1940 Brake Bleeding

Morning again....quick question....the shops in my town say I need to remove the hub before they can chuck the drum for turning. I assume that I need to get someone with a press to remove correct ?
 
Then you are at the wrong place, the original studs are swaged (like rivited), just pushing the studs out can damage the hub and drum, the swaged area needs to be cut ---
there is a small arbor for some modern machines that can be used ---or find someone with old barrett, that machine has adapters that fit in the wheel bearing, don't even have to remove the seal,
drums should be turned after mounted on the hub
 
mike42 said:
Morning again....quick question....the shops in my town say I need to remove the hub before they can chuck the drum for turning. I assume that I need to get someone with a press to remove correct ?
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Not a good plan! I am sure they are correct, "they" can not do the job with the drum attached to the hub, but that doesn't make it a good idea from your prospective. Need to find someone that has the proper equipment to turn the banjo era Ford drums.
 
mike42 said:
Morning again....quick question....the shops in my town say I need to remove the hub before they can chuck the drum for turning. I assume that I need to get someone with a press to remove correct ?
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You need to find a shop with the right equipment.

Did anyone mic the drums to check the ID?

If there was enough of a lip to hang the shoes; they may very well be worn out.

You can't just press the studs out as the are swaged in place.

If the shop doesn't know this; then they won't have the tools to cut
the swage and swage new studs in place.

If they are worn beyond limits; new drums are in order.

New drums are cast and don't use swaged studs. Hubs need to be fitted with press in studs.

If all else fails, while pricey, a set of Boling Bros drums along with a set of their hubs is something to think about.
 
Are they worn out? If not too bad they might be able to be used without being skimmed. Some photos and measurements would be useful. The back brakes are not as critical as the front ones.

Skimming isn't always a necessity and then having extra problems associated with trying to get them skimmed may be able to be avoided.

Mart
 
mike42 said:
Don't have your email addresses sorry !
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Mike.....My e-mail is:

roundmotor@outlook.com

The guys above are all right......DO NOT separate that drum and hub. That shop obviously hasn't a clue, and may very well render your drums useless. I have heard that shops doing old Beetle brakes have an arbor that will work. AND, don't forget that drum resto outfit in Illinois. I can find their contact if you desire!! DD
 
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Coop.....sent you a photo ! I’ll get back later on the other guys comments. I’ve been outside all day.

Thx......Mike
 
mike42 said:
Coop.....sent you a photo ! I’ll get back later on the other guys comments. I’ve been outside all day.

Thx......Mike
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TA-DA....here you go! DD

446796
 
Mike. Before you do anything, "mike" the ID of each drum and then go from there. You might find that the drums are still good to use. If there is a tiny ridge use a hand file and remove it.

You can be sure that "back in the day" drums didn't need hubs removed to turn the drums. That would be too costly and labor intensive. Be patient and find the right shop. There are folks who still have those brake lathes.

I have used the Boling Brothers replacement drums and hubs. They are excellent. Not cheap.
If you end up buying them reuse your old wheel bearings as the new reproduction bearings are of dubious quality.
 

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Morning Gentlemen .....It was a long day yesterday cleaning up this place and also my Grand Daughters made a visit and there was wine and pizza and well....you know where that time goes !

First ...Coop thx for posting that. I know you guys can't imagine how dirty this drum and brake was, but this is after 3 cans of spray and I wire brushed it also. There was sludge and crap so bad I could not see the parking brake mechanism. I took a few minutes yesterday to wire brush and spray again. It's looking better. I have to believe that these brakes were never changed since build date May 1940.

Glenn ....thx for the link on posting. Ive used computers since '87 and I never had so much trouble attaching a photo. Strange....! I'll be trying again.

Right now I plan on getting all the brake area cleaned and new brakes installed. I will then address the drum. There is still good strong material thickness left to be turned and yes I plan on taking my time with this. I have always tried to keep the old parts if possible and to repair them so it's still original. I cleaned up the drum and there is a very slight ridge on the edge. Understand that the town I live in is not Detroit where there are a lot of machine shops I could turn to. I'm limited to a certain degree, but once I get the new shoes installed I can address the drum issue. I'll have all Winter to do that, as the weather is turning bad next week and I would not be out in the barn too much longer. Not heated.

I sincerely appreciate all the help on this very much ! If it wasn't for you guys and YouTube I would still be trying to get the damn drum off !!

One last question for the day....I read all the notes regarding the drums and can the lug heads be ground down and then be pressed out and then the hub just comes off or does that also have to be pressed out ? The worst thing that could happen is to buy new, but would like to save the original hubs if at all possible. I had no bearing noise at each wheel. This car rolls pretty sweet and very solid, but most of it's life was sitting in a barn all during the World War II and then from 1957 to 1987 and then 1992 til 2012 in another barn until I bought it. I'm a very lucky guy to have found it. I love this ****.....!!

Going to make coffee....

Thx again all......Mike
 
Mike: LISTEN TO glennpmm. Don't press the hubs out.

"MiC" the drum ID and then if it is below 12.060 in. use it. From what you say that car has sat for so much of it's life that the drums are probably still good to use. Measure the ID and find out first BEFORE doing anything rash.

From the looks of the photo V8 posted the brake shoes don't have much wear.
I bet you can use the drums "as is".
 
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Glenn and Fordy .....

Removed the old seal and took out the bearing and cleaned all that crap out of there. I will measure the ID this afternoon. It has a "very small ridge" (1/64) around the inner cirumference(sp) and has grooves in the brake area but they are not real deep ! I'm hoping that now I have everything apart that maybe they can chuck it on a lathe to turn and take a skin cut. I'll know Monday as I really don't want to remove the hub.

I'll take a photo and try the link Glenn sent me later today. Still cleaning up leaves since it's 70º day in Northern Michigan. Very unusual for this time of the year !

Early this morning I sprayed the brake area again and wire brushed it all out. It's getting cleaner each time I do it. I'll be taking that apart on Monday and clean and paint the backing plate.

Thanks all and more later.

Mike
 
Problems with photo posting is almost always because of file size! Get the file size correct and it should be a piece of cake. When people send me photos to post for them they tend to be in the several Mb range!! They need to be around 500Kb max.
 
It might not be necessary to skim. The brakes will bed in to the drums after some use.
Mart.
 
Oh Boy......I just came back from the barn and started to unbolt the wheel cylinder.....guess what...only "ONE" bolt was holding it in place !!!! I wash it all again....and brushed and the brake shoes are stamped FORD script. There is also an 88 stamping next to it or it's a reverse B and the right next to it is a regular B.

Seery.....I took a photo of the ridges in the braking service and will attempt to send a photo.

Mart.....the ridges are not deep like the fronts. I'm going back to the shop in morning to see if they can chuck it now that the seal and bearing is removed. That seal was all chewed up !! Hell of a time getting it out though, but in finally broke loose. Photos later if I can make it work !!

Thx....Mike
 
31Flam.......I just may do that after I talk with the guys in town in morning. Thx

Fordy....I just MIC'd the ID diameter and it's almost on 12.06 as best as I can see. I went across the top of the ridges in braking surface. These drums are the originals as there is still an outer crust from casting around the edges. I would like to save.

Seery.....File is too big to send a photo !

Thx....Mike
 
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