1936 Ford steering column
- Thread starter JPBremis
- Start date
deuce lover
Well-known member
One just came up for sale in the For Sale section.Placing you ad in the wanted section might get better results.
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
I am not sure what you want. Do you want a new original 1936 box? A 1937 to about 1939 box is a good upgrade or did you mean "street rod" (ugh)? These are questions to answer before you place an ad in the wanted section.
Charlie Stephens
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Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
John,
What do you have now (can it be rebuilt?)? Is the car a driver or a restoration? The steering underwent a major internal design change in 1937 and a lot of the guys make the minor modifications needed to use the later steering. I am the wrong guy for the details but I hope someone else will step in. If not, start searching the archives.
Charlie Stephens
What do you have now (can it be rebuilt?)? Is the car a driver or a restoration? The steering underwent a major internal design change in 1937 and a lot of the guys make the minor modifications needed to use the later steering. I am the wrong guy for the details but I hope someone else will step in. If not, start searching the archives.
Charlie Stephens
Charlie Stephens
Well-known member
So this doesn't come across as a big job I would like to explain it means drilling out the old bracket and bolting in the new one (from 1937-40). These brackets are available used and also reproduced by Bob Drake (http://www.bobdrake.com/ItemForm.aspx?Item=78-5104). I have not seen his reproduction brackets in person but they look good in the catalog. Does anyone know about the column length or other problems?
Charlie Stephens
flatheadfan
Well-known member
Charlie this can be a BIG job, especially on '36s.
On several '36 frames (I haven't found it on a '35), Ford decided to put a spot weld to hold the bracket to the frame channel in addition to the four rivets. Breaking the weld can be a nightmare. From my experience I haven't found a simple way to do it. Heat, chisel, sawing. grinding and drilling there is just no sure way. You just gotta be persistent. The spot weld seems to be located near the rear rivet. Unfortunately, there is no visible evidence on the frame top as to where it is located.
Tom
On several '36 frames (I haven't found it on a '35), Ford decided to put a spot weld to hold the bracket to the frame channel in addition to the four rivets. Breaking the weld can be a nightmare. From my experience I haven't found a simple way to do it. Heat, chisel, sawing. grinding and drilling there is just no sure way. You just gotta be persistent. The spot weld seems to be located near the rear rivet. Unfortunately, there is no visible evidence on the frame top as to where it is located.
Tom
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flatheadfan
Well-known member
castiron-
Respectively, I am going to disagree with Tardel on his solution. If you drill a new top hole you will be effectively raising the steering gear and as a result you can't install the left hand flathead exhaust manifold. However, you can do this if you are going to drop a Chevy engine in. Been there and done that.
Tom
Respectively, I am going to disagree with Tardel on his solution. If you drill a new top hole you will be effectively raising the steering gear and as a result you can't install the left hand flathead exhaust manifold. However, you can do this if you are going to drop a Chevy engine in. Been there and done that.
Tom
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I am putting a 39 steering column in my 36 car. It's been several years now since I tried fitting this. If I remember correctly my 39 bracket holes will not line up with the frame.... or maybe it was that the bracket doesn't match the steering box.
My question: Is there a bracket that will fit a 39 steering box and a 36 frame without drilling a new hole.
Thanks,
Bruce
My question: Is there a bracket that will fit a 39 steering box and a 36 frame without drilling a new hole.
Thanks,
Bruce
flatheadfan
Well-known member
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
I thought I would add my 2 pennies on this.
First, if the '36 steering box is built, adjusted and lubed correctly, it is a good box that is not all that difficult to steer with. JMHO
As much as I respect Vern Tardel, I agree with Tom on drilling an extra hole in the top lug of the '37 to '39 steering box. We recently tried doing this on a stock '36 Phaeton and the later box interfered with the left side exhaust manifold. There was no other position on that '36 frame bracket, that we could find, to mount that later box that would give a three bolt mounting with a correct steering column mounting at dash. So at that point we began removal of the '36 mounting bracket to bolt in a '37-'40 bracket. We used a Bob Drake repro bracket that is an identical copy of the original. Removing the '36 bracket on a completely assembled car was a real challenge. The rivets were a SOB to remove and that one weld was a bear to break loose. Once that nasty job was completed the new bracket and complete '37 steering column bolted right in. This car does steer really well now.
I would strongly suggest that if your car is apart and you plan to do this conversion, remove that old bracket before you start putting the car back together.
One thing to consider though, a knowledgeable judge on a show field can usually see the difference in these gear boxes and points will be deducted on your score sheet.
I have made this change on one of my '35's that is being built into a traditional hot rod and also plan to change my '35 5w coupe that will be a driver. I would never consider changing my Rouge Class fordor sedan Avatar car.
First, if the '36 steering box is built, adjusted and lubed correctly, it is a good box that is not all that difficult to steer with. JMHO
As much as I respect Vern Tardel, I agree with Tom on drilling an extra hole in the top lug of the '37 to '39 steering box. We recently tried doing this on a stock '36 Phaeton and the later box interfered with the left side exhaust manifold. There was no other position on that '36 frame bracket, that we could find, to mount that later box that would give a three bolt mounting with a correct steering column mounting at dash. So at that point we began removal of the '36 mounting bracket to bolt in a '37-'40 bracket. We used a Bob Drake repro bracket that is an identical copy of the original. Removing the '36 bracket on a completely assembled car was a real challenge. The rivets were a SOB to remove and that one weld was a bear to break loose. Once that nasty job was completed the new bracket and complete '37 steering column bolted right in. This car does steer really well now.
I would strongly suggest that if your car is apart and you plan to do this conversion, remove that old bracket before you start putting the car back together.
One thing to consider though, a knowledgeable judge on a show field can usually see the difference in these gear boxes and points will be deducted on your score sheet.
I have made this change on one of my '35's that is being built into a traditional hot rod and also plan to change my '35 5w coupe that will be a driver. I would never consider changing my Rouge Class fordor sedan Avatar car.
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