1939 top load 3 speed question

[bullrunmotor]

Merry Christmas to all. My 39 top loader trans runs quietly-doesn't pop out of gear and shifts nicely into third. It does 'swipe" or "clash" shifting into second at a brisk speed pulling away. Not so much or at all- if you just get rolling in first and shift right away into second. I've got to pull the motor out this winter. I've just read Van Pelts Book and think I can get inside the box and possibly repair it myself. My question is if any of you guys can identify those symptoms as being associated with synchronizers-or the gear cluster or both? I know I'll see more with the trans out but I'm trying to get a feel for what I'll need parts wise etc.Thanks in advance

 

[cas3]

I think, if its as you describe, just a second gear issue, then your trans may be in good shape. You won't know till its apart, but one would assume a new brass blocker ring at minimum, maybe the 2nd gear teeth are worn too.

At any rate, it has to be torn down completely to fix, so at that point you will also do bearings, thrust washers, front seal at minimum. So, just tear it apart, follow mac's book and have yourself a new ******

 

[Tim Ayers]

What weight oil do you have in it? If 80-90W, try 140W. According to Mac VP, sometimes this may be caused by the gear set not slowing down and "synching" quickly enough. The heavier oil helps it to slow down quicker when the clutch is depressed and the synchros are activating.

Edit: I agree with Soildaxle's advice though. While out, it would be a good idea to go through it.

 

[solidaxle]

Your on the right track buying Van Pelts book. If it were mine, I would go through it since you have the motor out, you don't want to go through the effort of putting it back together and find you need to take the ****** out to repair it. More than likely it needs synchros. Follow the book, paying attention to clearances and oil leak prevention. You may want to change the clutch disc and pressure plate while your at it.

 

[rotorwrench]

The blocker rings in the synchro system can wear on the inside tapered surface and not function as they should. The blocker ring teeth can also get pretty chewed up over time. That would be the first check for that symptom. The blocker ring should have a gap between it's row of teeth and the second gear's row of corresponding teeth that is about the thickness of a quarter. This is a good gauge of the wear on the tapered surfaces. No gap = too much wear. Too much gap = a poor fit of a new part.