1939 Distributor Problem

P

Porsche

Junior Member
Hi All
I am a new owner of a 1939 standard coupe with 90 HP flathead v8.
The car was running but recently I can not get it to fire. There is power at the coil and at the end of the coil wire that connects to the distributor but no spark at the plugs.

There is a voltage variation at the coil when the starter is engaged so I have been told that means the points are opening and closing. I have replaced the coil but still can not get a spark.

I have been told to replace the condensor but it looks like I need to remove the distributor in order to get the condensor off the housing attached to the distributor. I have disconnected the leads to the condensor but it will not slide out of the holder.
What do I need to remove in order to get at the distributor? fan? radiator?
This is a very tight area to work on.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Hello, and welcome, even though I won't call you by your user name! The distributor you are using may be incorrect for the car, can you post a picture?

The condenser should just lift right off after disconnecting the lead and the body clamp bolt.


If you still need to remove the whole distributor, the bolts holding it to the block come out, and it will just hang from the plug wires. When replacing, look at the tang to see that it is offset, and will go back only in that position. It should fit snug to the block again before any bolt is tightened up, or damage will occur.
 
The condenser has a ground that is a held by the closest distributor bolt. No need to remove the whole distributor, just the 1 bolt and the 2 screws that hold the coil on and the coil and condenser should come off together. This all assumes you have a 37-41 distributor.
 
Use the search feature for Bubba. He is one of the distributor guru's here along with others as well. Welcome aboard.
 
If the engine fires just as you release the start button, then yes, it is a bad condenser.

Lonnie
 
First, I like your user name. Anyway, yes the condenser has a ground lug that is held in place by the upper bolt on the distributor. A couple things to be aware of though. First, the replica condensers that are available now are not the correct value, so you are better off buying the IH-200 from NAPA. Also, even though you are seeing measurable voltage at the coil, it is possible that there is not much current because of poor contact at the ignition switch or elsewhere in the circuit. You can run a jumper wire from the 'hot' post on the battery to the post on the coil to confirm if there is an issue in the ignition circuit. Only leave the jumper wire on long enough to start the engine, otherwise you could burn up the coil.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all the info
When I took off the side panel off the fender I could see the screw that holds the condenser onto the distributor.
Bought the wrong condenser while in Hershey so have ordered another one from Mac's.
Hopefully that solves my problem.
 
The IH-200 doesn't have the proper MF value so you will be replacing the points more often. With the NAPA FA-49 which is the replacement, you probably have to buy 8 or 10 to get one that is within proper range. So it is a crap shoot. Not all meters can check the MF so if you have one use it.
 
deuce_roadster said:
The IH-200 doesn't have the proper MF value so you will be replacing the points more often. With the NAPA FA-49 which is the replacement, you probably have to buy 8 or 10 to get one that is within proper range. So it is a crap shoot. Not all meters can check the MF so if you have one use it.
Click to expand...

I have had an IH-200 in my 39 for close to 15 years. Still idles and
runs smooth at 75 MPH. Plus 100's of others use them and I never
heard of any failures or complaints.I think you need to try one before
saying a part is good or bad. G.M.
 
Binx said:
If the engine fires just as you release the start button, then yes, it is a bad condenser.

Lonnie
Click to expand...

I don't know about a bad condenser causing what you describe
above, they usually fail after they get hot but I suppose it's
possible. The starting after you leave off the starter is usually
from a low battery, loose wire or connection, dirty ignition
switch or bad resister. The starter takes a lot of current and pulls
the battery voltage down and just AFTER the starter button is
released the engine is still spinning and fires as the voltage
rises. The coil needs 2.5 volts or a hair higher to give a strong
enough spark to stay light when the compression comes. A weak
yellow spark blows out. This can be seen on a spark plug test
machine that has air to it. The plugs all fire good before air is
introduced in the chamber. As air pressure is increased to maybe
35 lbs the spark viewed through a small window blows out.This
is what used to cause a lot of ruff running engines. I think todays
plugs are better sealed and have better insulation. G.M.
 
Porsche, unless you're in the witness protection program, you might want to add your location to your profile. There may be local help available .... on the other hand, there are some dangerous guys on Ford Barn.

About the problem .... guys, go back and read his first post. See if there's a clue there ...?
 
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is the distributor located on the pass side of the engine? 39 distributors are located on the front of the engine. I believe you may have a 49/53 engine in you car--head has some numbers/letters on it. what do they have on them? A, 59AB, 8BA, 8CM, EAC, EAB??????
 
Hi Porche, I have read your post several times and am trying to understand what distributer you have fitted to what engine ?? It would help us answer your problem if you only told us all the information. I recon you have the original front mounted 39 distributer with the top mounted coil removed and an adaptor plate fitted in place of the coil with the condenser mounted in a clamp on top of that plate. The separate canister coil is mounted some place ?? That plate on top of the dist will lift straight up if you udo the two screws holding it on the dist. The condenser will come off with it. Lots of things could be wrong like an ignition switch with internal contacts worn. Faulty coil or condenser. Bad wiring connections or resistor connections. Dist contacts not good. Or problems with the high tension side such as faulty rotor or distributor caps. Let us know what you have. Regards, Kevin.
 
*******, sounds like he thinks he's figured out the problem ... but his first post seems to suggest he's not working with an original '39 set up.
 
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Thanks again for all of the feedback.
I have attached a picture of the rebuild tag dated May 22 1947 as well as the distributor less the condenser I am waiting for.
As far as I know this is an original car. The HP is 85 ( my error.) The previous owner is deceased. The executor whom I purchased the car from had a new 6 volt battery installed as a negative ground. The car was driven a few times short distances before I purchased it saw the error and changed to a positive ground.
Do not know if this could have caused some damage.

As I stated earlier I started and drove the car a few times with no problems. Then after it sat for a few weeks I could not get it to start or get a spark at the plugs. I have replaced the coil and now will replace the condensor and see if that solves the problem

O yea, I like Porsches as well as early V8's
 

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