1939 Column - Top Bushing Replace

PeterC

PeterC

Well-known member
My steering shaft is loose in the top of the column so I assume I need a new top bushing - it may even be missing. Can I replace the bushing by removing the horn Rod then the steering wheel and then slip the bushing directly over the steering shaft? I am hoping I do not have to pull the whole steering shaft out!
 
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The mast jacket bearing can be replaced as you described. I would suggest that you replace the existing bushing with a needle bearing kit, it is available on ebay for about $40.00. Well worth the money imho.
Tom

Sent from my 6045O using Tapatalk
 
If your column tube is original, and has the original rubber bushing in the top end, that will most likely need to come out, which can be a real pita. When I remove them, I take the column tube off the steering box shaft, and drive them out from the bottom to top of the tube. One column I worked on had three of those rubber bushings, one stacked on top of the other, all glued in place, what a fun time that was :).
There are several upper column bearings to choose from. The best IMO is the Dan Brusegard (sp) bearing assembly which is probably still sold on ebay @ ~ $60.00. There is also a flanged wheelbarrow bearing available at TSC for ~ $4.00 that I have used. Then there's a ball bearing that Ford used that may no longer be available at Ford parts suppliers. And finally a rubber bushing with a bronze bushing in the ID which I have seen available from the early Ford parts suppliers.

Old post with pics:
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69500&highlight=steering+column+bearing

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61577
 
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FYI: The flanged "wheelbarrow" bearing can work just fine but note that there is a big difference in quality between them. I looked around and found some that are made with machined steel and not the stamped style. They were about the same price as the stamped ones too.
 
C and G parts and some of the other parts suppliers sell the Ford style bearing and sleeve for around $20. I would recommend that you use a bearing rather than the rubber sleeve.
 
The plastic portion of my bushing is gone but the metal outer needs to be removed. Is there any way to accomplish this without pulling the entire column mast ? Thinking maybe filling a cut in it and getting it to collapse a little ?
thanks
 
Bondolero said:
The plastic portion of my bushing is gone but the metal outer needs to be removed. Is there any way to accomplish this without pulling the entire column mast ? Thinking maybe filling a cut in it and getting it to collapse a little ?
thanks
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Your post is a little confusing. If you had the plastic insert then you most likely have the later Ford bearing in your column. See if the center part of the metal ring will spin. If it does then you have the later bearing. If the bearing is still good then all you need to buy is the new tapered plastic insert. You can buy them on e-Bay or from C and G Parts.
 
If it's a coupe you may have to remove the LH rear window in order to get the horn rod out. It's that or drop the steering box.

1. Remove the light switch at the base of the steering column.
2. Remove the "c" retaining clip.
3. Remove the horn rod.
4. Undo the nut holding the steering wheel on.
5. Remove the steering wheel.
6. Remove the key from the steering shaft.
7. Make sure the ignition key is in the unlocked position.
8. Loosen the clamp at the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the steering column

I hope I haven't missed any steps - but at this age I never know.
You also might have to detach the column from it's dash mounting to give you a better angle.
Chris.NZ.
New Zealand.
 
swoopNZ said:
If it's a coupe you may have to remove the LH rear window in order to get the horn rod out. It's that or drop the steering box.

1. Remove the light switch at the base of the steering column.
2. Remove the "c" retaining clip.
3. Remove the horn rod.
4. Undo the nut holding the steering wheel on.
5. Remove the steering wheel.
6. Remove the key from the steering shaft.
7. Make sure the ignition key is in the unlocked position.
8. Loosen the clamp at the base of the steering column.
9. Remove the steering column

I hope I haven't missed any steps - but at this age I never know.
You also might have to detach the column from it's dash mounting to give you a better angle.
Chris.NZ.
New Zealand.
Click to expand...

Chris, at this age we're lucky to remember to put on our pants in the morning! Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a closed car, unless with a coupe the rear window rolls down, the horn rod must go out the drivers door window, which requires, in addition to the steps you outlined, the loosening of the steering box mount bolts. Did I remember to zip up my fly?
 
Need the metal housing out to install a bearing bushing. Do no want plastic insert.
Guess I can slip the whole mast off with the above steps with the drop still attached.
Sounds straightforward to me.
thank you
 
Peter, the bearing assembly is the best solution (about $60). Straight forward job, but time consuming. I have the steering wheel puller for the pre 1940 wheels and the horn rod can be removed without removing any windows. I replaced the bushing with the bearing assembly at least 15 years ago. Trouble free.
 
ford38v8 said:
Chris, at this age we're lucky to remember to put on our pants in the morning! Correct me if I'm wrong, but with a closed car, unless with a coupe the rear window rolls down, the horn rod must go out the drivers door window, which requires, in addition to the steps you outlined, the loosening of the steering box mount bolts. Did I remember to zip up my fly?
Click to expand...

I think Chris meant removing the little window behind the door and taking it out through that. I would imagine Chris has done this a number of times as he's got quite a few coupes. You just be careful with that zip too...remember the scene from that movie... "frank & beans" .

GB
 
There is enough bending flexibility in the long horn rod to carefully bow it and remove it. Never thought of it, but bowing it out the drivers open door might even be easier.
 
David W Juliano said:
There is enough bending flexibility in the long horn rod to carefully bow it and remove it. Never thought of it, but bowing it out the drivers open door might even be easier.
Click to expand...

I've done three of these steering column bushings; two coupes and one convertible. The convertible was easy but the coupes needed the left rear window to be removed. I was always cautioned to not bend the horn rod at all as it cannot be straightened to it's original state and will cause the horn to blow if the bent part of the rod grounds. Attached is a picture of the bearing that I used to replace the cork bushing at the top of the column.
Ken


s-l200.jpg
 
Based on my experiences working on these early Ford V-8 steering columns......you DO NOT want to bend that rod at all on the horn/light switch rod assembly because in most cases that rod cannot be straightened properly. When the rod is bent, it will drag on the ID of the steering shaft, and cause the headlights to turn on or off when you make a turn. I've never had any problems with a bent rod causing the horn to blow.
Also, since this post was originally made by PeterC, I know he has aquired a Dan Brusegard upper column bearing for his 35 3w coupe, although I'm not sure if he has installed it yet.
 
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I meant remove the back ( rear ) window if it's a coupe.
Or drop the steering box.
You don't want to bend that rod or possibly break it off just under the horn button.
Chris.NZ.
New Zealand.
 
I have just done this in a 35 Coup the rear window wines down a big help .It was a 37 box install ,If any one wants the detail let me know ,Ted
 
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