1935 New Owner And Questions

H

hperrong

Junior Member
Well, I'm a new owner of a 1935 and I had a couple questions on the oddities of my car.
I got my electrical issue sorted, so now I need to make sure the mechanical is up to snuff.
This is an older restoration, and the engine is not stock. It is a Ford v8 flathead, but it is from the early 1940s.

So I had a bunch of questions:
1. What oil is recommended for use?
2. What would be good ranges for my panel cluster? Currently, my oil pressure is about 50, my ammeter fluctuates, and I have no idea how to read my temperature / radiator gauge? The radiator gauge appeared to have a bubble the last time I ran it but now I have nothing. Any advice?
3. How can I check my radiator level? What fluid is recommended?
4. What is the top speed of this car supposed to be? I have a three speed transmission, and on third gear at about 40 mph the engine seems to be at its maximum. It begins to "whine" out, as it seems to be at is fullest power. Is this normal, or should this be checked out? If so, please let me know what I should look at and check...

Thanks!
 
Welcome to the Barn!... Got pictures?

Oil should be multi grade detergent. You'll get differing opinions, but I like Mobil One. Choose the weight to suit your climate.
Your stated oil pressure means little without knowing the conditions under which you get that pressure. A warm engine at idle can drop pressure to 5 or 10 lbs without any difficulty. Same engine at cruising speed should show 30+lbs, so your 50 lbs should be fine.

Your temperature gage bulb sounds like it may be defective. Remove the bulb unit from the dash gage, and remove the bulb from the block. Connecting the two is a wire wrapped tube which is not separable. The dash unit should always be in a higher position than the block bulb to prevent air bubbles from formin g. Place the block bulb in a pot of water on the stove. The boiling point should show the liquid at a scribed line on the glass. These units are expensive, so take good care of it. Some will tell you they are repairable, but the replacement liquid isn't the right color and fades to clear anyway.

Check your radiator level under your radiator cap. Unless you live in a cold climate requiring antifreeze, water is the best coolant, but add an anti-corrosion package.

Top speed of your car should be somewhere over 60 mph. Don't be afraid to put the pedal to the floor, you won 't damage the engine by over reving, as the valves will float or the ignition points will float long before you would reach red line. You likely have a low ratio rear end now, which can be changed out to taller gears with some elbow grease and a good instruction book. I'd suggest a MoToRs Manual for your library, as you'll need it for lots of other stuff anyway. Buy an edition no newer than 1950, as the early information is selectively edited out in the later editions. Cost is reasonable, about $25 for a shop copy, more for a library copy.
 
I have a 1935 Ford Convertible with a 53 EAB flathead.
I live in Florida where it never gets cold so I run straight 40 wt rather than 10-40. It seems to keep the engine cooler.
Good luck on the gauges. I have had 2 35s and gauges were all ways a problem. If you drive the car I would recommend you get an aftermarket temp, oil pressure and elec cluster and mount it below the dash (you can take them out for the car shows with the purists, but at least you will have some warning signs before you blow the engine), until you can chase down what's wrong with yours.
I visually check my radiator and keep the fluid about 1/2" from the top. I run 50-50 antifreeze.
My car cruses well at 60. I have had it up to 70, but tend to get too much vibration at that speed.
I would suggest you get a copy of Dick Flynns "tech tips" if you can find one.1207 NW 73rd Seattle Wa 98117
 
1. Any good quality 30 weight non detergent oil.

2. Oil pressure looks good. Ammeters fluctuate depending on generator output, speed etc. Need more information. Temp gauge is nothing but a tube with fluid in it that reacts to temperature. Rises when hot, drops when cooler. It may be that you need to pull the gauge and put it in boiling water and run it up and down for a while to see if the bubble will disappear. While you have it out you can hang it upside down for a while (read that a few days at least) and maybe the bubble will work itself out.

3. Take off the radiator cap and take a look. Fluid level should be maintained just above the top of the tubes to allow for expansion.

4. Sounds like you have a 4:11-1 rear end. They whine a lot and are good stump pullers but not good touring gears. Top speed with these gears would be about 45-50 MPH

JMHO
 
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Welcome aboard fellow `35 owner and congratulations on your purchase. They are fun cars. I agree with Alan on his response. Personally I have used Havoline Oil in everything I own for as long as I can remember.

The temperature bulbs are a real problem if it doesn't work. From my experience originals in working order are hard to find and not cheap. Repo's are junk so you have to find someone to rebuild yours. I had mine rebuilt and the red liquid turned clear. It still works but difficult to read. I have a back-up ready to go but it has also been rebuilt. Use extreme caution replacing your unit, they are fragile.


Trust me 40 MPH isn't tops in your `35 even with the original 4:11 differential gears. Possibly you are having fuel starvation caused by a faulty fuel pump, clogged fuel line or even carburetor issues. Be suspicious of this if your `35 has been sitting for a while.

Again welcome aboard and keep us posted on your progress. Most of all enjoy your car...
 
When my stock 33 had the 4.11 gears in it would cruise at 60-65 no worries,the engine bussed a bit ,but we used to sit on 60 for hours on end going out west,
I now have 3.78 gears ,I still sit on the sam speed but it sure seems a bit happier.
Lawrie
 
Lawson Cox said:
1. Any good quality 30 weight non detergent oil...

...It may be that you need to pull the gauge and put it in boiling water and run it up and down for a while to see if the bubble will disappear. While you have it out you can hang it upside down for a while (read that a few days at least) and maybe the bubble will work itself out.
JMHO
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Lawson, Your input is usually right on the money, but I gotta tell ya, not tonight on two points:

First, your choice of oil is so 1930's! Have you checked your sludge lately?

Second, your advice to hang the temp bulb upside down is absolutely destructive and should get you sued in court. The glass bulb should NEVER be allowed to be lower than the sender bulb. Here's some advice on getting rid of air bubbles: Fasten the sender to one end of a broomstick, the glass bulb at the other, and the tube supported along the length. Swing the broomstick rapidly around your head BY THE GLASS BULB END, thereby forcing the liquid to the sender by G Force. The bubbles will find their way up toward the glass bulb end.
 
40 mph with 600x16" and 4.11:1 gears is under 2000 rpm! It's fullest power should be around 3500 ish rpm.
As Lawrie said, it should cruise at 60-65 all day. If it don't do that, something's wrong. It's a Ford V8, they had a deserved reputation as being fast cars.
Martin.
 
I have a '35 Tudor, All good info on the oil and gauges, top speed will vary with the modifications done to the engine. You indicate it's a newer motor with mods? The need for a taller rear does not necessarily require changing your rear. It can be accomplished with taller tires ( i.e. the size used on pickup truck of a similar year works. Although it does present the car with a bit of a hot rod look which I like. I have 6.00 16's up front and 7.50 16's rear. Taller tires in rear reduce rpm similar to higher gears.
Have fun with it, they are great
 
Second, your advice to hang the temp bulb upside down is absolutely destructive and should get you sued in court. The glass bulb should NEVER be allowed to be lower than the sender bulb.
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Hmm, I have a number of NOS water gauges in their Ford Boxes. I'm willing to bet NONE of them were stored or shipped with the temp bulb facing up.

As for swinging around a fragile 75 yr old brass and glass tube.......
 
OK.
Sorry for the delay in responding.
The oil was REALLY gunky. I have never seen oil this bad... it was black as tar!
In any case, I replaced the oil.

Temp gauge seems to work correctly, it is just clear. I am guessing that when the water level gets past the "normal" range it should be cause for concern.

Refilled the radiator as it was nearly empty and everything seems to be good.

So this is now my major problem:

I took this out to a fourth of july parade, and got through it, only after stalling three times.
The engine seems to stall randomly, but especially at idle or when stopped. For example, when I am at a stopsign, even letting my foot off the gas will cause a stall.

Additionally, if it makes a difference, the starter motor seems to crank really slowly and it takes many attempts to even get the thing started. Once it does, it seems to misfire or backfire for about a minute until it "warms up".

Any fixes or troubleshooting tips for this? I really want to have this engine to the point where it is not hard to start and will not stall out on me.

See the picture from the parade here:
qxccksp.jpg
 
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That is a really nice looking 35-5w ! If you can get the old gas out of it you might find it runs much better. If stored for a period of time the gas tends to gum things up. As far as starting hard the gas again could play a part.I would remove battery cables and clean where they attach as well as the ends of the cables. Make sure your cables are good heavy duty ones as originally supplied. Good luck with the old beauty !!
 
Sounds like the carb and distributor need a strip and check over. You can do these yourself, but my recommendation would be to send your dissy to Bubbas and your carb to Uncle Max, Ken CT or CharlieNY (all on this forum) to be rebuilt and set up. These guys will have your bits returned looking like gems and running like a top. Bubba did my dissy, and it's a work of art, runs like a champ.
Run modern multigrade oil. It will eventually loosen up some of the sludge, so I would change it again at 100 miles, then 500 miles, then whenever you do your normal change. Engines without an oil filter need to be changed frequently in my opinion.
BTW: beautiful 35.
 
Thanks for all your advice.
The engine is a slightly newer one (1946-7ish) so I believe it has an oil filter.
I do not think the gas is an issue, as I drained it when I got it and replaced it with a tank of Shell 87 octane regular.
 
Oh, and I forgot to mention, I was told the previous owner put in an "electric ignition", but I am unsure as to what was meant by that or what was done, or even if it matters. Any insight?
 
Even though you changed the gas, the carb could still be a bit gummed up. I to feel that you should get the carb and ignition gone through properly. Car has been sat a while, so you really should go through all the electric connections and ground points. Clean um up and make um good.
The previous fitted electronic ignition, all this does is replace the points and condenser with an electronic switching system. Some say more reliable. Lots of folk love them, so they seem to work ok. But they have had issues when combined with a generator charging system rather than an alternator system. The things they won't fix are advance system not working properly or bad timing. Just pay that in mind. The distributor should still be gone through to verify if it's doing what it should when it should. Have a look at the coil to confirm good to go.
Hope you get it sorted, those named above will geterdone.
Martin.
 
hperrong said:
Oh, and I forgot to mention, I was told the previous owner put in an "electric ignition", but I am unsure as to what was meant by that or what was done, or even if it matters. Any insight?
Click to expand...

He probably meant electronic ignition - what type of distributor is it? Crab style? Pic would help here ... regardless, if you take off the cap and you don't see points it's probably electronic, and that's a good thing in my opinion.
 
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