1936 rear in a 32 chassis

Since this thread began with me I thought perhaps I should chime in again.... As always, I'm most grateful to all who are willing to take their valuable time to help resolve anothers inquires. If I'm reading correctly it looks as if the 36 rear & 36 bones with a straight spring will center in the wheel well identical to the 32 rear & 32 bones with a 32 bent spring. However, I understand the spring will need grinding & leaf adjustment for fitment & ride height as well as the bones tweeked to tie in at the drive shaft or a crossmenber of some sort. Now ....with regards to the forementioned, am I correct in assuming a 32 drive shaft will mate to the 36 rear & a closed drive transmission in a original 'K' member without modification ? Thanks again, Ron
 
Not really, Ron. The 36 with straight spring will actually place the rear axle to the rear about 1/2-3/4". It will be centered in the opening. On a stock 32 with fenders, the axle is a bit forward of the wheel opening center.
Now, re the driveshaft torque tube: Early 32 rear axles have a round flange where the torque mounts to the center section (same a Model A). Late 32 and others have a scalloped flange, so this must be considered.
Jim
 
Thanks Jim, I'll need to check my parts, I know I've several rears & drive shafts, although the overall length may determine my course of action.
 
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Now ....with regards to the forementioned, am I correct in assuming a 32 drive shaft will mate to the 36 rear & a closed drive transmission in a original 'K' member without modification ?

Not only is the '32 TORQUE TUBE incompatible with the later "scalloped" flange torque tubes, the DRIVE SHAFT is a totally different animal. The '32 driveshaft goes all the way into the banjo and the pinion is mounted ON the driveshaft. On the later rears, the pinion has its own shaft which goes out of the banjo and is joined to the driveshaft by a splined coupling. (On the late '32 to '34, the coupling is integral to the driveshaft.) The front of a '32 (or even a Model A) torque tube and drive shaft WILL mount to any closed drive transmission (Model A through '48) without modification.
 
OK ! Good info guys, I do recall the drive shaft/ pinion diffrence now that you have jogged my my brain cells... I'll sort through all these pieces & parts when the weather closes in, seems too many outdoor projects get in my way this time of the year. Ron
 
I don't mean to hi-Jack but I could use some advise. I have a '32 with an 8ab and a '39 ****** with Zephyr gears. Which is a better idea: '32 rear end and spring, '40 rear end and spring, or '40 rear end and '32 spring? Can the '40 rear brakes mount to th e'32 rear end? All this on an original '32 frame. All replies welcomed. I have all of the parts.
 
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i've never done any of the tricks mentioned above, but not mentioned is the 35 and up banjo has a longer snout where the torque tube bolts on, 9/16 longer is what i come up with, so either you shorten the tube and shaft 9/16, or the axle is that much too far back when its plugged into the ******. hope this helps, skip
 
Apparently there were two '32 rear ends; round and scalloped. The round is essentially a model A and the scalloped is late '32(?), '33/'34. So do any parts interchange between the two? Can the differential be swapped using the different bells?
 
the scalloped center is 32-34. bells all interchange, just the round flange and its drive shaft is not desireable. 33-34 rear is the same but longer tube and drive shaft
 
cas3 said:
the scalloped center is 32-34. bells all interchange, just the round flange and its drive shaft is not desireable. 33-34 rear is the same but longer tube and drive shaft
Click to expand...

The bells are not interchangeable. The OD of the mounting surface and bolt pattern is bigger on the 32-34 bells. The bigger pattern stayed from then on. The smaller pattern is Model A.
 
yes, not interchangeable with 35 and up. 34 and down is what i was talking about. model A not on the topic
 
I have a 35/36 type axle in my roadster, on a 32 spring. I made some heavy spring hangers from 3/8" or 10mm plate and added a strengthener between the plate and one backplate hole. the setup is in a lightweight roadster, and seems to be holding up well.

The previous axle was a hybrid 36/32 axle. I cut the last 6" or so off the 32 axle bells and welded them to the inner axle bells from a 36 type axle. This gave me correct 32 mounts on a 36 axle. I had to heat and bend the ends of the perches slightly to reduce the perch distance as the overall width was a tad wider than a 32. I used 41 shackle plates which are a bit longer than the stock 32 plates.

I can't do it now, but will try and find some photos.

Mart.
 
So to recap: if the spare rear end is a '32-34 I can use the early '32 bells, but the drive shaft/torque tube with that is connected to the round flange will or will not mount to the '32-34 flange. Sorry to be taking so long to sort this out but I like to look before I leap.
 
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OK then. Stand alone Model A/ early '32 versus late '32-34. No interchange at all. Well I will investigate further as to what I have. Maybe use the early version and not abuse it. Or perhaps see if the later one is usable but needs radius arms attached. is there much difference between the late '32-34 and the '40 rear ends. If I have to modify a drive shaft/torque tube for either maybe I should use the '40? No real hurry but good info offered an accepted. Thanks to all who replied.
 
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Not much strength difference between the late32-34 and the 1940. The weak link in most of the banjo rearends is the key way in the axle shaft. The axle and hub should be lapped to get the best fit and check if key slot is in good condition .
 
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