1939 pickup engine oil filter

F

Fech

Member
Hi all,

Please clarify the following:

1. I started having issues (spills) with the existing oil filter. Please see the attached pictures. It looks like it is too low. I was told it is possible to reuse the old filter. Is that correct?

2. I purchased a new filter, 7HA-6731-A, but it is bigger than the existing filter. Are there any problems using it? The space between the new filter and canister is smaller.

3. There is a rubber washer over a small spring at the bottom of the canister. It is broken. Could I use krazy glue or omit the washer? I can't find a new one. Sorry for my ignorance, but I am restoring my Father's pickup.
 

Attachments

  • 20240428_193855.jpg
    20240428_193855.jpg
    65.7 KB · Views: 55
  • 20240430_121542.jpg
    20240430_121542.jpg
    43.9 KB · Views: 50
  • 20240430_195520.jpg
    20240430_195520.jpg
    26.9 KB · Views: 48
  • 20240430_195526.jpg
    20240430_195526.jpg
    45.1 KB · Views: 46
As long as the filter seals around the tube and has some clearance on the outer wall of the canister it should be fine . there are slight differences between brands. As for the ruber washer, I've never heard of one in that position. As long as there is a spring with a washer on it then the filter then the washer spring combo on the lid your good to go. Tim
 
The leak from the top is probably from the rubber gasket that came with the filter. I found the Wix 51006 has the right size gasket.
 
Thank you all for the quick response!

The broken washer appears to be a "plastic" solid material, not rubber.

I can't find a spare piece. I hope if I glue it will not create problems in the future.
Is that bottom spring assy needed?

Also, is it ok if I sent to chrome the canister? I am not sure if the threads will be damaged or the internal canister chrome will react with the oil.
 

Attachments

  • 20240501_191502.jpg
    20240501_191502.jpg
    15.5 KB · Views: 21
  • 20240501_191602.jpg
    20240501_191602.jpg
    16.7 KB · Views: 17
If you’re hellbent on tricking it out, you’re better off buying a new chrome filter, or better yet, a beehive filter.
 
I agreed with ford 38 , buy a new or used bee hive filter . Personally I’d leave it the way dad had it .
 
Your 39 PU did not come from the factory with that oil filter. You can delete the entire assembly if desired.
 
Thank you all for the responses!

I have another issue; the bottom of the canister elbow fitting has damaged threads. Is it possible to fix it? I found a "similar" elbow, but it doesn't have a small hole at one end.

The canister looks original. I didn't know that the1939 pickup didn't need a filter. So, how to connect the oil hoses correctly when removing the canister?
 

Attachments

  • 20240504_132005.jpg
    20240504_132005.jpg
    46.8 KB · Views: 110
Fech said:
Thank you all for the responses!

I have another issue; the bottom of the canister elbow fitting has damaged threads. Is it possible to fix it? I found a "similar" elbow, but it doesn't have a small hole at one end.

The canister looks original. I didn't know that the1939 pickup didn't need a filter. So, how to connect the oil hoses correctly when removing the canister?
Click to expand...
541864
 
I'm with Terry... remove the filter. The engine compartment will have a neater / cleaner appearance.

A filter was optional on this truck back in the day. However, the original filter appeared nothing like the one you have there.
 
Fetch, as Kube points out, your filter is not original, so no need to salvage the damaged elbow. You can use the similar elbow as is if it is the return fitting, but if the inlet fitting, it must be restricted to 1/16”.
Regarding the need for a filter, you’ll have no better argument than all internal combustion engines now use a filter. Modern engine oil keeps impurities in suspension, to be removed by the filter. The old non-detergent oil settled out impurities into sludge overnight. I believe that Kube advises against filters on your vintage due to the originals not being available. I’m fairly sure that if he had an original to install, he’d be proud to do so, but for the fact that the entire filter was replaceable rather than being a canister with internal replaceable filter.
 
After 60 years of driving these cars and just a kittle bit of research, I too, have become a big fan of he original "bypass" filters
 
Ya it makes sense. I respect the idea of using a early filter. But it's really not practical or really period correct. If you want period correct don't run one and change your oil. Worked for many decades and respect those that use it. If you want one for a 39... kits for spin off filters are available. Suppose it's what ya want.
 
There was a ton of different air cleaners from different years. You running a traditional oil one? I am. Good question.
 
The fitting shown in your photo should not have such a small hole, the hole was damaged during install or repair work.

Fords first oil filter was offered as an accessory in 1936. It didn't look anything like the canister filter with replacement filter element, it carried over until early 1940. In 1940 Ford offered the canister type filter it also was an accessory.
 
Thank you gentlemen!

I am learning from your comments.

I solved the previous issues. My father wants to keep the existing canister, but after testing, a new leak appeared on the cap bolt. Could the blame be because we sent to chrome the cap and the bolt? What is the best way to seal the top bolt? Or for some reason, the pressure inside the canister is too high which overfill the oil?
 

Attachments

  • 20240505_182340.jpg
    20240505_182340.jpg
    38.4 KB · Views: 72
A simple hard fiber washer is sufficient to seal the top bolt. The filters come with two different diameter rubber washers due to different canister manufacturers, be sure to use the correct one for your application. As for pressure within the canister, there should be close to zero pressure if the restrictor is on the inlet side, no restriction at all on the outlet side.
 
Fech said:
Thank you gentlemen!

I am learning from your comments.

I solved the previous issues. My father wants to keep the existing canister, but after testing, a new leak appeared on the cap bolt. Could the blame be because we sent to chrome the cap and the bolt? What is the best way to seal the top bolt? Or for some reason, the pressure inside the canister is too high which overfill the oil?
Click to expand...
542094
 
Thank you again!
Hope that is the last question. At what level should the top of the filter be from the canister top edge?
 

Attachments

  • 20240508_125549.jpg
    20240508_125549.jpg
    42.9 KB · Views: 21
  • 17151912925492654402941535302232.jpg
    17151912925492654402941535302232.jpg
    38 KB · Views: 20
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top