1937 coupe condenser - engine pulse

D

Dameon Hubbard

Member
Okay you Yoda like wise peoples. The third coil has now been put in my coupe. The first coil when dated 2009 (reconditioned by Skip) died not long after arriving in Australia. The replacement dated 2019 (reconditioned by Skip) died after two weeks (could I be doubly unlucky?). New coil (reconditioned by skip) with 1 year warrantee now fitted.

The distributor has been completely re done.

So I set about testing everything in every way with a multi meter. No shorts anywhere. 6.4v out of the 6v (brand new) battery to the brand new ballast resistor. 3.3v going into the coil points open and when the points come together 6.31v to the coil.

Oddly the condenser had a 1mm hole drilled into the brass insulated centre and a 1mm copper wire inserted from the and soldered to the outer case???? I removed this.

Makes the condenser insulation pointless?

Anywho, I have a replacement condenser in the post arriving within a week.

With the old condenser fitted (removed dodgy bit) the car started as soon as I touched the starter button but now there is a pulse in the engine revs at idle. This wasn't there before.

Will a buggerd condenser cause this?

Beautiful big spark the plugs.

Dameon.
 
Get a NAPA FA-49 condenser that has a ground strap that goes to the top passenger side distributor bolt and a screw that holds it to the hot primary connection on the correct 37-41 (Haney rebuilt) coil. Who redid the distributor? Was it someone who had experience with these distributors and hopefully a machine to set it up on? If you leave the switch in the ON position without the engine running you will usually burn up the coil, whether or not Skip rebuilt it.
 
If there was a wire from the condenser center isolated terminal to the case this would short the condenser and the engine would not start!
 
Terry said:
If there was a wire from the condenser center isolated terminal to the case this would short the condenser and the engine would not start!
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Thats exactly why we thought and yet it worked, for as long as the guy in the US was working on it (1 year) and as long as it was originally going here (Australia) before the coil died (6 weeks). It makes no sense whatsoever.
 
deuce_roadster said:
Get a NAPA FA-49 condenser that has a ground strap that goes to the top passenger side distributor bolt and a screw that holds it to the hot primary connection on the correct 37-41 (Haney rebuilt) coil. Who redid the distributor? Was it someone who had experience with these distributors and hopefully a machine to set it up on? If you leave the switch in the ON position without the engine running you will usually burn up the coil, whether or not Skip rebuilt it.
Click to expand...
So it turns out (when I look properly through the paperwork) that the dizzy hasn't been reconditioned after all though its looks perfect in the there (points gap look clean and correct). The car (recently) when the coil is good runs like a top, absolutely perfect. This time for some strange reason there is that slight pulse in the revs. I'm hoping that the replacement condenser will sort it out. I have not left that starter switch on for any extended period whist the car is not running.
 
Check the resistance of the spark plug wires should be nearly Zero ohms each, adjust Carb. idle mixture for smoothest idle and highest vacuum. make sure vacuum is about 20 and steady.
 
Terry said:
Check the resistance of the spark plug wires should be nearly Zero ohms each, adjust Carb. idle mixture for smoothest idle and highest vacuum. make sure vacuum is about 20 and steady.
Click to expand...
The spark plug wires are brand spanking new so I doubt there is an issue there. I have replaced or reconditioned practically everything on this car. Carb was re done and normally runs perfectly.
 
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