1936 steering column upgrade
- Thread starter aandkt
- Start date
johndee138
Well-known member
I put a 37 unit in mine. I had to redrill steering shaft location for the ignition lock to work. There is a tutorial I found online that I may still have the link to if you can't find it. Works WAY better than the stock unit. The hardest part was drilling out the rivets for the 36 steering mount. Drake has a replacement 37 and up bracket that you will have to use.
Last edited:
blucar
Well-known member
I have '40 steering gear in my '36, which is the same size, length as a '37-40. I used a '40 column because I have a column shift trans, only alteration was to re-position the column drop by about 1/2" which required re-drilling the lock hole in the column.
If you are replacing the steering gear do as 'jondee1' suggested.. Any '37-39 column jacket will work if you want to keep the headlight switch on the steering wheel.
I upgraded my lights to a pull switch on the dash and a floor mounted dimmer switch.
If you are replacing the steering gear do as 'jondee1' suggested.. Any '37-39 column jacket will work if you want to keep the headlight switch on the steering wheel.
I upgraded my lights to a pull switch on the dash and a floor mounted dimmer switch.
johndee138
Well-known member
aandkt, YOU are in luck! I still had the tutorial
www.goldengatev8.org/tips/SteeringGearSwap35-36/SteeringGearSwap.htm
My only suggestion for the bracket removal is sharp drill bits, perhaps a small zip wheel set up or judicious use of a cutting torch , or all of the above. It wasn't the easiest place to get to and I didn't want to dick up any surrounding areas with aggressive demolition techniques. It'll turn loose but not without a fight.
www.goldengatev8.org/tips/SteeringGearSwap35-36/SteeringGearSwap.htm
My only suggestion for the bracket removal is sharp drill bits, perhaps a small zip wheel set up or judicious use of a cutting torch , or all of the above. It wasn't the easiest place to get to and I didn't want to dick up any surrounding areas with aggressive demolition techniques. It'll turn loose but not without a fight.
blucar
Well-known member
I changed the steering gear assembly and frame mount with the engine in the car. The large rivets that secure the mount to the frame are very difficult to get to, I used a small cutting torch to burn off the heads, any damage to the original mount is unimportant because it is going to be discarded. I used 5/16" grade 8 bolts to secure the '40 bracket to the frame. Put a few spot welds on the mount for insurance.
I used a '40 pitman arm #21-A 3590-3 015, the '36 pitman hung down to low. No modifications to the steering drag links, etc., were required.
The '37-40 steering gear assembly makes a '36 very user friendly, especially when parallel parking.
I used a '40 pitman arm #21-A 3590-3 015, the '36 pitman hung down to low. No modifications to the steering drag links, etc., were required.
The '37-40 steering gear assembly makes a '36 very user friendly, especially when parallel parking.
richard crow
Well-known member
37-39 if you want to use the light rod .you can adpt. the 36 column it,s ez .the hole in the 40 shaft is to small for the light rod. no mod needed to steering linkage use the 36 pitman arm