1938 Ford truck distributor

[RBaker]

Worked on the motor this morning and the more I dig into it the happier I get......did a major cleanup on that thin layer of old oil in the valve area.....used Zep citrus degreaser and diesel fuel to dissolve it....worked great! Drained the crankcase and put another gallon of diesel down through the engine.

I'm still amazed at the condition and see no need to rebuild.....checked the block/valve area for cracks and did not see any.....no past repairs either. Pistons are excellent!

Ordered my gaskets from Macs auto parts in New York....might be here by the end of the week.

Will add more pics as I progress.

 

[RBaker]

Before & After

 

[Tinker]

Looks great! Nicely done.

Did you get copper head gaskets?

 

[RBaker]

Looks great! Nicely done.

Did you get copper head gaskets?

Yes have the copper gaskets on the way....anything special need to be done when installing?

After today I'm glad I decided to remove the intake and heads.....the water ports in the heads and block were filled with "rust dust", after blowing air through them I think I finally got them clean.

 

[Tinker]

Personally, I use copper spray when installing. Torque, run engine till hot then torque again. 45lbs for cast iron and 35lbs for almunium (if I remember correctly).

If you don't have the torque procedure for the 21 I have it somewhere. I could scan and post it for you.

 

[billwill]

I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned overthe dis will go in one wayonly

 

[RBaker]

Personally, I use copper spray when installing. Torque, run engine till hot then torque again. 45lbs for cast iron and 35lbs for almunium (if I remember correctly).

If you don't have the torque procedure for the 21 I have it somewhere. I could scan and post it for you.

Thank you Tinker you and the other guys on here have been a great help. I decided to post pics of my progress so you guys could help me through each step.

I will pick me up some copper spray in the morning.

 

[RBaker]

I guess one of my questions is....are both points suppose to spark when they open when the engine is turned overthe dis will go in one wayonly

Thanks Bill I got that figured out finally, haha

 

[ken ct]

I would not use the black intake manifold gasket from Mac's. Go to NAPA and get a Fel-Pro one [lite tan] I had to scrape off mac's small piece by piece its garbage. Sticks like cement to the manifold after only 3 yrs use. ken ct.

 

[RBaker]

I would not use the black intake manifold gasket from Mac's. Go to NAPA and get a Fel-Pro one [lite tan] I had to scrape off mac's small piece by piece its garbage. Sticks like cement to the manifold after only 3 yrs use. ken ct.

Whew...luckily I did order the intake gasket from Napa it should be here in the morning.

I went to Napa, Carquest and Autozone to order the head gaskets but they all came back as not available so I found Macs online.

The pistons in this engine are aluminum did it always have aluminum pistons?

Guy down the road has a 1951 Flathead which he claims has steel pistons.

 

[flatjack9]

I have always installed my gaskets dry and never have a problem. Don't think I've ever seen a late engine with steel pistons. Ford did use steel pistons with steel liners starting in 38 and running through 41. Not all engines had steel pistons, aluminum was also used.

 

[ken ct]

I have always installed my gaskets dry and never have a problem. Don't think I've ever seen a late engine with steel pistons. Ford did use steel pistons with steel liners starting in 38 and running through 41. Not all engines had steel pistons, aluminum was also used.

Flatjack,i had big problem with an intake gasket from Mac's,put on dry 3 yrs ago and took me all day to remove from intake with a scraper and drill mounted skotch brite pads. Never again. Put on a fel-pro this time. ken ct.

 

[1952henry]

Yes have the copper gaskets on the way....anything special need to be done when installing?

After today I'm glad I decided to remove the intake and heads.....the water ports in the heads and block were filled with "rust dust", after blowing air through them I think I finally got them clean.

Unless it is together now, I would attack the ports with long screw drivers, cable, and anything you could use to reach in and scrape around. You would be suprised how much crud comes out. Even so-called hot tanked engines give up a tremendous amount. Nothing like a clean block to help with keeping temps down.

 

[flatjack9]

Flatjack,i had big problem with an intake gasket from Mac's,put on dry 3 yrs ago and took me all day to remove from intake with a scraper and drill mounted skotch brite pads. Never again. Put on a fel-pro this time. ken ct.

I guess I wasn't clear, but I was talking about the copper head gaskets.

 

[ken ct]

Oh,ok. ken ct.

 

[RBaker]

Unless it is together now, I would attack the ports with long screw drivers, cable, and anything you could use to reach in and scrape around. You would be suprised how much crud comes out. Even so-called hot tanked engines give up a tremendous amount. Nothing like a clean block to help with keeping temps down.

You got that right Henry!.....I made a long tube out of small copper pipe that attaches to my air hose I have been cleaning the inside of the block and heads for two days. Today I put water in the ports on the head and let it drain from the water pumps.....tomorrow I will blow more air inside until I have it as clean as possible. Looks pretty clean inside now but that rust would have caused issues in my radiator for sure.

Probably be this weekend before I have the engine back together I had to order a new fuel pump push rod....might as well replace that while the intake is off.

 

[OLD...BILL]

More cleaning to do, the area around outside the cylinders in the water jacket area, all that "STUFF" that came out of the head, there is a ton more down there, use your air gun with lone snout and your shop-vac. you will get a cloud of rustie dustie and some chunks or rust "stuff", AND some casting sand YES casting sand in there from day one.
all displaces water, also moves with the water to the radiator, not good. Clean as you go.
and as:"Tinker says" run it, get it hot, and re-torque .....not.. Bill.... the other ....OLD....BILL and did you get that trans? if not go get it as you wait for parts, and PAINT... He..He..

 

[RBaker]

More cleaning to do, the area around outside the cylinders in the water jacket area, all that "STUFF" that came out of the head, there is a ton more down there, use your air gun with lone snout and your shop-vac. you will get a cloud of rustie dustie and some chunks or rust "stuff", AND some casting sand YES casting sand in there from day one.
all displaces water, also moves with the water to the radiator, not good. Clean as you go.
and as:"Tinker says" run it, get it hot, and re-torque .....not.. Bill.... the other ....OLD....BILL and did you get that trans? if not go get it as you wait for parts, and PAINT... He..He..

Hey Old Bill,

I made a visit to the old timers house today and he gave me a few things....I did do some paint work for the old man in the past and I also think he is just plain excited about my 1938 truck....he wants to see it driving down the road.

He had no idea the trans had a serial number on it but I got that and some pics....and several other pics to share.

The serial number is 18-5573305

 

[RBaker]

The old timer throws NOTHING away.

 

[RBaker]

This was the most exciting thing he gave me....1938 Tennessee license plate original. That will look good on the front of the truck.