1935-36 Dash Light Switch

Steve in Denver

Well-known member
I took my '36 dash light switch apart because it did not work. I have just been bypassing it so I thought I would see what is inside and was it fixable. Well, no, its not.

The little L piece near the center is/was attached to the slide mechanism to its left. It fell off and I don't see any reasonable way to reattach it.

And from what I have heard from others, correctly one would Pull the switch in order to turn it on. Why Henry thought that was a good idea we will never know.

With all of that said, before I do any research, and I have contacted Dennis Carpenter's business, is there any market for for them if I find someone who can reproduce them. Then, do we want them to be exact duplicates, "Pull to turn on" or change it to Pull to turn off.

If they cost $50 each, and I am guessing in the dark, is there a market for them? The set up cost is going to be distributed through all the switches made and I don't guess I will sell more than 100 of them.

And, yes, I know we don't drive our old Fords at night anyway, I just like everything to work.
 

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If you're thinking of reproducing Henry's switch then REPRODUCE IT, don't change anything. If you do, it's not a reproduction. Jeeeeeezzzz
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I know there are minor differences between '35-'37 switches but they are basically the same size and action. As it stands now working light switches in good condition are impossible to find. And, if you are lucky to find one you better have a deep pocket to get it. I am sure if you decided to "repo" them the sale of them would be in the hundreds.
 
The parts book has different numbers for 35-36-37, later parts books list the 37 switch as replacement, I thought from reading the 35-36 book that one year on was pushing switch, other pulling switch
The 1936 dated parts book lists 3 different switches, standard, deluxe and truck ---though many of the differences may be the knob
 
35 has opposite operation from the 36-7. The little L shaped rocker sits inside the switch on a cradle it can fall out when disassembling. The insulating material with the two electrical terminals on the rear of the switch warps over time. Placing a very small piece of insulating plastic between the two terminals to keep them straight often repairs the switch.
 
It does look like the "L" connector sits against the end plate.
 

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I believe the '35s and the 36's are different. One is pull to turn on and the other is pull to turn off. I think the 35's are pull to turn on. Jim in San Jose
 
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