1934 Fuel Line Problem

It has screws holding it in and it needs to be scraped, cleaned and chaecked. It has lots of little vents and passages. You need to refer to the service bulletins to understand how it works.
 
I will be pulling my gas tank for a cleaning at a local radiator shop. The tank is in pretty good shape with no holes at all, just some black junk adhered to the inside of it. Should I just have it cleaned or should I also coat the inside with something? It seems to me that the new gasoline already has 10% ethanol which should keep the rust at bay and the ethanol might eventually break down whatever coating is applied. Any thoughts?
 
Its all opinions...Right?
Only you can really answer that question. How much are you gonna be driving the car? How long will it sit inactive??? How much fuel do you plan on keeping in the tank while it sits? If I were you I'd look around and find ethanol FREE gas, there are several stations here in FLA carrying it. Judging by the fact that your in Fishkill NY I would assume its gonna sit several months in the winter? There for, I would maybe look at coating it. If you keep your fuel tank full there is less opportunity for moisture to build up. Plus stabil and or other fuel stabilizer's will help and a cap or so of MMO every fill up will also do you good and help you too.
 
I dropped off the tank to a local radiator shop and had them clean it out. After I spent $162 to have it cleaned the owner recommended that I install an inline filter. He explained to me that NYS doesn't allow boiling out of tanks anymore and he did the best job he could legally do. Now I know why - when I got home I figured I'd give it a final rinse with a gallon of acetone. I got so much more junk out of it that I now will have to use Lestoil and a pressure washer to do the job again. After that I will use Metal Rescue to address any rust issues. I will then have to buy another gallon of acetone to do a final rinse. Next time - I'll do the job myself and save myself a weeks worth of waiting time and money.
 
Doug 845 said:
I will be pulling my gas tank for a cleaning at a local radiator shop. The tank is in pretty good shape with no holes at all, just some black junk adhered to the inside of it. Should I just have it cleaned or should I also coat the inside with something? It seems to me that the new gasoline already has 10% ethanol which should keep the rust at bay and the ethanol might eventually break down whatever coating is applied. Any thoughts?
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Let the radiator shop decide if it needs a coating inside. The 10% ethanol ATTRACTS water and causes rust and sender problems, it can also eat the thin brass float. Find non ethanol gas and save future problems with other parts also. G.M.
 
Tim Brown said:
There are really no shortcuts to doing this right the first time. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank, pull the tank and have it professionally cleaned at a radiator shop. Verify that the sending unit is clean and working. Replace the tank and replace the complete fuel line. After 30 years its ready. My 2 cents...
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Do they even do this any more?? I had a tank that had "Tank Sealer" in it and had separated from the tank over time. Few years ago I tried all over town and even a few shops on line. EPA put them out of business in every shop I contacted. Ended up scrapping the tank.
 
Doug 845 said:
I dropped off the tank to a local radiator shop and had them clean it out. After I spent $162 to have it cleaned the owner recommended that I install an inline filter. He explained to me that NYS doesn't allow boiling out of tanks anymore and he did the best job he could legally do. Now I know why - when I got home I figured I'd give it a final rinse with a gallon of acetone. I got so much more junk out of it that I now will have to use Lestoil and a pressure washer to do the job again. After that I will use Metal Rescue to address any rust issues. I will then have to buy another gallon of acetone to do a final rinse. Next time - I'll do the job myself and save myself a weeks worth of waiting time and money.
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Denatured alcohol is the only thing that cuts varnish. G.M.
 
I got the Ford running after I installed the tank. Thanks to all of the replies - I finally managed to complete the job. I learned a couple things along the way. One was that there is a small rectangular access panel in the rear floor area that can be removed with one screw that allows anyone to remove the sending unit without having to remove the tank. The second thing I learned was that if you have to remove the tank you only have to remove the passenger side gusset panel to access the forward most bolt.
 
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