1934 ignition lock removal
- Thread starter GEich
- Start date
The smooth one is a anti theft deal from Ford. I would remove the whole column to work on it. I drill a series of 1/16 holes across the face and use a flat tip screwdriver. Heat is often required.
If you just want the lock cylinder, you have to drill out the pin. Stop if you hit brass. I thread the hole and use a set screw afterwards.
If you just want the lock cylinder, you have to drill out the pin. Stop if you hit brass. I thread the hole and use a set screw afterwards.
Sounds like there are two 'issues' here, both addressed by Andy. If you just want the ignition lock, then the trick is to remove the pin at the bottom of it. Drilling it is difficult, because the person holding the drill most often misses the target, and egg-shapes the hole in the column drop. I think Richard (EV8G) (and maybe others) once posted his trick for removing this pin (on the old Barn). Maybe he (they) will chime in, here.
Secondly, I suppose it is obvious, the Screw at the top of the column drop, above the lock, needs to be removed. Under the screw is a spring and ball (detent for the lever). And, the lever will slip out...
As for the bolt on the left side of the column drop... If you were able to see what it is/was, before it was installed, you would see that it originally had a hex-head on it, with a severely necked-down shank, designed to break off during installation. So, you are left with what you see, "circular head with no faces"... If you are trying to get the column drop separated from the column, you can do as Andy says (create a slot for a screwdriver), or, drill the head off, use heat, or what ever. Envision what you are working on there... like a 5/16-24 allen cap screw, and take the head off.
JMO
Secondly, I suppose it is obvious, the Screw at the top of the column drop, above the lock, needs to be removed. Under the screw is a spring and ball (detent for the lever). And, the lever will slip out...
As for the bolt on the left side of the column drop... If you were able to see what it is/was, before it was installed, you would see that it originally had a hex-head on it, with a severely necked-down shank, designed to break off during installation. So, you are left with what you see, "circular head with no faces"... If you are trying to get the column drop separated from the column, you can do as Andy says (create a slot for a screwdriver), or, drill the head off, use heat, or what ever. Envision what you are working on there... like a 5/16-24 allen cap screw, and take the head off.
JMO
JM 35 Sedan
Well-known member
I have also removed that anti theft bolt on the left side of the drop by carefully drilling a hole into the center of the bolt and then using an easy out to remove the bolt. A little heat in the threaded area for that bolt would help loosen it. Don't apply so much torque that the easy out breaks off or you will have a bigger problem. Removal of that little pin that holds the lock cylinder in place can be tricky at times. You must stay on center when drilling the pin and don't drill so deep that you drill into the cylinder. Once the hole is drilled you can either tap the hole for a small machine screw or thread a small wood/sheet metal screw into the pin and use a claw hammer to pull the screw and pin out of the drop. The cylinder may still be a little tight coming out of the drop after the pin is out. I sometimes put the blade of a small screwdriver up into the pin hole and bring the lock cylinder out with a little prying action. Patience is you friend here.
I also had an anti theft bolt that held the drop to the dash on my '35's. I believe I had to use vise grip pliers to get that one loose.
I also had an anti theft bolt that held the drop to the dash on my '35's. I believe I had to use vise grip pliers to get that one loose.
Bruce Lancaster
Member Emeritus
Many Fords used one where drop was bolted to the underside of dash to further secure things...my '48 got THREE, one at clamp, two holding drop to dash. Further... NONE of them broke, The car still has three hex heads showing above the dome! I think the steering drop dude on duty at Edgewater plant on November 11, 1947 failed to eat his Wheaties that morning.
A '34 lock cylinder pin is quite small, drastically smaller than the '36-48, and will need very careful drilling.
A '34 lock cylinder pin is quite small, drastically smaller than the '36-48, and will need very careful drilling.
Regarding the column-drop bolt... cancel what I previously posted, about removing the head. Bad, incorrect advise - case of CRS. Do as the others have posted to remove it.
Pin... According to the 'green' parts book, the (3729 or 3743) pin is .25 or .30-in long (could be .45 long, if you have the 41-48 pin) - might be useful info for how far to drill.
Also, the diameter is listed at 5/32. I have seen it posted here (old Barn) in the past, that the 34 pin is smaller in dia, as Bruce has posted above. I'm unsure about this dia, because mine could have been changed to the later (5/16) dia, and the parts book might have replaced the earlier, smaller dia ???? Just take a look at what you have.
Here's a pict of the 3731 bolt, with hex still attached.
Pin... According to the 'green' parts book, the (3729 or 3743) pin is .25 or .30-in long (could be .45 long, if you have the 41-48 pin) - might be useful info for how far to drill.
Also, the diameter is listed at 5/32. I have seen it posted here (old Barn) in the past, that the 34 pin is smaller in dia, as Bruce has posted above. I'm unsure about this dia, because mine could have been changed to the later (5/16) dia, and the parts book might have replaced the earlier, smaller dia ???? Just take a look at what you have.
Here's a pict of the 3731 bolt, with hex still attached.
Attachments
33 roadster
Member
I take a 3/8 nut and mig weld it on to the anti thelf bolt and with a little heat around the bolt area they come out fairly easy...........Larry
oldsledz
Junior Member
I am taking my 34 column apart for cleaning and painting and I have removed the screw, and spring from the top and removed the pin that turns the switch on and off, but the cylinder does not come out. I don't want to force it. Is it still connected to the key switch?? Last question is how does the key switch come out?? I think I have taken all the pieces off to remove the cylinder. Help!!