1935 flathead V8 Evans Coolant

TDS

TDS

Member
Hi
After having done a complete engine rebuild and having seen an extreme amount of rust in the engine internal Im thinking about using Evans Waterfree Coolant.

Does anyone have experience whith that in a stock engine setup?
 
There was a discussion about this not too long ago, search this forum, most people decided it wasn't worth it.
 
Don't do it.
Read the container carefully Evans claim to fame is the ability to work at increased temps before boiling. Something most flathead owners would rather not try. The lack of water in the Evans product automatically creates higher running temps. Straight water with a water pump lube or water and antifreeze combination is a much better choice.
The extreme rust seen during rebuild should have been removed at that time. But you can do this on your completed engiine products such as envirorust work great in cleaning out that rust. If you fill both sides of the engine and heads with envirorust and let it set a few days you will remove a lot of rust when you flush the engine with lots of water. Then add the coolant of your choice you will find most rust to be gone.
 
I filled my engine with white vineagar and let it soak for a day or two then flushed it out.
I did this three times and cleaned out a bunch of rust in the block.
Dont have the radiator attached. Vinegar was cheap four gallons for $5.
 
Strongly suggest you search on here for Evans coolant threads.
Its not good, but you need to read the threads.
Martin.
 
I did a complete rebuild of my engine, the heads were trashed the coolant destroyed the aluminum so I was interested in the Evans Waterfree Coolant. I called the co. and talked to a rep that said as long as the coolant doesn't leak it would work great but flatheads leak. I told him this was a rebuild and everything was new. Well I put it in and wow the engine started leaking everywhere tiny cracks in the head, up through the head studs out the head gaskets. I drained the Evens and filled it with water so I could find and fix all those leaks, the Evens is too expensive to let leak. Well almost all the leaks stopped just a few hoses dripped a little. I still have the Evens and will never ever put it in a flathead again. I would save your cash or
 
Thanks
I will stick to standard coolant mixture.
The engine block was cleaned professional at the workshop.
Its just because i would hate to see it packed with rust again.
 
I had water with just a wee bit of green antifreeze in a Packard 8 for over 3 weeks. Owner insisted on the Evans. It leaked at every gasket (sealed with Permatex Aviation sealant), leaked at the copper water pump seal ring, leaked through the pump shaft. I was reallt bent about it, have a "thing" about doing work twice for stupid reasons. Reworked everything and the pump shaft still leaks. Can't get it to stop either as I feel the next turn of the packing nut may crack the pump body. My hands-on professional opinion? WTF??? No reason to "fix" something that isn't broken, like a cooling system designed for glycol...?
 
We at work are/were supposed to be an agent for that crap. I've posted before my experience, just to reiterate, it's more trouble than you need. It always a fight trying to keep it in an engine that's perfectly fine with a water antifreeze mix. Doesn't fix anything. And can/does lead to localized very hot spots. It doesn't pressurise (sp?) and therefore isn't forced into pockets and displace trapped air, thus the heat in these areas go through the roof. Do we want more cracks in our flatheads?
And handling this stuff is nasty, stings like hell in a cut knuckle, which you will get after trying to tighten up the hose clips that this stuff is leaking from. And slippery! It's like ice on the floor, ans your hands and tools, means more bloody knuckles, and stings.
I refuse to work with it now, if they insist, they can insist to someone else.
Martin.
 
Maertin,

The traditional split between management and labor. Been there, done that, have the T-shirt.
 
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