1935 5 window VIN

guyrube1

Junior Member
I bought a 1935 5 window and some of the VIN numbers not legible because of rust and someone sanding the frame many years ago to repaint it. Where can I buy exact replica numbers to punch them back in and on a 35 did they use a "1" or an "I". The visible numbers match the title so I know it is right but I cant see them all and in California I know DMV will demand to see all numbers
 
Call the DMV and ask them what they want you to do. They will probably want to raise them using acid. Don't restamp or you are asking for trouble. The 1 was an I.

Charlie Stephens
 
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The correct size of a serial number stamp set is 1/8".. To duplicate an EFV8 serial number you have to have a five pointed star. Re-stamping over an existing number is very difficult at it's best.
 
I bought a 1935 5 window and some of the VIN numbers not legible because of rust and someone sanding the frame many years ago to repaint it. Where can I buy exact replica numbers to punch them back in and on a 35 did they use a "1" or an "I". The visible numbers match the title so I know it is right but I cant see them all and in California I know DMV will demand to see all numbers

Try muriatic acid, its available at any lowes or pool place
 
You're playing with fire. Those CAL officials know the score on this "numbers" stuff. If there's any question, I'd ask anonymously FIRST, 'cuz they'll catch any 'doctoring' you do and the outcome likely will not be pleasant. DD
 
Thanks for the suggestions, it is a later model flathead, but the trans might be original so I will look on the bell housing for the number. I cant believe some knuckle head almost sanded off all the numbers.
I have heard horror stories about California DMV and the VIN #'s. I guess they have to be completely visible.
 
The numbers are still there even if the surface is ground down. The impact of the punch upsets the metal below what you see on the surface. There are methods posted on both the Barn and the HAMB about how to "raise" the serial numbers. I would guess your best bet is to go through one of the third parties to title your vechile.
 
The metal being displaced by the stamp has its grain changed and hardened more than the surrounding metal so certain acids will make the numbers reappear.

Reproduction stamps are available but I have no idea how close they are to the original characters. They're way expensive too. Best to try and verify the numbers with all other means before muddying the water. There should be numbers farther to the rear of the left rail that can sometimes verify the front set but they won't have the 18- on there. The guys that stamped them at FoMoCo didn't always get a good shot at it so many times they are very hard to see. That and crusty rusties plus overzealous "restorers" over the multi decades since stamping took place doesn't help either.
 
In California the DMV doesn't do the VIN check, it's done by the CHP or a licensed independent registration service. In my area, you used to be able to drag your stuff out to the local CHP office and they'd come out and sign it off. Now, they require you to make an appointment. With a six week wait for an appointment, I opted to step up and pay a registration service. They came right to my shop and were very easy to deal with. You might consider talking with one of these services first.
 
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