1936 ford wiring problem

[Bruce/CT]

Hi Barners,
Just finished rewiring my 1936 Ford. RUNS GREAT!! Much thanks to Charles Schwendler's rebuilt Distributor, Tyree Harris Wiring Harness and Henry Diorio rebuilding the Generator and Starter.
I guess I almost got the install right.... EXCEPT the Ignition switch does not seem to be in the circuit at all. I must have misplaced a wire. It needs the Starter Switch to start but the Ignition Switch does NOT shut it off. Any ideas what I might have done wrong? BTW, I swapped the steering column for a 1939 also. Don't think that is the problem as removing one wire from the Ignition Switch while it was running did not shut it off.
Thanks,
Bruce/CT

 

[Mike in AZ]

are you using the floor mounted starter button?? does your hot wire to the coil come from your ignition switch??....flathead powered, etc., so original wiring diagram the way you wired it up??....Mike

 

[Bruce/CT]

Hi Mike,
All original 6 volt with a floor starter switch. I think the coil is fed by a RED wire thru the spark plug metal tube. Not certain about where that red wire with power to coil comes from but I'll check tomorrow and write back.
Thanks,
Bruce

 

[Lawson Cox]

the red wire runs from the ignition switch to the coil. I bought a new repro wire harness and that wire is dead as a door nail. No continuity at all. I had to run another wire. Bingo.

 

[Dave72dt]

Backfeed from the generator. Cutout switch faulty.

 

[Bruce/CT]

Thanks Lawson for the info but wouldn't a dead Red wire cause the engine not to run at all...My engine runs fine but the Ignition switch on the column might as well not be there
Bruce/CT

 

[Steel 35]

I am just wondering if your looks like this under the dash and does it stop if either end of this Red wire is disconnected?

 

[Old Henry]

Here are a couple of wiring diagrams that might help:

 

[TerryOH]

look at the ignition switch. It is possible the pin that moves the movable contact is not in the grove on the front of the contact. make sure not to leave the power to the coil with the engine not running.

 

[admiral1960]

Bruce,

If you have not solved this I will help you if I can.

I am retired and have unlimited long distance.

If you wish call me at 509-932-0670 or email me at allen@amichler.com

I have lot of experiance with electro-mechanical problems as I worked on IBM machines (not computers) when I was younger.

Also, if you are used to using a multimeter I would suggest this (I assume 6V + ground). Not knowing your expertise I apoligize in advance if some of what I am saying seems simple or like you do not know what you are doing. I will try to keep it simple and staright forward.

1. In the voltage measuring mode of your meter if your leads are long enough clip the positive lead to ground post wire on battery, or a good ground on the car. You can verify you have a good ground by touching the negative lead to the negative post on the battery and it should read 6V or whaterver voltage level your battery has in it.

2. Verify if possible that there is a black & red wire on one side of the ignition switch and a yellow & black wire on the othe side.

3. With ignition switch off verify that there is 6V on the yellow & black side of the ignition switch. Then check the other side with the black & red wire. If it reads zero (it should) turn the switch on and see if you now read 6V on the black & red wire side (it should). If you have 6V on the black & red wire start the engine. With the engine running and your meter lead on the black & red wire side of the ignition switch, turn the ignition switch off and see if it drops to zero or stays at 6V. If it drops to zero and the engine keeps running you have a wire misplaced somwhere as you already know.

4. If you have 6V on both sides of the ignition switch with it turned off, the ignition switch is shorted or there is a wire in the wrong place further downstream. If you have 6V on both sides of the ignition switch when in the off position remove the black & red wire and see if the wire still has 6V on it. If it does the problem is of course further downstream. If not check the post you removed the black & red wire from and if it has 6V on it then the switch is shorted and needs work.

Remove the Yellow & black wire from the other post and using the ohm meter function of your meter check the switch to verify it being shorted. Before checking you switch with the ohm meter remove the ground strap from the battery so yoiu do not risk frying your meter.

5. If it turns out the switch is OK go to the resistance unit (after reconnecting the ignition switch wires and the battery). There should be three wires on it. The black & red wire from the ignition swiitch , the black & green wire from the oil & fuel gauges and a red wire from the coil. With the ignition switch off check for 6V on the terminal posts of the resistance unit. If there is 6V on the reistance unit with the ignition switch off remove the the three wires from the resistance unit and see which wire has 6V on it. you should be able to trace the 6V back to its source.


If this does not make sense I an willing to help over the phone.

Have a good day !!!