1939 Pickup

Randy1944

Randy1944

Senior Member
DSCN3026.jpg

DSCN3025.jpgI wanted to share a couple of pictures of my pu. I still have a couple of problems. Motor runs great - but gen. does not charge. I had the gen. rebuilt and with correct wiring it should charge. I still have a problem getting the windshield frame apart. It is now at a machine shop - hopping to get the screws drilled out and be able to put in new glass. Now I can't get the machine shop to do the job. Anyway here are a couple of pictures.
 
Soak the screws of the windshield frame with a 50-50 mixture or acetone and ATF to get the oil down in the threads of the screws. If you have some broken screws you will still have to drill out the stubs and chase the threads.
 
As to the windshield frame - I soaked it with ATF and Kroil and PB Blaster for three months. I tried tapping the screws daily and other liquids to no avail. A friend took it and applied heat. Finally gave up and sent it to the machine shop. Now I can't get him to do the work. I have really enjoyed the pu and look forward to getting the wiring and windshield complete.
 
Regulator looks new. Did you polarize according to the instructions for a Ford. If I remember correctly when I installed a new regulator in my '39 p/u (before I converted to 12 volts and an alternator) there were 2 different polarizing methods - one for a Ford and another for other makes. Just a thought. Regardless, your pick up looks good.
 
Had the same problem when I restored my 40,generator would not charge. Took gen. and regulator to generator shop and it all checked out fine. I had painted the gen. They told me to remove all the paint from where the gen. grounds to mount. Solved problem,been working fine ever since. Might want to make sure that regulator is grounded also

Rwalker
 
Randy1944 said:
As to the windshield frame - I finally gave up and sent it to the machine shop. Now I can't get him to do the work.
Click to expand...

Nice truck for sure, but I believe I would get down to that machine shop and retrieve your windshield frame PRONTO! That situation is deteriorating quickly. DD
 
If it is the stock type wiring and generator Ford did not run a ground wire from the generator to the regulator. It is only grounded through the case to the engine. Ford later added a direct ground connection from the generator to the voltage regulator because of problems with the grounding through the case only. Run a ground wire from the generator case to the voltage regulator case/mounting screws. Make sure you also have good clean grounds from the engine to the frame, from the frame to the firewall and from the frame to the battery. A lot of problems are the result of poor grounds.

Note: From looking at the photo the voltage regulator does not appear to be wired correctly, I only see one wire that appears to be connected from the generator to the voltage regulator. If the generator originally had a cutout, don't think you can just connect the cutout wire to a voltage regulator. Think you need an electronic cutout or a generator that is compatible with a voltage regulator.

Look at the insert in the wiring harness diagram, a voltage regulator requires a 2-brush generator with two wires to the voltage regulator (PLUS the ground wire described above, so three wires total from the gen to the VR).
 

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The generator shown on my pu is the one that was on it when I got the truck. While the truck is a 39, I have found the motor to be around 1946-1948 and has a crab distributor. I bgt. new wiring harnesses from Carpenter. I bgt. the voltage regulator as a NOS item. It comes with rubber grommets that cushion it from the metal firewall. Here is my setup now: Field on the generator to "F" on the voltage regulator - "A" on end of generator to "A" on voltage regulator. My generator also has a post that is not marked - I'm thinking that it is for a ground wire. Carpenters wiring harness did not have a "ground" wire associated with the generator. Since the voltage regulator is not grounded(rubber grommets) should I run a wire from the unmarked post on the generator to the firewall and ground it? Thanks for everyone's help. Sadly, I know nothing about wiring, but I do have a friend that comes by and helps me. When remounting the generator, I made sure the bare metal was very clean where the gen. bracket mounted to the intake mount.
 
Looks like there are several wires attached to a 4th lug on the voltage reg. That would be the ground lug if I were guessing. Nothing about the wiring on this VR looks correct to me. How about a closer photo of it and a description on where the wires go to?
 
More on your windshield problem.
I too have a 38 pickup project. The windshield frame, despite weeks of heat/ soak etc. would not come apart even when I drilled the screws out. I was keen to save the glass for patterns, so with a fine hacksaw blade I cut down through the join each side of the frame, cutting the square steel insert which aids the joining of the frame. This done it came apart easily. Next job was to drill these square insert pieces out. That took some time but by increasing the drill size carefully I finally got to a point where I could dig the remains out. These square pieces of steel had corroded to the frame. The next job was to make up new square steel inserts, again more time filing to get a snug fit, of square mild steel stock. ( at this point I considered using stainless steel to ease future disassembly, but a bit more difficult to hand tap a thread. Went for anti-seize coating instead)
The final stage was to mark and tap new holes in the squares to line up with the holes in the frame. Job done.
Dave
 
I just put my 39 pu windshield back together. Like 35Ragtop stated, the square bars get stuck in the frame. I removed two screws from the upper half and drilled out the other two which had the heads snapped-off from previous attempts. New stainless screws are available from bolt warehouse. I used a wood 4x4 and 1/2" threaded rod to push the frame halves apart. I routered a groove to follow the curve of the upper frame, some heat, lube and malletizing and it finally came apart. The frame is fairly soft steel and will warp easily so be gentle. If I was doing it again I'd spend more time making the tool to push the frame apart. Also, when it goes back together, do not leave any burrs, no matter how small. That little mistake cost me a $100 in new (again) glass and a week. Your machinist doesn't want the job apparently, time for plan B.
 
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