1936 Ford Big Truck Project

luisv

Member
Hello everyone! New member here as I just picked up a new project. We purchased a 1936 Ford 1 1/2 Ton Truck. sorry about the photos, the first few are the photos from the sale ad. Here's the new toy:

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The truck is currently running. Trans, brakes, differential etc. are all good and the truck could drive down the road if the tires were good. They are not. The truck is on the original wheels, single wheel rears. Rubber is garbage though. What I am doing is simply running the engine every couple of days just to keep things moving and the carb clean.

Initial plans are to get the body work done quickly. To that end, we already have some body panels coming our way to get the typical stuff done. The lower portion of the doors, the lower back of the cab, lower cowls, fender repair ect. Once that is done, we will likely get the body painted and ready to be back on the truck. Since the whole things comes apart, it should not be a major issue. Below are a few shots of the stuff we'll deal with fast.

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Next major issue is the wheels and brakes. Since I am planning on using the truck for more than shows, I am leaning towards replacing the rear axle with something a bit more modern, for example, an 80's or 90's F350 dually rear. Same on the front, we may be bringing in the front suspension from an F350. More on that as we decide on a donor truck. Bottom line, a way to get modern juiced brakes, modern wheels and tires and a slightly more "subtle" ride than 10 inches worth of rear leaf spring will give me. :D

The truck has a Flathead Ford in it. It runs, which is awesome! I will be keeping that in there. For now, it will get on the road again, as is, paired to its 4 speed. I will do a few things, of course, initially. Fluid & filter changes, plugs and wires and fuel pump, etc. To that end, I'd like to get some more experienced eyes on this to answer some questions for me. I'll put up some questions and then some photos of the actual engine so that you all can point me in the right direction. As I go, I promise to keep folks posted on the progress!

Here goes..... :confused:

1) Casting numbers on the block don't jive. Right now I am thinking I have a 1950 to 1953 version of the engine. Am I right?


Numbers on the block, at the rear of the engine, passenger side, on the flat where the intake bolts.

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Numbers on the intake installed.

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These are shots of the engine, from each side and the fan. I shot that because I think the fan was a three blade in 1950 to 1953.

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Some more:

2) I seem to have an "extra" line going to the filter which is now cut. What was that for? Is it needed? Was it being fed from the PTO?

First mystery we have is that there seems to be some unneeded hard line coming from the oil filter. I have no idea what this is for. Here are some shots.

This is the filter image. That cut line is coming from the top fitting on the filter. There is a T-fitting there. One line comes up from the back of the engine. The second line is the cut one.

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Here you see the T-Fitting on the filter.

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Below is the origin pf the top line of the oil filter.

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The line leaving the bottom of the the filter heads down past the exhaust and into the oil pan.

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The question here: Can I simply remove that cut line? If not, where would it normally go?

3) On the heads I have two sensors (plug with electrical connections) that are connected to each other and I have a valve on the passenger side. What are those? What is the vent for? Bleeding air out of the cooling system?

There are a couple of sensors on the top of the heads. I would assume they are water temp sensors. Don't know why there would be two... The other is a shutoff or valve of some sort. What are these? A fitting to bleed air out of the cooling system?

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4) Vacuum line to the distributor cap is disconnected. Where would that normally go?


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5) Fuel pump. It is currently not connected. The thing is being gravity fed from a small tank. When I removed the pump, there is simply a hole down into the block. There is no push rod. I can get that, not a problem, but I don't see a bushing or way to keep that rod in place. Any idea/comments on that? Is there a bushing that should be there?


Shots from a few angles....

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the engine you have in the truck is an EAB- 1952 engine. the two plugs with electrical connections are for an electric temp gauge that would be in a 52 model car, your temp gauge is mechanical, the oil line for the filter comes out of the block to the filter-usually a tee in this line with an electrical connection to an electrical oil pressure gauge and one going into the top of the filter, bottom line on filter goes to block just above the oil pan--do you have another line coming off the tee-maybe a mechanical oil pressure gauge? line in your hand is a vacuum line that was suppossed to be connected to the back of carb-up about mid way and sort of an an angle-appears fuel pump push rod is gone for some reason--you can put one in from the top with just removing the fuel pump--make sure pump diapram is not blown gas will get into oil if it is--take a picture showing the tee on the oil filter and post them a little smaller if you can--
 
As prodomantly a resoration site here we would encourage you to keep the Axles as is and fix everthing so it works, theres plenty of advice here .The brakes can be dealt with .here's a shot of a driver 34 ,this tailed us in Australia while at the national meet 50MPH no problem .
 

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the engine you have in the truck is an EAB- 1952 engine. the two plugs with electrical connections are for an electric temp gauge that would be in a 52 model car, your temp gauge is mechanical, the oil line for the filter comes out of the block to the filter-usually a tee in this line with an electrical connection to an electrical oil pressure gauge and one going into the top of the filter, bottom line on filter goes to block just above the oil pan--do you have another line coming off the tee-maybe a mechanical oil pressure gauge? line in your hand is a vacuum line that was suppossed to be connected to the back of carb-up about mid way and sort of an an angle-appears fuel pump push rod is gone for some reason--you can put one in from the top with just removing the fuel pump--make sure pump diapram is not blown gas will get into oil if it is--take a picture showing the tee on the oil filter and post them a little smaller if you can--

Alan.... Thanks!

OK... So I have this straight....

1952 EAB Flathead, most likely a donor engine from a car.

The truck has no gauges so I will simply replace the sensors with a single sensor on one of the heads, and plug the other two holes. (Sensor on passenger side and the valve)

On the T for the inlet to the oil filter, there is no electrical connector. So I will assume, as you mention, that it is a mechanical oil pressure gauge. I think the trucks had mechanical oil and water temp. Below is the better photo of the T connector. One line come off the engine, near the bell housing (another photo with that) and the cut line is the second input into the T.

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These next shots are the carb from all the angles I could get. I did not see a vacuum line connection there. I may be missing something, but I cannot see it. In any event, you might be able to tell me is this is the right carb to begin with. I know it is a replacement because it's marked with "good" in permanent marker on the back. Likely from a junkyard.

Passenger side......

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Driver's Side.....

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Since it's running, I want to just set this up properly. Once the car is back on the road and usable, I will begin the "upgrades". I'll give it the once over to decide what we'll do. Full rebuild, head swap, intake swap, new carb, etc. etc. etc. But for now... I'm just looking to get it road worthy and not have 5 or 6 things hanging around loose needlessly.

THANKS AGAIN!
 
luisv. I agree with Flathead Ted! Don't ruin (or Ruona) it! I have a 4 cyl BB that cruises at 50 with the 5:14 axle. The last owner of your truck has told me many times that a vehicle is a system, and once you start changing things, it will affect other functions down the line.
 
I think the other T you have in the cooling system is to direct hot water to an in-cab heater. Turn it on in the winter, off in the summer.
 
The EAB was the '52 and '53 Ford car engine. The narrow-belt staggered water pumps were used from '50-'53 F/M. If your pumps have mount "ears", they're '50-'51 Mercury. If angled lower mounts, they're '50-'53 Ford/'52-'53 Mercury. Oil pan may be have been changed to a '49-'51 Merc or '48-'52 truck.
Your carb is a Stromberg 81, used on '37-'39 V8 60s. The correct carb is an 8BA Holley 94 with the port on the rear for the loadomatic distributor vacuum line, now disconnected. As it sits now, you have no distributor advance, because the loadomatics have vacuum-only advance, with no mechanical.
 
lot of guys like the 81 stromberg for front and back of a three carb set-up, carbs for your engine are easy to find, there was suppossed to be a round (2" dia) electrical sender mounted to the tee-but I think someone removed it a tried to put a mechanical connection to it. I would buy a cheap oil pressure gauge and attach it to the tee where the pinched off line it and then you can know what you oil pressure is. tell us where you are--might be an old barner around you willing to help a new barner with some advice
 
As prodomantly a resoration site here we would encourage you to keep the Axles as is and fix everthing so it works, theres plenty of advice here .The brakes can be dealt with .here's a shot of a driver 34 ,this tailed us in Australia while at the national meet 50MPH no problem .

I'll be honest. .. If we could keep it original, we'd love that. We love the look of the original wheels and setup of the truck. As our good friend and consultant on these projects (we have a 1977 Corvette resto-mod in the works) tells us... there is just a "cool factor" about the original truck, its flathead V8 and banjo rear end. We also get a kick out of the mechanical brakes, etc.

Here's the deal though... We plan to use the truck. It will not be a "show" truck or trailer queen. Hell, it may trailer a car to a show... :D. As a result, safety and useability comes into play. The three main things that are having us lean towards the axle swaps are:

The Wheels. The wife (as she will log in and confirm) does not want to be a widow. At least I think...:rolleyes: The the split ring, widow makers have to go. Are there modern wheels, with the right bolt pattern, out there with a similar look? If I can be more of a pain, something in a standard modern size? Say a 20"?

Brakes. What is the solution? (I'll search around here for that)

Differential. What gearing can I get so the truck is usable today? Ie, say that will let me maintain 55 MPH...

If we can get that safe... We're cool with keeping it original...
 
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The EAB was the '52 and '53 Ford car engine. The narrow-belt staggered water pumps were used from '50-'53 F/M. If your pumps have mount "ears", they're '50-'51 Mercury. If angled lower mounts, they're '50-'53 Ford/'52-'53 Mercury. Oil pan may be have been changed to a '49-'51 Merc or '48-'52 truck.
Your carb is a Stromberg 81, used on '37-'39 V8 60s. The correct carb is an 8BA Holley 94 with the port on the rear for the loadomatic distributor vacuum line, now disconnected. As it sits now, you have no distributor advance, because the loadomatics have vacuum-only advance, with no mechanical.

I went to check the pumps. As far as I can see, there are no "tabs" coming off to the sides of the pump. There are three bolts attaching it to the block around the pulley and then there seems to be a "C" shaped bracket (assuming these are the angled lower brackets) mounting to the cross member. So these are '50-'53

I may swap the carb or....

lot of guys like the 81 stromberg for front and back of a three carb set-up, carbs for your engine are easy to find, there was suppossed to be a round (2" dia) electrical sender mounted to the tee-but I think someone removed it a tried to put a mechanical connection to it. I would buy a cheap oil pressure gauge and attach it to the tee where the pinched off line it and then you can know what you oil pressure is. tell us where you are--might be an old barner around you willing to help a new barner with some advice

...so putting both comments together re: the carbs... what would be the options? Say if I wanted to do a three carb setup, I would get a second Stromberg and then a Holley between them to control the advance? Obviously, I realize the intake would be changed.... :cool:

Love the idea on the oil pressure gauge. So I'll go and get a small gauge and put that up there... Thanks!


BTW.... I am in South Florida. I am in the western part of Miami.
 
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I think the other T you have in the cooling system is to direct hot water to an in-cab heater. Turn it on in the winter, off in the summer.


Scott.... Thanks... so I'm in Florida. On a great year we may get to 40 degrees for two days in the winter! :) So these are coming off. I'll plug the threaded locations and leave one with a temp sensor that we will run to the dash eventually.
 
when was the EAC headed engine used? I have several old trucks, 41's, 3/4 ton and a 1 1/2, just sold a 51 1 1/2 ton truck and almost bought a 36. there are some rims on a dodge motor home, not sure of year, but they will be tubeless so probably 22"?. You can find from late model Ford trucks a differential, to make it go faster and may even be able to change out front drums to disc brakes from a truck but that will require some work-hell of a lot of work. the guy who bought the 36 is going to use a 51 firetruck chassis parts, axles' etc as an upgrade
 
We did a run of brake floater for these models some years back we still have a few sets left .

I'll be honest. .. If we could keep it original, we'd love that. We love the look of the original wheels and setup of the truck. As our good friend and consultant on these projects (we have a 1977 Corvette resto-mod in the works) tells us... there is just a "cool factor" about the original truck, its flathead V8 and banjo rear end. We also get a kick out of the mechanical brakes, etc.

Here's the deal though... We plan to use the truck. It will not be a "show" truck or trailer queen. Hell, it may trailer a car to a show... :D. As a result, safety and useability comes into play. The three main things that are having us lean towards the axle swaps are:

The Wheels. The wife (as she will log in and confirm) does not want to be a widow. At least I think...:rolleyes: The the split ring, widow makers have to go. Are there modern wheels, with the right bolt pattern, out there with a similar look? If I can be more of a pain, something in a standard modern size? Say a 20"?

Brakes. What is the solution? (I'll search around here for that)

Differential. What gearing can I get so the truck is usable today? Ie, say that will let me maintain 55 MPH...

If we can get that safe... We're cool with keeping it original...
 

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buy the flathead ted floaters, I have put on several sets on cars and they do work great, the biggest challenge is to correctly follow the original Ford brake adjustment procedure which makes the floater work great!!
 
...so putting both comments together re: the carbs... what would be the options? Say if I wanted to do a three carb setup, I would get a second Stromberg and then a Holley between them to control the advance? Obviously, I realize the intake would be changed....
:cool:...

A good option is to swap the stock loadomatic vacuum-only distributor for a mechanical advance (possibly with optional additional vacuum advance) distributor, like a 2nd gen. Chevy point conversion, or one of several aftermarket electronic replacement distributors. This will allow any carb, multi or single, without effecting the ignition system.


:cool:...[/QUOTE]

when was the EAC headed engine used?

The EAC was '52-'53 Mercury flatheads.
 

A good option is to swap the stock loadomatic vacuum-only distributor for a mechanical advance (possibly with optional additional vacuum advance) distributor, like a 2nd gen. Chevy point conversion, or one of several aftermarket electronic replacement distributors. This will allow any carb, multi or single, without effecting the ignition system.


:cool:...

Good to know... Somebody reached out to me to work up a trade for the Stromberg and moving to the Holley. I may take that right now. Reason is that we'd like to get the truck on the road. It's running now, so if I can just get it running better but leaving it essentially as is (after a good cleaning), then I'll start there.
 
Hi guys and gals!!

I am the "wife", the one that doesnt want to become a widow! :eek: The wheels do have me a bit paranoid, but hopefully we will find a solution for them soon.

I am also the official parts buyer. I hate shopping in stores, but online shopping, I am the best! :D

So with this being said, I am out trying to get some sheetmetal pieces to make the restoration a bit easier. Trying to reduce the number of custom pieces we have to create. I have found some online sources, fordor.com (Howells Sheetmetal) and BobDrake.com have some pieces like the rear cab patch and inner/outer door. What I need to know is regarding the floor. We have the lower angled floor piece that goes over the pedals and steering column, but I am not sure what would come after the piece, in front of the fuel tank? The floor pieces I found dont seem to be correct. I think they might be for regular trucks. Was this part metal or wood? Anyone have a pic that might help?

Thanks!! Annemarie
 
in front of the fuel tank? The floor pieces I found dont seem to be correct. I think they might be for regular trucks. Was this part metal or wood? Anyone have a pic that might help?

Thanks!! Annemarie

Plywood. MAC's has it in their catalog for $120.95.
Originally stained black I believe.
Its just flat plywood, you could probably make a cardboard template and then cut your own from locally sourced plywood.
That way you can choose from pressure-treated, marine grade, cabinet grade, or just plain old CDX.
 
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