1938 Ford truck distributor

When you get a chance, get 00 welding wire and have ends made up for all the battery connections. You won't regret it. Grounds are your friend. Clean all connections.

This site is great for parts drawings. http://www.vanpeltsales.com

Flathead_Distrbtr-wiring-1932-41.jpg


a pict of mine.
 

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Perfect picture Tinker thank you! Thursday I will connect my condenser that way.....Do you think the engine ground wire may also be my problem?? I just noticed it today and have not removed it for cleaning...it is pretty rusty.

Look forward to reading any help left here in the morning this site has been great help to me.
 
Yes, clean all connections. Upgrading to welding wire is something you can do later once everything else is in order. Just clean it up and you should be fine.
 
"Perfect picture Tinker thank you! Thursday I will connect my condenser that way..... "

The picture may be misleading since your condenser may be the earlier design that attaches to the distributor mounting bolt (to the block) on the upper right side rather than one of the coil mounting screws.

Yes. I recently encountered a loose mounting bolt that, even with the condenser terminal in place, did not provide sufficient contact ... engine would not run.

"Do you think the engine ground wire may also be my problem?? I just noticed it today and have not removed it for cleaning...it is pretty rusty."

Battery positive lead (original) goes to firewall (hope in '39 like my '38 coupe.) Firewall must be connected to engine. Again, been there. Weak/no spark.
 
Hoop said:
"Perfect picture Tinker thank you! Thursday I will connect my condenser that way..... "

The picture may be misleading since your condenser may be the earlier design that attaches to the distributor mounting bolt (to the block) on the upper right side rather than one of the coil mounting screws.

Yes. I recently encountered a loose mounting bolt that, even with the condenser terminal in place, did not provide sufficient contact ... engine would not run.

"Do you think the engine ground wire may also be my problem?? I just noticed it today and have not removed it for cleaning...it is pretty rusty."

Battery positive lead (original) goes to firewall (hope in '39 like my '38 coupe.) Firewall must be connected to engine. Again, been there. Weak/no spark.
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Thursday will be cleaning day for all connections....something I should have done first thing but got in a hurry.

As you mentioned my condenser looks like this....bolt it to the block?

78-12300condsr.jpg
 
Both are 38's, got the yellow one to fire up breifly with a home made bare minimum wiring harness. Really needs new plug wires. Has Juice brakes that were added in the 60's. Bought the other one because it had a bed, a better cab, hood sides and the raditor is better. Engine in that one is stuck and the owner says it was a real oil burner when he parked it. It also has later Merc brakes on the front. Both frames are shot. Working on getting the titles right now. Rod
 
try to get it started with what you have...new plugs, etc. as you are planning...then start replacing parts if need be....good luck....sounds like you are having fun....Mike
 
" ...bolt it to the block? "

Yes. The reason for the change in design was due to the difficulty of removing the coil from the distributor with the distributor installed on the engine.

The distributor bolts are a little hard to reach and sometimes allow only micro turns of the wrench. Attaching the condenser ground to a coil screw makes the job easier, but either condenser will work for you.

Hoopknife-1.jpg
 
RBaker said:
After reading your comment I went straight to the garage with pen and paper and you hit the nail on the head!

I can read the serial number on the frame next to the steering box and it does not match this trans number.

Trans number BB18-2216590 clear as day.
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According to the chart that I have, that transmission more than likely was made in 1936. It will work and shift OK in your pickup, but you may not be satisfied with it. It has straight cut gears and no synchronizers and may require you to double clutch to shift gears. You may be happier with a stock 3 speed.JMHO
 
The transmission is a Warner Gear T9, known as a spur gear in Fordspeak. It was first used in 1929 AAs. It was revised for the Model BB, hence the BB part number. As stated the little lever is the reverse gear lockout, which Warner Gear dropped after 1942.
 
jerry grayson said:
According to the chart that I have, that transmission more than likely was made in 1936. It will work and shift OK in your pickup, but you may not be satisfied with it. It has straight cut gears and no synchronizers and may require you to double clutch to shift gears. You may be happier with a stock 3 speed.JMHO
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1952henry said:
The transmission is a Warner Gear T9, known as a spur gear in Fordspeak. It was first used in 1929 AAs. It was revised for the Model BB, hence the BB part number. As stated the little lever is the reverse gear lockout, which Warner Gear dropped after 1942.
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Thank you both for the info that is very interesting history! There is a guy down the road with a 3 speed that came out of a 1939 coupe that looks very similar but the shifter shaft is odd shaped ...not as tall as mine and more curved.
 
You guys were dead on about the weak spark and the bad ground connections.....first thing this morning I grounded the condenser to the block and removed and cleaned the engine to cab ground connection.

After that the spark at the plugs became SUPER STRONG!

After that I did try to start it a few times and the old engine ran for about 6 to 8 seconds.....my carb which I though was a model 94 is actually a Ford model 59...it does not seem to be working properly even after cleaning several times...the pump mechanism spring is very weak and one jet seems to pump fuel ok but the other just sputters fuel out.

I removed it and cleaned it again today....one thing I noticed is the float needle has no rubber type tip or gasket on it at all....should it have one? It's just a shiny shaft.

I think the timing may be off some.....how do you check the timing? I noticed on vanpelt sales they show the "ruler" method when you have the distributor removed...is that the only way to check timing?

Most of all I'm happy today that it tried to run.....better than nothing!
 

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GO GET THE TRANSMISSION.... N*O*W.... From the guy down the street. you will not be sorry, you drive that 4 speed once around the block and crunch and crunch on the gears, you will want to make the change, to the passenger car/lt truck trans. and what was in your truck originally ?? and much nicer to drive, as for the shift handle, it can be change, or bent to your liking. and if you don't like the 39 car trans, you can sell the me for next nonthing, Ha-Ha.... as for the 4 speed; save the rear mount and coupling and the clutch shaft linkage, gut the gear box and us it for a wheel stand around the shop. .... OLD....BILL
 
RBaker said:
You guys were dead on about the weak spark and the bad ground connections.....first thing this morning I grounded the condenser to the block and removed and cleaned the engine to cab ground connection.

After that the spark at the plugs became SUPER STRONG!

After that I did try to start it a few times and the old engine ran for about 6 to 8 seconds.....my carb which I though was a model 94 is actually a Ford model 59...it does not seem to be working properly even after cleaning several times...the pump mechanism spring is very weak and one jet seems to pump fuel ok but the other just sputters fuel out.

I removed it and cleaned it again today....one thing I noticed is the float needle has no rubber type tip or gasket on it at all....should it have one? It's just a shiny shaft.

I think the timing may be off some.....how do you check the timing? I noticed on vanpelt sales they show the "ruler" method when you have the distributor removed...is that the only way to check timing?

Most of all I'm happy today that it tried to run.....better than nothing!
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No you dont want the needles with the rubber tip. And is the ******** the cond. it should be behind the bolt head not behing the dist housing,at least it looks that way in the pic. Get some better 6V ground cables also run one from the engine to the fire wall.ken ct.:)
 
OLD...BILL said:
GO GET THE TRANSMISSION.... N*O*W.... From the guy down the street. you will not be sorry, you drive that 4 speed once around the block and crunch and crunch on the gears, you will want to make the change, to the passenger car/lt truck trans. and what was in your truck originally ?? and much nicer to drive, as for the shift handle, it can be change, or bent to your liking. and if you don't like the 39 car trans, you can sell the me for next nonthing, Ha-Ha.... as for the 4 speed; save the rear mount and coupling and the clutch shaft linkage, gut the gear box and us it for a wheel stand around the shop. .... OLD....BILL
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Ha Ha you are the man Old Bill! Yeah the old guy has a nice looking 39 ford but they put a Buick V6 in it and some type of modern auto trans but he held onto the original trans that came out of it.

He has lots of old parts and just about everything is for a 39 Ford business coupe....couple of hoods, instrument panel etc.....I will go down there and take some pictures for you in the morning.

The only bad thing is the old guy knows nothing about working on these old engines...
 
ken ct said:
No you dont want the needles with the rubber tip. And is the ******** the cond. it should be behind the bolt head not behing the dist housing,at least it looks that way in the pic. Get some better 6V ground cables also run one from the engine to the fire wall.ken ct.:)
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Hi Ken,

On the condenser I have it attached to the bolt on the distributor housing I think the picture just makes it look like I have it behind the housing.

I agree about the ground cables those things have probably been on there for decades......they were total green.....guess they are cooper or brass?
 
yeah, if you can get that transmission at a good price, get it....and that funny curved shifter??....probably worth 100 bucks or so by itself, if ebay is any indication.....175 for a repop....lots of good info on that link to help you ID the '39 transmission to be sure it is a '39, etc....good luck and keep having fun...Mike
 
He said I could have that trans if I needed it....thats a good thing.

Today I really think my timing is off....I have great spark but its not even trying to start with starting fluid or fuel.

I think when I put the distributor back on I may have put the key in the slot 180 degrees.....thinking if I remove the distributor and turn the shaft 180 then reinstall it may be correct.

Has this happened to anyone before or does it sound like a stupid idea?

any thoughts?
 
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