Rebuilding a Steering Box and was wondering if the location of the key way, that locks the steering wheel to the steering shaft, matters? Say you are sitting in the car (behind a steering wheel that I do not have), at what "O'clock" should the key way be at? Thanks for any info. you may have...
1934 Steering Key Way?
- Thread starter 50 Flord
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deuce lover
Well-known member
Probably doesn't matter the position of that locking collar.The keyway is up where the wheel fits on shaft.
deuce lover
Well-known member
What you could do is set the worm after assy 1/2 way from lock to lock then slide the collar on and face the slot to the right .I'm thinking that the collar only goes on one way as the screws are off set.The set screw holes should be close.Regarding the slot for the light switch housing.The light switch only goes on one way with the(drain hole down).That will tell you which way the bracket attaches so the notch lines up correctly.Hope that makes sense.
Jim in Wisconsin
Senior Member
I just finished putting new seals and a new worm gear in my 33 gearbox, so I know what you're talking about. The worm gear is keyed to the shaft, so there isn't any choice in where the steering wheel ends up, except that the steering wheel has two key slots (at least mine does). You get your choice there. At least that's the way it seemed to me.
That notch lines up with a slot in the light switch housing. If you look at that it will tell you, I'm pretty sure it goes down. I had mine wrong and already had oil in the box when I noticed that.
Did you have trouble getting that seal around the output shaft? I messed up the first one and had to order another gasket set. It ain't easy - is it. Mine has been in the car full of oil for about 2 weeks and no drips so far - it used to leak out about as fast as I could pour it in. The bearing area on the worm gear was bad on mine -from not having oil in there I suppose. Getting that worm gear off and back on wasn't so easy either, it's pressed pretty tight. You have to be carefull pressing it back on - if you do that by pressing against the steering wheel end of the shaft it can bend it.
That notch lines up with a slot in the light switch housing. If you look at that it will tell you, I'm pretty sure it goes down. I had mine wrong and already had oil in the box when I noticed that.
Did you have trouble getting that seal around the output shaft? I messed up the first one and had to order another gasket set. It ain't easy - is it. Mine has been in the car full of oil for about 2 weeks and no drips so far - it used to leak out about as fast as I could pour it in. The bearing area on the worm gear was bad on mine -from not having oil in there I suppose. Getting that worm gear off and back on wasn't so easy either, it's pressed pretty tight. You have to be carefull pressing it back on - if you do that by pressing against the steering wheel end of the shaft it can bend it.
I do not have the light swt. housing to refer to so I guess I will mount the slot down and hope it is right. Yes, I have seen the two key slots in the steering wheels so I guess it will not matter! Thanks for the info. and for everyone's time! Can you tell me where to get info. on adjusting the mesh between the sector shaft and worm gear? I see the camber slotted screw at the bottom and one of the studs has a cambered sleeve on it... For gear oil, I use the John Deere Header Grease. No leaks but fluid enough to keep everything lubbed. Thanks again...
The notch goes down to keep LS in line.The box is adjusted the same way as a model A box.Get a repop A or 32-37 copy of service bulletins & it will explain it all.On my 33,I shortened the pitman arm by 1-1/2" and it made for easier steering.But,dont do this unless you know the correct way to do it & you are a good welder.I also had needle brgs & modern seal installed along with the lower plate with the tube attached that extends above the oil level.Good idea to solder the tube to lower plate to make sure of no leaks.
Jim in Wisconsin
Senior Member
Mine had that tube in there, they are a good idea. I have the service bulletin book. There are three adjustments - the end play is easy, and the other two control the engagment of the gears. The basic idea is to put the worm in the center of it's travel and just get the play out but not make it tight. It gets looser towards the ends of the swing. I replaced the worm gear and my sector was ok - I didn't mess with that stud on the bottom and just adjusted the bolt one. Seems ok now, but I haven't driven it on the road yet. (winter in Wisconsin).
Columbia - did you still have enough travel to make the wheels go stop to stop? It seems like the steer box would hit the end of it's travel and the wheels wouldn't have gone as far as they would have with the full length arm.
Columbia - did you still have enough travel to make the wheels go stop to stop? It seems like the steer box would hit the end of it's travel and the wheels wouldn't have gone as far as they would have with the full length arm.