1936 Transmission Mount
- Thread starter NormC
- Start date
flatheadfan
Well-known member
Normc
One of the problems with pre-'37 Ford cars was the transfer of engine
vibrations to the interior of the car. This is because the rear
transmission mount was nothing more that a piece of rubber sandwiched to
a stamped steel rear transmission bearing retainer. The six bolts that
held the mount to the transmission were not rubber insulated from the
transmission which was bolted directly to the engine. So any vibrations
the engine generated were transferred to the transmission which
transfered the vibrations directly to the frame which in turn was felt
by the occupants of the car.
Ford recognize this was a problem and in late '36 changed things and produced a rear mount that was somewhat similar to the front engine mount. They evidently liked the results, so much so, that they modified this new mount and made it standard for '37-'40 models. In '41 they changed the design some more but the basic idea remained the same.
For the '35-'36 folks who want to take advantage of this change they can re-engineer their car by removing the old two platform mounts of the '35-'36 and insert a '37-'40 mount. It is not particularly complicated and the results are super. One trip around the block and you will be sold!
Enclosed are some pictures of the late '36 mount, the '37-'40 mount and the late mount in my '35.
Hope this helps.
Tom
One of the problems with pre-'37 Ford cars was the transfer of engine
vibrations to the interior of the car. This is because the rear
transmission mount was nothing more that a piece of rubber sandwiched to
a stamped steel rear transmission bearing retainer. The six bolts that
held the mount to the transmission were not rubber insulated from the
transmission which was bolted directly to the engine. So any vibrations
the engine generated were transferred to the transmission which
transfered the vibrations directly to the frame which in turn was felt
by the occupants of the car.
Ford recognize this was a problem and in late '36 changed things and produced a rear mount that was somewhat similar to the front engine mount. They evidently liked the results, so much so, that they modified this new mount and made it standard for '37-'40 models. In '41 they changed the design some more but the basic idea remained the same.
For the '35-'36 folks who want to take advantage of this change they can re-engineer their car by removing the old two platform mounts of the '35-'36 and insert a '37-'40 mount. It is not particularly complicated and the results are super. One trip around the block and you will be sold!
Enclosed are some pictures of the late '36 mount, the '37-'40 mount and the late mount in my '35.
Hope this helps.
Tom
Attachments
Last edited:
Lawson Cox
Well-known member
flatheadfan explains the matter very well. I would only state that if you change the
transmission mount to the later 37-40 style, you will have to figure out a way to mount the emergency brake lever as it bolts to the transmission for 35-36 where in late 36 and up, the emergency brake handle mounts on the driver's side, under the dash.
transmission mount to the later 37-40 style, you will have to figure out a way to mount the emergency brake lever as it bolts to the transmission for 35-36 where in late 36 and up, the emergency brake handle mounts on the driver's side, under the dash.
I guess that I will add this modification to the "List" of things to do.
mrtexas
Well-known member
Not true for my 36 woodie. I was still able to use the stock e brake mount while using a 37-40 rear trans mount.
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
No, you don't need to change the bearing retainer. Keep the original '35-'36 bearing retainer assembly, with its internal rubber mount, and its two hole mounting provision for e-brake handle as shown in Tom's fourth picture above. Just change to the '37-'40 frame mount that is normally riveted in place and use two rubber donuts like the ones at front of engine.
Last edited:
Any suggestions on how best to locate (within the frame) the '37-'40 ****** mount. Currently the engine and trans are out of the car with the original '36 mounts still in the frame. Does the '37-'40 mount share any of the same holes with the '36 mounts to allow for easy locating? I realize I'll probably need to drill new holes, just wondering what's the best method for making sure the mount is positioned in the frame correctly. Also, any tips on re-riveting this in? Source for the rivets? I've watched you tube videos on rivet setting; heat, gloves, air hammer and some poor sole to hold the 'anvil' or whatever you call it to hold the rivet in while hammering on it.
mrtexas
Well-known member
Here is how I did it using a 37 rear trans mount. I used the Richard Lacy provided cable routing tube/bracket/cable to use the standard 36 ebrake mount. The cable tube allow you to tie into a 40 ebrake cable going to each rear wheel. Tom I borrowed your picture as it would be a big job to take a new one on my car.
take out one of these on each side
put in this
ebrake is still bolted to 36 bearing retainer
Richard Lacy provided cable routing tube/bracket/cable to use the standard 36 ebrake mount.
take out one of these on each side
put in this
ebrake is still bolted to 36 bearing retainer
Richard Lacy provided cable routing tube/bracket/cable to use the standard 36 ebrake mount.
Last edited:
I just checked it out, looks pretty straight forward. Also looks like you retained the original '36 rear bearing retainer.
Here is how I did it using a 37 rear trans mount. I used the Richard Lacy provided cable routing tube/bracket/cable to use the standard 36 ebrake mount. The cable tube allow you to tie into a 40 ebrake cable going to each rear wheel. Tom I borrowed your picture as it would be a big job to take a new one on my car.
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
When I did this conversion on a '35 tudor sedan about 10 yrs ago, I had the body off the frame and the engine and transmission removed. Basically the frame was stripped bare and on jack stands. To attempt this on a completely assembled car, or even a completely assembled frame with just the body off, would be nearly impossible, at least in my opinion.
Last edited: