1937 Ford Start Up after 20 years

Pomeroy41144

Pomeroy41144

Member
I am thinking of purchasing a 1937 Ford (85hp) that has not run since 1992. The previous owner said it was a running car when it was put in storage back then. What will I need to do to this car to attempt to get it to run?

I am going to clean the fuel tank and lines. Change oil and check the radiator. New battery. New Spark plugs. I have never tried this before, so I need some help.

Don't have the car yet, but was wondering what I would be in for in the attempt to run it. I am already assuming that I will have to get the engine rebuilt, but it would be nice to see if it will actually run.

What do I need to do to attempt to run this car?

Any and all advice and info welcome.

If there is a thread already covering this, point me there please.

Thanks.

Pomeroy
 
I believe there have been two or three previous threads that covered this pretty well. Some nice complete "pre flight check lists" :) were outlined in these threads. Do a search in these new Ford Barn threads and in the archived posts carried over from old Ford Barn.
 
The biggest factor in bringing an engine back to life after a long slumber is how well it was stored. If a mouse can get into something, it will and it will make a home there. If the storage is in a damp climate, you stand a good chance of having stuck valves, rusted cylinders, or a combination. Most of the procedure you've outlined is sound for a starting point. Turning the engine by hand before trying to use the starter will let you know a lot. Generators & water pumps sometimes freeze up and need repairs. The electrical system has to be checked out for deterioration of insulation. Anything that has a place to put oil in to service it, should be serviced per the operators/owners manual.

Marvel Mystery Oil is your friend here. Dose the cylinders liberally with it before turning anything.

Kerby
 
JM 35 Sedan said:
I believe there have been two or three previous threads that covered this pretty well. Some nice complete "pre flight check lists" :) were outlined in these threads. Do a search in these new Ford Barn threads and in the archived posts carried over from old Ford Barn.
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Thanks all.

Have conducted several seaches using various search terms and still have not come up with a thread on this topic. I found my own thread.

Can some one help? Thanks.

PP
 
Take the spark plugs out and put some oil in each cylinder - with the plugs out put a big wrench on the crank nut and see if the motor will turn at all. If it seems to turn ok, turn it over by a few times. Like Rotorwrench said, there might be some valves that are stuck - you might be able to tell by turning it with the wrench while someone holds there thumb over each spark plug hole. If you feel some compression, great!. Maybe next hook up a battery and turn it to see if you have spark at the plugs, and if the starter works. If that is good you could take the top off the carb and see if it's full of junk. If it looks ok you can pour some gas in the bowl, put the top back on, put the plugs in, and try it!
There's a good chance you won't have spark, the points probably have some corrosion on them. Then you get to try your hand at taking the distributor out - it's a little hard getting your hand by the radiator to get the bolts out, but otherwise it's not a bad job.
 
Ask around for other old car owners in the area. Some one will have done this before and most likely wil be glad to help (we just love to hear them run again!).
It's very possible that the engine is a low miles rebuild, done to give the car a scond life as a hobby instead of an old beater.
 
You don't want to turn an engine that sat for years without lubricateing it. Buy an air operated parts washing gun from a parts store. Cost is in the $10.00 to $15.00 range. Take the spark plugs out and remove the air cleaner. Put the syphon hose of the gun in a quart bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and spray good down in each cylinder, open the throatle plates and spray real good down in both thoats. Remove the oil filler or breather cap and give it a couple good shots down in the valve valley. Let it sit over night and put it on gear, rock the car and see if the fan belt moves. I would mark the belt so you know how much it turns. you want it to turn about 1 turn so the valves that were closed open and spray it again and let it sit over night. This will lubricate and hopefully free the valves and soak in and around the rings to free them. Put rags over the plug holes when you turn the engine or MMO will shoot all over the place. I have done at least a dozen old Ford engines that sat 40 or 50 years and everyone of them runs perfect. The main thing is take your time and don't get in a hurry and break a ring or bend something. The master cylinder and all wheel cylinders will need to be rebuilt or replaced. The fuel tank should come off and get cleaned or it will haunt you for years. Oil the gen, distr and replace the fuel flex hose. gadgiteer@aol.com makes flex hoses that will last as long as you own the car. Look for broken wires and anything that looks bad. The car will start with the coil that is on it but in hot weather will break down start to run rough and won't start for 20 to 30 minutes when shut down. Put water pump lubricant in the water and I would turn thr water pumps by hand with the lubricant in them before starting the engine. When running the engine put a large fan up against the grill, the fans in these cars are not for long idles or long parades in hot weather. These engines run close to hot in warm weather and have poor impellers Skip in Florida skip@fordsrus.com modifies the Ford pumps with his new turbine impeller, your pumps move 65 gallons each in 5 minutes and his deliver the most of any pumps available at 110 gallons each and know one in 12 years has ever been charged for the few that needed repairs. I would drain the water and rinse the system good before starting. After you get it running drain the water and put in some strong detergent and 50 Mule Team Borax and run it until it gets good and hot, let it cool a little, drain and rinse out good. I use tap water, 2 gallons of a good perminate anti-freeze, 2 bottles of Purple Ice and a large bottle of heavy duty Barrs stop leak, the clear bottle with aluminum or copper grainulars. TAKE YOUR TIME and good luck. G.M.
 
G.M. said:
You don't want to turn an engine that sat for years without lubricateing it. Buy an air operated parts washing gun from a parts store. Cost is in the $10.00 to $15.00 range. Take the spark plugs out and remove the air cleaner. Put the syphon hose of the gun in a quart bottle of Marvel Mystery Oil and spray good down in each cylinder, open the throatle plates and spray real good down in both thoats. Remove the oil filler or breather cap and give it a couple good shots down in the valve valley. Let it sit over night and put it on gear, rock the car and see if the fan belt moves. I would mark the belt so you know how much it turns. you want it to turn about 1 turn so the valves that were closed open and spray it again and let it sit over night. This will lubricate and hopefully free the valves and soak in and around the rings to free them. Put rags over the plug holes when you turn the engine or MMO will shoot all over the place. I have done at least a dozen old Ford engines that sat 40 or 50 years and everyone of them runs perfect. The main thing is take your time and don't get in a hurry and break a ring or bend something. The master cylinder and all wheel cylinders will need to be rebuilt or replaced. The fuel tank should come off and get cleaned or it will haunt you for years. Oil the gen, distr and replace the fuel flex hose. gadgiteer@aol.com makes flex hoses that will last as long as you own the car. Look for broken wires and anything that looks bad. The car will start with the coil that is on it but in hot weather will break down start to run rough and won't start for 20 to 30 minutes when shut down. Put water pump lubricant in the water and I would turn thr water pumps by hand with the lubricant in them before starting the engine. When running the engine put a large fan up against the grill, the fans in these cars are not for long idles or long parades in hot weather. These engines run close to hot in warm weather and have poor impellers Skip in Florida skip@fordsrus.com modifies the Ford pumps with his new turbine impeller, your pumps move 65 gallons each in 5 minutes and his deliver the most of any pumps available at 110 gallons each and know one in 12 years has ever been charged for the few that needed repairs. I would drain the water and rinse the system good before starting. After you get it running drain the water and put in some strong detergent and 50 Mule Team Borax and run it until it gets good and hot, let it cool a little, drain and rinse out good. I use tap water, 2 gallons of a good perminate anti-freeze, 2 bottles of Purple Ice and a large bottle of heavy duty Barrs stop leak, the clear bottle with aluminum or copper grainulars. TAKE YOUR TIME and good luck. G.M.
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Thanks a lot GM!!!

Thanks to all for the advice.

PP
 
Rotorwrench touched on this but a little more may help . The ******-rear end probably have some condensation sitting under the gear lube and as soon as you let the clutch out once running you will have a milk shake on your hands . The rear won't do this until you drive it . I like to pull ALL drain plugs & let stuff drain for a day or two . Refill according to spec & I also put 4 oz of S.A.E. 140 into the u-joint cavity { speedo gear hole works well for this } so your driveshaft bearing , u-joint , rear ****** bearing & speedo stuff aren't starved for lube . I always use S.A.E. 140 in u-joints anyway & 4 oz IS FACTORY SPEC on filling the u-joint cavity . Many are now touting cornhead grease & that is fine but you have no clue as to what kind of lube is-was in there & the 140 will thin whatever concotion is in there . Not so sure mixing urea based cornhead grease with unknown lube is a good idea . On the motor thing 20 years of sitting is a short nap compared to some & it also means it was PROBABLY run with detergent oil but I would still look under the fuel pump stand to see how much crud is in there . If 37's have the giant drain plug this should let you take a peek in the pan . Again 1992 probably means good modern lube in stuff but I'd check the crud factor as there are drain-feed holes in the motor that plug easily . Good Luck . PS E-85 cleaned out a couple gas tanks well for me .
 
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great advice, GM....didn't realize those Borax people use 50 mules now...lazy mules...lol....always good to read people's advice....Mike
 
Mike I have some 20 MT on the shelf. I guess they still make it. Back in the old days everyone used Okite even radiator shops. It was sold in the soap area in the grocery store but they banned that a number of years ago. Okite really clean the cooling systems good. G.M.
 
I am going to be trying this same thing real soon with my 20 year dormant 1937 Ford.

Does anybody have anymore to add to this discussion?

Thanks.

TM
 
TonyM said:
I am going to be trying this same thing real soon with my 20 year dormant 1937 Ford.

Does anybody have anymore to add to this discussion?

Thanks.

TM
Click to expand...

Hey Tony,
Just words of encouragement to add to all this good advice.
A guy I know scrounges around the deserts for old iron. Couple years ago, he 'found' a '40 ford coupe. Body was preserved amazingly solid with the great faded paint patina. It reportedly sat outside for decades without care of any kind. Well, the engine would not turn so, this guy took the flathead out of the car and disassembled/cleaned/adjusted/honed/etc/etc. I met him driving it to a rod shop meeting/bbq gettogether. This car's engine ran great / quiet and he drives it everyday/everywhere. So, since your find was stored inside..you may have found a jewel,eh:)
 
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From my "How Clean Is My Valley" post:

Go ahead and remove the intake mainfold.

If it looks like mine did, dig out what you can, remove oil drain plug & put a catch pan underneath. Use a $10 garden sprayer full of solvent.

Spray, catch, filter through a T-shirt, re-spray. Repeat. Repeat. Repeat..........

The oil pan will probably have the same goo as the valley, so plan on lowering or removing it and de-gooping it, too.

If you are like me, plan on 3x the time you think it will take.

Good luck tot he both of us!!
 

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hi im looking for a braket uggage rack for a 1937 ford roadster , just the brackets or pictures please !! i have the big rack but noo teh brackets , also looking for the nuts ??
the are on top of the windshield to hold the top .i dont know how spain . are 3 .look like "bolts " also someone have pictures , about my car ,is really hard to find 1937 roadster deluxe . thanks !!!
 
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