for the pins. Cut to length with bolt cutters. Cost was only $4.30 PIcked up at store so no freight.
Still shopping for drivers door control arm mentioned above
 
Thomas Sargent said:
While installing the metal blocks for sholder strap seat belts in the pillar between the doors, I discovered that the PILLER had been cut out and replaced. There was weld that prevented me from getting the block in from the bottom as I had done on the passenger side, (which I had done first.) The floor metal near the rear door was also wrinkled and clearly hammered back into shape. I think this car took a strong hit at the pillar, and both the pillar and both doors were replaced. Would 39 doors and piller fit the 40? For sure a good job was done, as everything seems to fit and align very well in this area. I will look for some pix
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Short answer... yes. Long answer... a lot of stuff is different.


Take a given body style 1937-39 front door with door side hinges, a 1940 with cowl side hinges, slip the hinges together and the door will fit, open, close, and latch (barring any hinge alignment differences.
The window systems are different 1937-39 vs 1940. Vent windows, different regulators, different felt. You can gut one door and install the stuff from the other with a bit of work.
The door latches are internally different and strikers are different but will work with each other.
The outside handles mount differently, the 1937-39 have a bezel that attaches with two screws, the 1940 fits into a sleeve (which you should install into a 1937-39 door if converting.
Garnish moldings are different to accommodate the vent window in 1940. 1937-39 garnish moldings vary by year and whether standard or deluxe.
Outside trim moldings and mount locations are different 1940 to 1939 to 1938 with 1937 not having moldings.
 
Very enlightening. Thanks. Now I understand why there is an outboard gap between the door and the vent rubber at the bottom of the vent. I discover the vent rubber doesn't cover the gap. Passenger side all is well. To fill the gap I found a product from Steele rubber that is a hollow square cross section, with adhesive on one side. Fills in 3/8" so the vent rubber can now seal on this additional rubber strip. Also I got a latch operator from fortyford that is in good condition and correct. Thank you.
 
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