1937 No start

Had a minute or so today and will get more done as we go.Took the distributor apart as pictured above. Everything looks prett good, cleaned everything, and reassembled with new echlin cs47 contacts etc, painted point plate ( hate rust) and mounted with new stainless allen ( allows adjustment with allen wrench makes life easier)..
Ran on machine for a few minutes , removed from machine and readjusted everything, used a adapter for first trial run and ran for approx 20 minutes applying oil as we went. Runs really good with proper advance and good spark out put. Will install new cap sides and load test with new rebuilt 6 volt coil as soon as time permits.....
Enjoy and ask away theres lots to discuss here......
Note: I put the early and late rotors and distributor parts side by side for comparison as this was somewhat discussed in the posts above
Note the heat shrink on dist shaft to prevent arc from rotor etc.....just a idea we use..??.
 

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oldford2 said:
Bubba, What rpm's were you up to in the video?

Are you starting to ship the 1 for 2 distributors? John
Click to expand...

Went to 5000 rpm with no problems at all, this was using a 12 volt coil and a ballast resitor.The test plug is 25,000 volts.....

Yes we have shipped the first round and will ship some more this week ( tomorrow is crab build day) also if you have a imediate need for a distributor on the trade in program let me know and i will move you up the latter . Some of the guys are not needing it right away and have stated that in their notes etc....
 
The customer did a test and found the rotor off,If the test was done right.The rotor is wrong. I'm not good at art but you get the idea.
picture.php
 
If Bubba sends caps with that dist he has run thru, that should end the problem. I do not think I have gone up to 5K on my Heyer or Ford machine. The spark sure looked good on his.
 
George/Maine said:
The customer did a test and found the rotor off,If the test was done right.The rotor is wrong. I'm not good at art but you get the idea.
picture.php
Click to expand...

I will check that but the rotor fits good and its the correct rotor for the distributor. The caps i have are the wrong one ( earlier) once i get the right caps i will load test with caps and rotor and scope check the system.
Really want this one to be correct considering....
 
What i,m looking for can be seen with eye.
If you were facing a vise, the right side vert if you put the drive
slot in vise and turned the dist to pass side hole up.
Where is the rotor pointing up,down, right,left,
You must have others a know good one.
I,m looking for one thats indexed wrong.
 
George,ive done literaly over a 100 rebuilds and have never seen a rotor that was indexed wrong as you state.Sounds like he never sent the inner caps to Bubba,seeing Bubba said he was looking for the later inner caps to retest. He should have sent the whole thing to him. I still think he has some wires crossed or the wrong inner caps in there. OMO ken ct.
 
Well it has to be proven what is wrong.I to think it maybe wireing but to have it not run at all,i think other wise.
With these are market parts,it may not be rotor,but now it could be shaft with wrong flat. This is either right of wrong and if not the problem will be there for ever. yes or no
 
Yea he would have to find the correct shaft.Could be a mis-match of parts in there. ??? ken ct.Boy would i like to get my hands on that one.lol ken ct.Id do it for parts needed only.No labor chg.
 
ken ct said:
George,ive done literaly over a 100 rebuilds and have never seen a rotor that was indexed wrong as you state.Sounds like he never sent the inner caps to Bubba,seeing Bubba said he was looking for the later inner caps to retest. He should have sent the whole thing to him. I still think he has some wires crossed or the wrong inner caps in there. OMO ken ct.
Click to expand...


Yep thats the way it looks right now for sure..........
 
I guess if I was the test it on machine.
I would get the cap holes pass side and drivers side 9 oclock and 3 oclock,
line up to graft and if had a cap on pass side, the one top left innner,and use that to test number 1
The drive slot is TDC, if it sparks out #1 wire its good or even 180 to drives side contact.
I don,t know how much there is the play with + /- 10 degs
As for the wires Post by Tomo #121 shows the numbering on caps
looking from fender on both side.
If those caps were to get mixed, wires attcahed. IT would,nt work
Dist only goes in one way,dist bolts only one way.
So its the wires or rotor indexing
Don,t think it was ever a spark problem.
 
George/Maine said:
Well it has to be proven what is wrong.I to think it maybe wireing but to have it not run at all,i think other wise.
With these are market parts,it may not be rotor,but now it could be shaft with wrong flat. This is either right of wrong and if not the problem will be there for ever. yes or no
Click to expand...


George,

I agree all this work we need to find out the exact problem.
I just checked a tub full of cores (ie:4 hole two bolt coil housing core with small points and rotor) all of them are indexed just like the problem unit , so we can close the chapter of our book regarding index of the rotor etc.....

I am moving toward either incorrect side caps ( hard to install) or incorrect wiring...


Bubba
 
Bubba That ends that idea.
I think when you send it out ,number the caps holes each side so no mistake,Little gas and should fire.
I hope to hear when it runs.
George
 
I respect Dick very much , that having been said I never dump a heavy amount of starting flud in an engine. Asking for trouble IE bent rod ,scored walls bent valve. Just not good. Same with to much gas but not as bad. Sounds like you are missing something. Did this engine run prior to the current problem. I purchased an engine that had the timing off 180 Degrees. If you crank it over with the plugs out and set up # 1 plug to view spark ( I made one with a old plug and soldered a ground wire to it with an alligator clip on it). You should be able to hold your finger over the plug hole and watch the spark for TDC. That's the best starting point , like Dick said this is not rocket science it's just a simple engine. I think your missing something. need compression (you have) fuel , and spark at the correct time it needs to at least run momenterily, The carb can be a problem but you should still be able to get it to popover for a short period with just some plain gas down the barrel of the carb.
 
George/Maine said:
I guess if I was the test it on machine.
I would get the cap holes pass side and drivers side 9 oclock and 3 oclock,
line up to graft and if had a cap on pass side, the one top left innner,and use that to test number 1
The drive slot is TDC, if it sparks out #1 wire its good or even 180 to drives side contact.
I don,t know how much there is the play with + /- 10 degs
As for the wires Post by Tomo #121 shows the numbering on caps
looking from fender on both side.
If those caps were to get mixed, wires attached. IT would,nt work
Dist only goes in one way,dist bolts only one way.
So its the wires or rotor indexing
Don,t think it was ever a spark problem.
Click to expand...
George,i have to differ with your statement [dist will only go in one way] Not true. It can and has been put in 180 off by some people and most of the time it busts the outer housing. PS one of my customers did so after i rebuilt it for him.Result was back in shop for another housing at his expense. ken ct.
 
How long ago was was it ... August 30, post #18?

I told you guys about the caps. How many of you actually have both styles of caps? ... and a later diver's bell?

Has anyone tried both caps to see just how close they fit?

Both caps are numbered. They have the same firing order. They have notches ... the inside toward the rotor has a locating tab. The outside where the wires plug in has TWO slots.

If you plug the wires into the correct, numbered holes of an early inner cap, then try to line up the inner tab with the notch in the distributor ... #1 is not at eleven o'clock, it's at ONE o'clock.

Remember, 45 degrees off?

The TWO outside notches allow the outer cap to be installed pointing rearward, just as though the correct inner caps were installed.

Given some extra fat gaskets sold by some vendors and "close enough" works.

Those of you who have played with the different caps will also note that the arc of the "contact" points on the inside is larger than the later caps ... poor rotor alignment.

Still time to lay down some bets.
 
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