1935-48 Flathead engine mounts.
- Thread starter oz40
- Start date
mercman from oz
Well-known member
I have owned these new Ford Flathead Engine Mounts for about 50 years. They do not have any markings? Would these be Genuine Ford?
Mr 42
Senior Member
live in Sweden, and use a company (www.Jetcarrier.com) that gives me an US address. That i ship the part in US to.
And if the part is on my address on Friday before 10:00, that parts are in Sweden Next Thursday fro a fair price.
You can chose Sea freight for heavier parts, takes around two months.
I am sure there is similar company that serves German to.
regarding Mac's if you order two part the sen three boxes, and that raises the price on jetcarrier to unacceptable. So no more order on Macs for me.
Regarding Rubber parts i always order from Bob Drake, even if its a bit bad it's still the best that exist.
DavidG
Well-known member
Mike,
I use both the Drake reproductions and NOS ones (which in the latter case unlike lots of NOS rubber parts, they seem to retain their original elasticity). The bolts that come with the Drake versions are the correct length for '32-'36 applications (although I use original bolts). Starting with the '37s longer bolts were used originally when this type of insulator was used for the back of the transmission on the center cross member.
Two nit picks about the Drake reproductions are that I wish they used yellow cadmium or yellow zinc plating for the steel portions of the top and bottom insulators, as original, and no upper steel washer is supplied. Originally, in addition to the large washer that the motor mount brackets rest upon there was a small, thick washer that went on top of the motor mount brackets (beneath the nut). I would also be nice if the nut and large washer supplied were cadmium plated (S7) as original rather than black oxide (S2).
I use both the Drake reproductions and NOS ones (which in the latter case unlike lots of NOS rubber parts, they seem to retain their original elasticity). The bolts that come with the Drake versions are the correct length for '32-'36 applications (although I use original bolts). Starting with the '37s longer bolts were used originally when this type of insulator was used for the back of the transmission on the center cross member.
Two nit picks about the Drake reproductions are that I wish they used yellow cadmium or yellow zinc plating for the steel portions of the top and bottom insulators, as original, and no upper steel washer is supplied. Originally, in addition to the large washer that the motor mount brackets rest upon there was a small, thick washer that went on top of the motor mount brackets (beneath the nut). I would also be nice if the nut and large washer supplied were cadmium plated (S7) as original rather than black oxide (S2).
You could still buy NOS Ford motor mount pads from your Ford dealer's parts department up to about 10 years ago. These had Ford script and were painted grey. They are far superior to anything ever reproduced. The price was crazy about $25. each but if you want to play with the best you have to pay for the best. The grey paint can be cleaned away with lacquer thinner for using on a concourse restoration. Sometimes you see these grey ones laying around at swap meets. Good luck.
V8 Bob
Well-known member
I've had very good service with the cushion mounts from Chassis Engineering Inc., which is now part of Heidts. They closely resemble stock Ford biscuits, have a SS band and are high quality, like all C.E. products. (C.E. used these on all their engine mounts) I have them in my FH '32 and BBF '40. They are still available from Heidts; #SS-0011. 
Tom's36coupe
Well-known member
Getting ready to put the engine back in and not sure what is the correct way to instal the front motor mounts. Got a new set from Macs, large rubber puck and then a smaller rubber pad. Any pictures would be most appreciated
Aarongriffey
Well-known member
Torque?
Run the nuts on with you fingers as tight as you can with two fingers, then turn them one more castle and put the cotter pin in.
I have one car that I actually put hockey pucks in. They are cheap. I’ve also used ‘55 Chevy V8 mounts.
Run the nuts on with you fingers as tight as you can with two fingers, then turn them one more castle and put the cotter pin in.
I have one car that I actually put hockey pucks in. They are cheap. I’ve also used ‘55 Chevy V8 mounts.
Aarongriffey
Well-known member
Torque?
Run the nuts on with you fingers as tight as you can with two fingers, then turn them one more castle and put the cotter pin in.
I have one car that I actually put hockey pucks in. They are cheap. I’ve also used ‘55 Chevy V8 mounts. You can usually get them at the local parts store.
And any store can order them.
Run the nuts on with you fingers as tight as you can with two fingers, then turn them one more castle and put the cotter pin in.
I have one car that I actually put hockey pucks in. They are cheap. I’ve also used ‘55 Chevy V8 mounts. You can usually get them at the local parts store.
And any store can order them.
cajunfirehawk
Senior Member
Really would be interested in seeing those, those would NEVER collapse like the rubber ones, IMHO
Tom's36coupe
Well-known member
Thank you!