1935 Remote Door Lock Spring

Dennisfly

Dennisfly

Senior Member
The remote door lock spring is missing from my right door. I have a new one, but it appears that to install it, I would have to bend the keeper tabs on the mechanism and remove and reinstall the pivot/cam. Someone please tell me I'm wrong and there is an easier way!


I attempted a similar operation on the door latch and ended up breaking the tab as I don't have the capability to heat them red hot which I understand is necessary to keep from breaking them.



Since this is the door with the key lock, can't I lock the door from outside even if the remote spring is not in place, and it will still be secure?
 

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yeah, carefully bend the tabs back to replace the spring. If you lock the door using the outside lock, and the interior handle moves into the locked position, you'll not be able to unlock the door externally....so, replace that spring!
 
No you are not wrong, I replaced one on my '37 recently and used my oxy-acetylene torch to heat the tabs so they didn't break when I bent them up, and heated them again when I bent them back down.
They are made of such heavy metal that they are almost certain to break if bent cold.
 
I likewise broke a tab or tabs...very frustrating. Can't remember my solution for this, think I may have drilled a hole and created a moveable tab using screw and nut. terry
 
Brian - Thanks for the heads-up. I didn't realize I have the potential to lock myself out with no spring.

Eric and Woodiewagon - I don't have access to an Oxy/Acetylene torch, so while that is the best option, it's not one I can use unless a torch setup magically floated into my garage!

Terry - This is what I did for my door latch and I guess will probably end up doing for this remote. I believe I can just bend the tabs on one side of the pivot to gain adequate access to insert the spring.
 
Heating them is your best option but I guess you can try to bend them cold. You do not want to break the tab's off, if you do, you are opening up another can of worms.
 
Do not bend them cold... they will likely break.


If you want to ship them to me I will heat and disassemble at your risk of breakage with only charge for return shipping.
 
Are you a member of the local Early Ford V8 Club? Help is there. If Not JOIN!!!Newc
 
Karl - Thank you for the generous offer. I'm going to try to find a local source first. Failing that, I may get back to you.


Newc - The closest Early V8 Club is a 2 1/2 hour drive distant, so I chose not to join. I do belong to a Model A Club that is one hour away and I hope to find a torch there.
 
There is a solution for broken spring retaining tabs. Someone makes/sells little "U" shaped clips that fit where the tab used to be (both sides of the tab) and bend to capture the spring just like the tabs do. I dont know if you have to break both tab sides off for them to work.
Another note is about the springs. We just did the springs in my 39 latches. Ordered springs from the common suppliers...wow did they suck. Springs were not the correct length and shape. Ordered springs from Michael at First Gen and they were exact matches to my originals. Wow, are doors smooth with lubrication and springs.
 
If the spring is a reproduction, I've found that they are not equal to the original in terms of their "springiness" and can be bent just enough to install without disturbing the tabs and still have enough spring tension to hold the inside door handles in the up locked position. It's not by the book, but it worked for me.
 
Mike - I tried ordering those but they were out of stock.


David - Winner, Winner, Chicken Dinner!! I bent the end of the spring that goes into the bracket and was able to insert the spring and then bend it back to the original shape. It works fine. The yellow pointer in the picture shows the end of the spring I bent.
 

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Gotta love it! One man finds a simple solution to a tricky problem, and shares it here for the benefit of the next guy. That's what we are here for.

Now have to hope the spring doesn't lose it's tension over time.
 
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