1936 rear drum not releasing

A

allenmichael

Member
I have Vintage precisions hub puller. have been following procedure ( with exception of using PB blaster rather than acetone and ATF) with no luck. Have backed off adjuster until it stopped (not sure how many clicks they offer up). Heated, hammered then put puller on . Have ony put 130 ft pouds to it as I have seen multiple differences in directions. Some say 125 ft pounds others 145?? In any event after 5 or 6 attempts still no luck. A bit hesitant on the acetone route. using MAP gass to heat up and flame control is a bit large. Heat Looking for any assistance, and specific step by step on the acetone route ie heat first , apply, or apply, then heat etc..
 
Tightening the puller to 145 or so and then striking the end of the puller bolt smartly with a heavy (4#) hammer is the way that is normally successful.
 
I've never heard torque figures quoted for the VP puller. Put a lot of torque on it and hit it with a hammer. Not soft blow, not copper, a hard steel hammer. 145 might not be enough. If you're not fearing for your own mortality as you tighten it the hub was not on tight enough.

Depending on your location you might try putting the puller on and driving in some figure 8s. Obviously drive back very gently if it does pop.

Mart.
 
I normaly back the nut to outer end of the axle and leave it there to give the threads extra support, You need to smack the puller hard and directly in line with th axle. Tim
 
That puller should have a nut that is part of it that threads over your axle threads to protect them. DO NOT USE HEAT. That’s a separate discussion just don’t use it. Tighten real tight and a HARD blow with a large steel hammer as the others have said. Keep in mind the factory nut that secures the hub on axle torques t around 200lb.
 
Not sure which nut is backed off. The nut over axle is on till it bottomed out, then backed out one turn. The puller nut is torqued to that fist nut. Are saying back off that first nut further? I have been using map gas to heat hub to draw in atf solution, prior to putting puller on. What is concern on heat? That was advised by puller mfg? Really do appreciate the help on this.
 
This is where I’m at. Are saying strike the head of the outer drive bolt?
 

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allenmichael said:
This is where I’m at. Are saying strike the head of the outer drive bolt?
Click to expand...


If the outer bolt is what's pushing against the axle end, then yes hit it hard. You need to shock the end of the axle while under a hard pull as Mart said above. Damn tight and a hard hit with a big hammer. The oil concoctions do nothing in this case-don't bother with them.
 
The thrust plate nut piece of the puller is threaded onto the end of the axle until it bottoms out and then backed off 1/2 a turn.

The puller is then assembled and the pusher bolt is tightened until the hub pops off if it doesn't pop loose at that point hit the end of the pusher with a big hammer. If it doesn't come loose, tighten the push bolt more and hit it again.

Were talking tightening with a big tool like a 1/2"breaker bar along with a pipe extension and decent sized hammer or sledge.
 
I second the point about jacking up the opposite side wheel as well. It loosens the whole thing up without the other wheel firmly on the ground. Make sure it is properly supported.
 
Thrust nut plate threaded all way on then backed off one full turn. Adjusters backed off. Car completely jacked up on jack stands. I never saw anything instructions on hammering thrust bolt to shock thrust nut plate on axle. Torqued at 145 ft odd. I guess time to hammer it. Thanks all!
 
All that and pads look same thickness as shoe plate (nothing to compare to). New pads ??. On to other side!
Again thanks to all!! Great group!!
Mike
 

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Probably not your problem but is there any chance you have "safety hubs"? Look for threaded studs coming out of the backing plate where it bolts to the axle housing. If you have safety hubs the drum will be loose on the axle but not come off without removing the studs holding the safety hub.

Charlie Stephens
 
now looking for brake shoes as passenger rears worn and soaked with oil.
any leads on where to get shoes re lined with woven pads? this is a 1936 with mechanical brakes.
awful lot of oil, not sure if grease seal is issue, possible an axle seal. Any way to make that determination?
 
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