1935 Ford wire wheels.. What's your way?

L

Larry Jenkins

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I have 6 - 1935 Ford 16" wire wheels that have been blasted. I will pick out the best 4 of the 6.

Each of them has the usual amount of finer pitting on the wires and rims plus some larger pits on the inside of the rims. Each one appears to be pretty sound. No funds right now to buy better ones..

I think I would like to "fill" them. What method(s) do you use to restore the old 35s?

Thank you!

Larry
 
If you are really fussy, you can use a glazing compound to fill the larger pits and sand it down, but that's a lot of work. For a driver, just spray on some high build primer, maybe 2 or 3 coats, and sand. Then paint with an automotive grade enamel or urethane top coat.
Your wheels will shine like crazy and those minor imperfections won't be noticeable to anyone but yourself. After fifty miles, your wheels will be all dirty and then even you won't be able to see those little imperfections.
 
Straighten the wheels first before you paint them. There are a few threads here that explain how to do it. It is not all that hard and it will make a difference on how they drive.

Vic
 
Some time ago, someone posted a filler that had the number 10 or 15 in it. Was NOT POR-15.

I tried the search, but came up empty. Read then top post to see what I'm talking about.

Thanks!
 
Larry Jenkins said:
Some time ago, someone posted a filler that had the number 10 or 15 in it. Was NOT POR-15.

I tried the search, but came up empty. Read then top post to see what I'm talking about.

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Well, I was kinda close. I found it. PC-11.

Waterproof Marine Grade steel 2 part epoxy. Was recommended some time ago by a Barner. Seems like it would work well for my wire wheels.

Anyone tried it?

Larry
 
My favorite stuff for filling pits or pinholes is dolphin glaze from upol. its a really smooth flowing, self leveling type glaze, it sands nice too. I use it on wheels, axle housings, etc.
 
I have a set of 18 inch 1932 wheels on my Coupe. Here is my process:

> Suspend and wrap each bare wheel with a hammer. If there are no serious cracks, each wheel should ring.

> Spin test each wheel on one of the front spindles, and fix any run-out more than 0.13".

> Sandblast each wheel and spray on a single coat of epoxy primer.

> Scuff the primer and spray on a few coats of high-build primer surfacer. Let the primer dry (shrink) thoroughly-

> Color coat the wheels with a single stage urethane high paint such as DuPont's Nasson.

> Install a set of new tubes and tires using the plastic bag technique. Use a generous amount of talcum powder inside of the tires, and a film of liquid soap on the bead of each tire.

> Get a set of hub caps. New ones generally cost about $25 each. Unlike the Model A, V8 hub caps snap into place.

>Have the wheels professionally balanced. Spin balancing is better than static balancing.

> Install the wheels using a conical washer under each lug nut.

> it may be necessary to adjust the toe-in of the front wheels.
 
Just think, there must have been a KAILLION '35 wire wheels made, to supply the needs for replacements, changeovers, trailers, Hot Rods, etc!
Bill W.
 
What is the plastic bag method of installing the tires and wheels. Do you use the powder on the tubes?

I'm looking to put new tires on my existing 16 inch wheels and if there is a way I can do it myself, is the plastic bag method one of those ways, or is it best to take it to a tire shop. Our local tire store didn't act like they do these types of wheels and said they would have to look at it first to see. That didn't raise my confidence level, as I thought they were pretty knowledgeable, versus the chain tire stores.
 
BILL WILLIAMSON said:
Just think, there must have been a KAILLION '35 wire wheels made, to supply the needs for replacements, changeovers, trailers, Hot Rods, etc!
Bill W.
Click to expand...


Have heard several times that the 1935 16" wheels were manufactured well into the 40's to be used as replacements for the older 17-21" rims. Apparently buying 16" rims and tires was usually cheaper than buying just the tires alone for the older rims.
 
Houdini said:
What is the plastic bag method of installing the tires and wheels. Do you use the powder on the tubes?
Click to expand...
You put the rim in a very thin black garbage bag. I get them at the dollar store. You won't want to use them for garbage there too thin. put the tube in the tire with enough air to just barely inflate it. Put the valve stem in the rim and start working the tire on. The bag acts like soap to make everything slippery but doesn't make your hands slippery. once the tires on pull out the bag and throw it away. It will be garbage. Then inflate the tire till the bead seats on the rim.
 
Tiny said:
You put the rim in a very thin black garbage bag. I get them at the dollar store. You won't want to use them for garbage there too thin. put the tube in the tire with enough air to just barely inflate it. Put the valve stem in the rim and start working the tire on. The bag acts like soap to make everything slippery but doesn't make your hands slippery. once the tires on pull out the bag and throw it away. It will be garbage. Then inflate the tire till the bead seats on the rim.
Click to expand...


Sprinkle baby or talcum powder on the garbage bag and it works even better! Wayne
 
Tiny, thanks for the explanation on the plastic bag method. Am I correct in assuming this works for modern 16 inch radials. Do you need tools to help it onto the rim, or will it slip over the rim by just using your hands?
 
I'm kind of a gorilla but still need to use spoons. Individual results may vary. Be prepared for some cussing and swearing. They don't just hop on. Good luck. I changed many this ay when I was lower on funds. Now I use my buddies 1940's manual machine. It's dreamy compared to by hand. Google some YouTube videos, you'll get the idea
 
Larry Jenkins said:
Well, I was kinda close. I found it. PC-11.

Waterproof Marine Grade steel 2 part epoxy. Was recommended some time ago by a Barner. Seems like it would work well for my wire wheels.

Anyone tried it?

Larry
Click to expand...
Here's response I received from PC-11..


Yes indeed PC-11 has excellent strength, better than bondo, and it's more flexible so it will never chip or crack, or more importantly has much less chance of separating from the bond. People like Bondo because it's fast, other than that PC-11 has the better characteristics across the board.
You can sand it nicely with any machine sander, but wait at least 24 hours before doing so. It needs plenty of time to cure

Scott
 
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