1937 Ford V8-60 tin side leaking

Barillarospeed

Barillarospeed

Senior Member
Any advise on how to seal up (if any way) a Tin Sided V860 where the tin sides are welded to the block? have an older rebuilt engine but I don't know any other history as it was rebuilt before I bought it. Filled the engine with water and it is sweating out the tin sides pretty bad when not running. JB Weld? Bars Leaks? any help would be very appreciated.
Thanks, Jim
 
Barr's is very good. They have several formulations, so pick the one for the biggest leaks, and follow the directions.
 
I dont think the tin side was weled it looks like the iron and stainless were somehow pressed together. Locktite has a fast setting two part epoxy putty that comes in a roll. Looks like a fat totsie rool. To activate the epoxy first yuo cut a peice off the roll then you roll the inner and outer materials together until the two different colors blend together. The putty sets up in 10 minutes and is really hard once it sets.
The water tank in my flathead powered Land Speed Race Car started to leak along one of the welds I found a long crack developing in the weld. This discovery was at the race track I had no way to weld repair the tank. I used the Locktite putty problem was solved I continued to use the tank with the putty patch the rest of the year the stuff works great.
 
Ronnieroadster said:
I dont think the tin side was weled it looks like the iron and stainless were somehow pressed together. Locktite has a fast setting two part epoxy putty that comes in a roll. Looks like a fat totsie rool. To activate the epoxy first yuo cut a peice off the roll then you roll the inner and outer materials together until the two different colors blend together. The putty sets up in 10 minutes and is really hard once it sets.
The water tank in my flathead powered Land Speed Race Car started to leak along one of the welds I found a long crack developing in the weld. This discovery was at the race track I had no way to weld repair the tank. I used the Locktite putty problem was solved I continued to use the tank with the putty patch the rest of the year the stuff works great.
Click to expand...

Thanks Ron,
It doesn't seem like a true weld, your right. It almost looks like its fusion formed somehow. Mike and I have been messing with some flathead powered stuff and my dad can't deal with it! We will try the loctite epoxy. Hope all is well and thanks for the advise.
Jim
 
Hi Jim
Here's the name of the Loctite epoxy I use Metal Magic Steel 10 minute repair.
It comes in a plastic tube kind of looks like a cigar tube. To remove the epoxy when I decided to finally fix the cracked weld I had to use a propane torch to soften up the stuff. This epoxy gets rock hard even oil will not effect it pretty amazing stuff. :cool:
Ron
 
I thought the block was resistance welded? Like the way gas tanks are welded .

Furnace brazing I thought was just for socket fitted joints. Can you over lap an edge by furnace brazing the way the sides are on the block?

Last tin side I worked on had lower radiator hose bibs in the block that were in poor shape and had been brazed and soldered and epoxy smeared all over the place by the previous mechanic. Didnt leak but looked bad
 
Jim, if it can be welded, Gill Welding in Heiskell can weld it. David has state of the art equipment and lots of experience 947-4319
 
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