1938 generator cut out

[civilwarlife]

I'm looking for a Ford script cut out for my car. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Terry

 

[ford38v8]

Fun Projects www.funprojects.com
Electronic Voltage Regulator contained within a Ford Script Cutout

 

[Bored&Stroked]

I've used their "cut-out" clones before . . . good product and one that you don't have to screw around with and adjust.

 

[tubman]

Fun Projects www.funprojects.com
Electronic Voltage Regulator contained within a Ford Script Cutout

All that link does is take you to a site where they are trying to sell that domain name. From what I remember, "Fun Projects" is no longer in business and has not been for some time.

You should check links out before posting them on the forum.

 

[ndnchf]

Terry - this is the correct cutout for 1938. Its one I cleaned and adjusted, then put it on one of my spare model A generators. But I'll take it off and set it aside for you.

 

[Lawson Cox]

Terry - this is the correct cutout for 1938. Its one I cleaned and adjusted, then put it on one of my spare model A generators. But I'll take it off and set it aside for you.

That is perzactly what is going on the 60HP engine project.

 

[38 coupe]

I'll be the naysayer on this thread. I had a Fun Projects "regulator" on the 37 sedan several years ago. My experience is the Fun Projects regulators were designed for Model T and Model A Fords with lower output generators. A bit after I turned up the third brush to keep up with the halogen headlight bulbs (following the instruction provided with the "regulator") the Fun Projects regulator let the smoke out of my generator wiring. I think the Fun Projects "regulator" simply dumps the extra charge to ground and your generator is running wide open the whole time. I don't see how they could have done anything else since the device lacks the ability to regulate the field.

Also, the Model A cut out is different in detail than the later V8 cutouts. The Model A cutout has a tab sticking back to connect to the output of the generator. The later V8 cutouts have a wire connection on both sides of the unit. I cannot tell from the picture which type ndnchf is offering, but it will probably work for you and look, if not 100% correct, at least good enough for everything but a points judged car.

 

[terry]

My experience with the Fun Projects regulators was a good one. It worked well. I even used the same 6v generator with one made for 12v. You did have to follow the directions carefully and not allow it to charge over 9amps, if I remember right. This was fine if you didn't have a need for alot of amps being used at one time. Don't the halogen headlights use a lot of amps? terry

 

[cas3]

Agree with Terry, I have 3 fun project "cutouts" and could not be happier. Follow the instructions and all are still in cars working fine many years later. Halogen headlights are pretty much out of the question on any 3 brush system, they simply take too much power. You might get away with it just diving home a few miles after dark, but drive any long distance and the system is maxed out...asking for trouble. John...I forget his name, who invented the things, retired and sold the project to Bird haven auto parts out of Iowa about 4-5 years ago. I think they made them for a while, but had trouble getting anyone to do it, and so the last I knew as Tubman stated they are not available for now anyway.

 

[civilwarlife]

Thanks to all. I like the cutout. Its way better than what is there now.

 

[Mac VP]

We stock a comparable electronic cutout for the 32-38 type 3 brush generators. It’s rated at 20 amps. I suspect the halogen type headlights would be a problem for any of these cutouts, but I haven’t had anyone tell us it failed. Except for the ford script, it looks like the stock cutout. BTW it’s made in the USA.

 

[ndnchf]

Also, the Model A cut out is different in detail than the later V8 cutouts. The Model A cutout has a tab sticking back to connect to the output of the generator. The later V8 cutouts have a wire connection on both sides of the unit. I cannot tell from the picture which type ndnchf is offering, but it will probably work for you and look, if not 100% correct, at least good enough for everything but a points judged car.

Allow me to offer a clarification here.

Only the very earliest model A cutout (up to January 1928) had a tab sticking back to connect to the generator's terminal post. After that the cutouts used an "L" shaped bracket to connect the cutout's terminal screw to the generator's terminal post. This is the same as used in the V8 era, except instead of the "L" bracket, the wire coming out of the generator connects directly to the cutout terminal screw. This photo shows all thee types.

On the left is the January1928 and earlier model A cutout with the tab sticking out, in the middle is a typical post-January 1928 model A cutout with "L" bracket, on the right is the April 1936 and up "B" marked cutout that would be appropriate for Terry's 1938 Tudor.

 

[rotorwrench]

The little foot was used on later manufactured cut outs so that the foot could be removed for use with the generators that have the protruding power and ground wire coming out of the gen case. When looking for old originals, the foot is missing on a lot of them. Ford used this type for longer than the model A era and some aftermarket cut outs were made this way.

Eventually, the cut outs were made to be universal between the model A on up into the V8 era so they didn't have to make but one unit to fit all. These have the flat terminal on the front that can be used with the single terminal generators but it also has a screw on the edge so it can have a wire attached. Ford likely kept these in there parts system till well after the war.

Ford tractors also used a 3-brush but many of the cut outs on them had different mounting ears for generator attachment. Where the old ones had screw slots in the mounting ears, the tractor types had screw holes instead of slots.

John Regan came up with the fun projects voltage regulators for models T and A. He used an old Texas Instruments IC chip for the voltage regulator and several large diodes for power out control. The 3rd brush was still there to keep current in check. When John retired, he sold the rights to Bird Haven/Texas T parts. The old obsolete IC chip was discontinued and no one (even in China) makes them anymore. The chip was a relatively strong rapid switching type that gave it a good capacity for current output. The folks at that bought the design (Texas T Parts) have stopped making them.

The Fun Projects design is a good set up but folks that use it have to be careful how they deal with their electrical system. It is very polarity sensitive so connecting up a new battery has to be right with whatever the vehicles polarity is. The units can be killed by voltage spikes so a person has to maintain the electrical connections clean and tight at all times. If the battery is starting to go south, a person has to replace it before the little unit is stressed to the breaking point. With proper care, they will last a long time. It was a good product that will be missed by those that liked to use them.

 

[petehoovie]

Allow me to offer a clarification here.

Only the very earliest model A cutout (up to January 1928) had a tab sticking back to connect to the generator's terminal post. After that the cutouts used an "L" shaped bracket to connect the cutout's terminal screw to the generator's terminal post. This is the same as used in the V8 era, except instead of the "L" bracket, the wire coming out of the generator connects directly to the cutout terminal screw. This photo shows all thee types.

On the left is the January1928 and earlier model A cutout with the tab sticking out, in the middle is a typical post-January 1928 model A cutout with "L" bracket, on the right is the April 1936 and up "B" marked cutout that would be appropriate for Terry's 1938 Tudor.