1940 convertible restoration started

Well that's good to know I was thinking Ford had spacers of different thicknesses at different locations, but if I can bolt the mounting spots directly then shim from there, that;s great. What I like is the sturdiness of this body compared to the Model A roadsters I have worked on, so many of them have been put on there side then you end up racking the cowl or body, I really don't see the need to be tacking braces anywhere because the body is going to do what it wants once the tacks are cut loose, maybe I'm wrong here. So floor pan sandwiched between body brackets and frame, bolted tight then shim as needed? will have to get the door hinge pins dialed in also before final adjustments.
 
Another thing I have done, spent a whopping $12 on a rustoleum satin black paint job to keep it rusting and looking decent during the restoration because there will be lulls especially this fall (busy work schedule) coming up. Feeling really blessed to have found this project on Ebay, looked really rough in the photos and had no clue that all the extra parts were included especially the full set of top irons I just jumped on the deal when the seller shot me a price, barely a dent on it just a rotted out floor. Dash is nice except the instrument cluster (non original standard) is rusty.
 

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karasmer said:
I really don't see the need to be tacking braces anywhere because the body is going to do what it wants once the tacks are cut loose, maybe I'm wrong here.
Click to expand...

The thirst for information/advice in this thread by the OP reminds me of an old adage......something along the lines of showing a thirsty horse where the water trough is, yet somehow not being able to convince him to drink any of it. DD
 
karasmer said:
Well that's good to know I was thinking Ford had spacers of different thicknesses at different locations, but if I can bolt the mounting spots directly then shim from there, that;s great. What I like is the sturdiness of this body compared to the Model A roadsters I have worked on, so many of them have been put on there side then you end up racking the cowl or body, I really don't see the need to be tacking braces anywhere because the body is going to do what it wants once the tacks are cut loose, maybe I'm wrong here. So floor pan sandwiched between body brackets and frame, bolted tight then shim as needed? will have to get the door hinge pins dialed in also before final adjustments.
Click to expand...

ARGGGHH!!! No need to brace? Are you kidding? There's an old saying (piece of advice actually) that when doing one of these '39 - '40 open cars... "once you have braced the body enough, go back and do some more".

This is one piece of advice that can't be argued away. If you want to end up with a car that
fits "so -so" at best and struggle to get it that "good" go ahead - don't brace.

Door hinge pins "dialed in"? I trust that means pins replaced in to refurbished (read: round and aligned) holes.
 
I have done this before but only when lifting a complete body off the frame so nothing gets tweaked. I can see the logic here in once the door gaps are set with bracing in place then the hinge work can begin to make sure the doors open and close correctly with the gaps being maintained. I assume the hinge pin holes will need re-drilling/ reaming and oversize pins also.
 
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