1939 Ford Steering Box

Bazooka Joe

Bazooka Joe

Senior Member
What do I have to do to remove my steering box to rebuild it. I have removed the three bolts and light fixture . What's the next step . Does the steering wheel needs to be removed if so how does the horn assembly get removed. If the steering shaft stays on the steering box ( once steering wheel is removed ) how am I suppose to remove the box and the steering wheel shaft from below . Even having the car on ramps looks to be difficult. Unable to find much help on the internet. Thankx
 
The wheel has to come off. There is a rod down the center of the steering shaft and a clip that holds it (3643 & 3644) at the bottom inside where the light control switch was. The rod needs to then be pulled out the top. It is easy to bent and needs to be removed with care. There is most likely not enough room to remove this rod without taking loose the column drop and lock. Once the rod is removed the wheel is retained with a nut and then you may need a wheel puller to get the wheel off. The column goes down and out the bottom.

A better quality steering column diagram can be found at VanPelt Sales: http://vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_steeringear-pics/Flathead_SteeringGear_1937-39.jpg
 

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Once I remove part 3644 and 3643 does the horn/light switch pull out to expose the steering wheel nut, if so the next step would be to remove the nut(s) that holds the steering wheel to the outer shaft. If that is correct then what, pull the steering box from under the car ( which still has the inner shaft attached ) for final removal. Is all what I described correct?

Thank You
 
Yep. "Once the rod is removed the wheel is retained with a nut and then you may need a wheel puller to get the wheel off. The column goes down and out the bottom."
 
Steering wheel came off w/o puller, probably going to try to remove outer steering shaft housing to get better angle for removal, as now the steering box is hitting the drag link.

Thank You for Your help!

Joe
 
Bazooka Joe said:
Steering wheel came off w/o puller, probably going to try to remove outer steering shaft housing to get better angle for removal, as now the steering box is hitting the drag link.

Thank You for Your help!

Joe
Click to expand...

Not sure how easy that will be to do, but might give it a try.
 
You must have an open car. I just pull the whole thing. Use a puller on the pitman arm if the drag link is the problem. You can remove one tie rod end or steer to one side for clearance if the tie rod is the problem..
 
Almost there, going to try to jack up the front a little higher. 2nd opinion remove tie rod. Ordered repair kit today from Early Ford and 600 weight gear oil. I have a Deluxe Coupe and not an open car.

Thank You
 
On Reply select the Go Advanced button and a paper clip will appear with the Message icons. You can use this or below will be a button labeled Manage Attachments, either one will get you to the pop-up box to attach photos.

Nice looking car by the way.
 
Deluxe Coupe with High Performance Flathead V8 with electronic ignition pointless . Dropped front axle. 15" tires. L/B mohair interior. Restored by owner except paint and interior. Same owner 45 Years.
 

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I had to elevate the front end higher to get clearance for the steering shaft and box removal. Not going to do to much more till parts arrive as couple parts of the kit are Backordered. I have all winter to complete project. Thankx for asking.
 
Need to check the existing parts over good, you can often reuse the existing one. This is especially true of the worm gear at the end of the shaft.
 
To me High Performance Flathead is an old term, engine has a 3/4 race cam, headers, dual exhaust , Offenhauser finned aluminum heads, two FORD two barrel carbs. Offerhauler Aluminum intake manifold. Converted to 12 volt electronic ignition from Patrick some twenty years ago. Best thing I did getting rid of the venerable 6 volt dual point system. Tried running electric fuel pump at tank and a adjustable restrictor upstream to control fuel pressure. Went back to the stock fuel pump, not a problem getting constant fuel to both carbs. At high speed with original type fuel pump. All lights are still 6 volts thou. There is a photo of the engine in my album

Thank You for asking
 
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Bazooka Joe said:
To me High Performance Flathead is an old term, engine has a 3/4 race cam, headers, dual exhaust , Offenhauser finned aluminum heads, two FORD two barrel carbs. Offerhauler Aluminum intake manifold. Converted to 12 volt electronic ignition from Patrick some twenty years ago. Best thing I did getting rid of the venerable 6 volt dual point system. All lights are still 6 volts thou. There is a photo of the engine in my album

Thank You for asking
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In all it's glory! DD

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Removed internal parts from steering box, still waiting on the repair kit, ( so I can't see the inside of the new worm gear to get an idea how it mounts ) so how does the steering worm gear come off the steering shaft?

How hard is it to remove the two bronze/brass bushings by the steering sector shaft to install the new ones, it's not like I have a press. Any tricks to removal? Thinking of using a long socket larger than the diameter of the bushings but slightly smaller than the wall size and tap it out if that's possible, and after removal to install the new bushings would freezing the bushings help with installation

Thank You
 
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