1936 3 Window Coupe

Sacramento ford makes great looking modern materials and original harnesses. Probably around $300 for a full kit, harnesses/plural. They will handle 12v later no issue (much thicker wires, really overrated for 12v) if you decide. easy call.



https://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=V-8&Category=Wiring


you are going to need:
1) cab/gauge wire harness feeds to engine.
2) harness off the steering end to lights/cab/etc.
3) rear end harness (stop light/brake switch, lights and gas tank)
4) front light crossover and horn. Pig tails.
5) coil run. (you can make this with the right stock wire and ends)
6) a few clips and bullet connectors



http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/...cs/Flathead_Electrical_wirediagram1936car.jpg



Some odds and ends you can make up. It sounds harder then it actually is. Its all color coded wires to stock. If the old harness is there, take pictures or follow when installing. if not... follow schematics and ask questions. As i mentioned you can call them also. Lots of different vendors also. Just my experience.


http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/FH_images/FH_electrical-pics/Flathead_Electrical_wiring1936.jpg


.



Never been a fan of modern looking wires in a old ford.
 
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Crabby said:
Thanks all for the suggestions! I think Narragansett was the one I was looking for. I’ll try the others, as well. Always good to have options!
I’m only thinking of the 12 volt because I’ve read that lights are brighter, faster starts, easier to jump start, if needed, etc. I’m not sold on the idea completely, yet.
I’m hopefully attaching a picture. This is before I put the hood back on.
Click to expand...

That's a very nice looking 3w coupe!! I would enjoy seeing more pics as you make progress getting it back on the road.
 
“That's a very nice looking 3w coupe!! I would enjoy seeing more pics as you make progress getting it back on the road.”
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I second what JM 35 sedan said!
Plus my .02 cents, in a car that original, 6V would definitely add to originality and value.
And if you think about it, these cars were daily drivers once, with nothing but 6 volts.
 
You might consider having turn signals built in to the wiring harness along with a passenger side tail light and perhaps a 3rd stop light. That will make installing turn signals effortless. Today's drivers don't recognize hand signals. I don't see why all the various harnesses can't be combined into one custom made harness. This would also reduce the use of the old fashioned Ford wire connectors. A 6 volt harness will work just fine for 12v. I have 3 old Fords and all are 12v. Makes buying a battery a whole lot easier.
 
mrtexas said:
You might consider having turn signals built in to the wiring harness along with a passenger side tail light and perhaps a 3rd stop light. That will make installing turn signals effortless. Today's drivers don't recognize hand signals. I don't see why all the various harnesses can't be combined into one custom made harness. This would also reduce the use of the old fashioned Ford wire connectors. A 6 volt harness will work just fine for 12v. I have 3 old Fords and all are 12v. Makes buying a battery a whole lot easier.
Click to expand...

Too right todays drivers don't recognise hand signals....they think you are being rude and want to start a "road rage incident".

GB
 
Your original 6V wiring is of a heavier gauge and is superior to what is required for a 12v system. For mine, 6V or 12V, keep as much of the existing wiring in there as you can.
 
I just received a complete harness for my 36 from Tyree,could nt be happier!I asked for turn signals in the fog lights and a wire for a electric fuel pump,both not factory but neither one was a problem.Tyree has done several harnesses for me and IS a stand up guy that knows his stuff. And I received them both,custom made in a week. ken
 
Thanks everyone! I think I’ll stick with 6volt. Anyone have any reasons to not move the battery to under the hood? I was thinking of building a bracket on the passenger side firewall. I’ve seen some like that. I plan to have a disconnect on the post, and it seems a little scary to have the battery under the floor.
 
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51728


Its a pain to get to the battery with interior. nothing scary about it though.... heat from the engine is not friendly to batteries.


you could run a later harness with a solenoid (37-39ish, with cutout, pre voltage regular) and add a button start on the dash. 36s never had a solenoid. floor stomp starter switch. Still using it myself, no issues.


if bad wiring or shorts are a concern, you could make a killswitch off the floorswitch lead to cut the battery power to the rest of the car.
 
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Crabby said:
Thanks everyone! I think I’ll stick with 6volt. Anyone have any reasons to not move the battery to under the hood? I was thinking of building a bracket on the passenger side firewall. I’ve seen some like that. I plan to have a disconnect on the post, and it seems a little scary to have the battery under the floor.
Click to expand...

There's nothing scary (IMO) about having the battery under the floor, and with a no maintenance Optima, I rarely remove the battery door/cover.
I bought a '35 5W coupe that had the battery mounted to the firewall using a home-made angle iron frame. This restricted access into the engine compartment and was one of the first things I changed back to the original mounting. Now all that remains of that mess are several ugly holes they punched in the firewall.
I've kept my 35's 6V and see no reason to change to 8V or 12V. Keeping battery terminals and ground connections clean is important.
 
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You can also buy a "drop down" battery box(Speedway sells them) that mounts to the frame and is placed under the right front fender. Don't damage the firewall with a battery box.
 
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